When to plant trees

Oklahunter

Yearling... With promise
I gave red oak and Osage orange trees in containers. When should I plant them in the ground? Should I do it now or wait till they bloom? Do freezing temps hurt after I plant? I’m really a novice at this. Thanks in advance!!
 
I would wait until after the last freeze date for your area has passed.
 
I gave red oak and Osage orange trees in containers. When should I plant them in the ground? Should I do it now or wait till they bloom? Do freezing temps hurt after I plant? I’m really a novice at this. Thanks in advance!!
Plant them anytime they are dormant and you can dig a hole. Containerized trees can have circling and j-hooking roots. You'll need to prune any of these. As long as the tree is dormant, you want to get it in the ground as soon as practical. Freezing temps won't hurt a dormant tree. The root system needs as much time as possible to adapt.
 
I agree with Jack, on if they are dormant. If they are not dormant, and they are actively growing, wait until you wont get another frost, then plant it, and keep it watered, or wait until fall when they go dormant again.

Mind you, I know nothing about orange trees.
 
Always make sure you water them in sufficiently when you plant them (dry air pockets will dry roots quickly and seriously injure or kill the tree). Then, water appropriately during the first year.
 
I didn’t realize OP had dormant trees. I guess reading is fundamental
 
I plant them any time the ground isn't frozen
 
I wouldn’t plant the hedge trees at all


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I wouldn’t plant the hedge trees at all


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With my high ph soil (7.5) I don’t have a lot of options.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I’ll start planting them this week.
 
Okla ... I assume you may be in OK; if so, have you had soil tests for you land? The reason I ask is 60% of OK soil tests have a ph of 6.5 or less (https://extension.okstate.edu/fact-sheets/oklahoma-agricultural-soil-test-summary-2014-2017.html) / only 15% of OK soil tests had a ph > than 7.5. You could probably plant swamp white oaks since they are thought to be able to grow in soils with only slightly acidic soils - up to 6.5 - I believe a ph of 7 is considered neutral). Planting them in full sun in reasonably decent soils soils might provide an environment conducive to good growth. I don't believe it would be super expensive to amend the soil (sulfur / mulched oak leaves, acid-loving plant fertilizers, pine needle mulch, etc) around 8-10 newly established young SWQ trees (seedlings or direct seeded swo acorns). Just a thought ... good luck.
 
I guess I’m in the 15%. Ha! I’ve done soil tests to get my PH. It varies from 7.5-8.0. I am planting white and red oak as well as the Osage that are supposed to do ok in my soil. I am adding sulphur a little at a time to lower the PH. But can’t afford to do that indefinitely. Thanks for your reply.
 
Bur and chinkapin oaks should be able to take that soil, too.
 
I have successfully planted young small trees in the summer. You have to shade them. IF you plant in the fall, make sure you water them. They can dry out.

Up in NY, if it doesn't rain after about 5 or 6 days, I water them. Mulching really helps with weeds n moisture retention. When I water I usually put some miracle grow in the water. MAybe 1/2 advertised strength.

If possible, get some agriform tablets. Also, try not to plant them level to the ground. Plant them a little hilly. Sometimes loose soil in the hard existing soil can keep them too wet. It is very common for landscaping contractors to place th shrub / tree on the ground and build a hill of soil around the planting.

My spring planting rows of trees start in the fall. I rototill a straight line where the trees will be, amend the soil with some lime and fertilizer, add some clover seed, and then roll it back it with my truck tire. They say not to mess with the soil, but this method has time for the soil to settle down and I compact it back in. I also roundup about 5ft on each side and clover it. I do mostly bareroot. I also save cardboard squares about 18 inches and use them as a mulch base. Keeps the weeds out. I put some sort of mulch over the top, sometimes composted leaf matter, sometime landscaping mulch.

Pat the soil in good, you wont want any air pockets in the rootball. I soften a bit of the soil on the base, pat the sides as I go up. When about 2/3's full of soil, I water it, put a bit more soil to level it out, then water again. I poke a hole about 2 or 3 inches below the base of the rootball and put a couple agriform tablets in there.
 
Appreciate the information!
 
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