Table of Rootstock info

Bowsnbucks

5 year old buck +
Here is a link to a table of many rootstock varieties for apples and crabs. It lists the resistances to various diseases and wooly apple aphids, cold hardiness, resistance to replant shock / disease, and other attributes. www.goodfruit.com/wp-content/uploads/appleRootstock-Feb12016WebPullout.pdf

When the list of headings comes up, click the heading that says "Which rootstock should you grow with ?" It'll have the same link address under the heading as the one above.
 
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For those of you planning on grafting rootstocks this spring; here's and article by Steve Silk (Fine Gardening 76, pp. 80) on making your own root growth hormone.
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Anyone who has ever tried to root willow cuttings has already discovered how ridiculously easy they are to propagate. Take a cutting in early spring, put it in a glass of water, and in a few days the pale tendrils of new roots appear. Soon the cutting will be ready for potting up and, eventually, a new home in the garden. Without a doubt, these are among the easiest of woody plants to propagate. And they do, in fact, make it easier to propagate cuttings of other plants, including tender perennials like plectranthus and coleus, and shrubs such as daphne, spirea, and weigela.

The reason is that willow cuttings secrete a kind of magic rooting compound—specifically a hormone called auxin—that stimulates spring growth and encourages the development of roots. This hormone is most concentrated in the tips of branches showing new leaves in early spring. It also happens to be water-soluble, so any willow cuttings in a container of water are literally enriching that water with a substance that promotes root growth. Thus, cuttings of other plants in the same vessel are drawing in the willow’s auxin and responding to it by striking roots. Some rooting powders use artificially made auxin as the active ingredient.

For the best results when using willow to help start cuttings, make your own auxin-rich concoction by gathering a handful of willow branch tips, then chopping them into pieces an inch or so long or mashing them with a hammer. Stuff as many pieces as you can into a small container, add water to cover, and steep for at least 24 hours to make a sort of auxin tea. Strain the liquid and use it to soak cuttings overnight. Cuttings should be inserted into the liquid deeply enough so that it covers their stems up to about the first set of leaves. After soaking, stick the cuttings in a soilless medium. I like to use a mix of half coarse sand and half peat. Then place the pot and cuttings inside a plastic bag, making sure the plastic does not touch any leaves, and set it in a protected spot that’s bright but not sunny. Roots should form within a few weeks. While the roots are developing, you can use the willow tea to water the cuttings.

Willows can be a real boon for gardeners who want to learn more about the joys of propagating their own plants. By planting a few choice willows, such as pussy willow (Salix discolor) and black pussy willow (Salix gracilistyla var. melanostachys), you can be assured of a good source of auxin and a bountiful supply of attractive cuttings to force indoors. Cuttings of both willows can often be found at florist shops in early spring.

From Fine Gardening 76, pp. 80; Steve Silk
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Rooting Compound Recipe


Step1 - Gather a handful of chopstick-size willow twigs. Fresh branches work best; avoid deadfall. Any variety of willow (salix) will work since they all contain the natural chemical IBA (indolebutyric acid) - a natural plant growth regulator.

Step2 - Chop the willow stems into 3-4 inch pieces with clippers or a cleaver. You should have about 2 cups of clippings to make a one gallon batch of willow bark rooting hormone.

Step3 - Place the chopped willow pieces in a large container and cover with 1 gallon of boiling water.

Step4 - Allow the prepared willow bark tea to stand overnight. The longer it steeps, the more IBA will be released into the water.

Step5 - Store the willow bark rooting hormone in the refrigerator in a sealed container. Label the container.

Step6 - Soak tip cuttings into the willow bark rooting hormone overnight prior to planting in soil. The IBA will infuse into the bark and stems encouraging rooting and inhibiting fungus, bacteria and viral disease.
 
These are handy rootstock comparisons Bows, thanks. In the first one, the M.111 is conspicuously absent. I would think the M.111 is far more common that some other ones they do include. Oh well, the second one does include the M.111.
 
Both are written for commercial growers. The first really is for high density washington state orchards where they have no use for MM111. They would only use B118 for a low vigor variety where B118 could be kept small enough and produce fruit early enough to be economical. They need more dwarfing trees come into production fast.
 
If I stumble onto some item that may be of some help on here - I just post it. I didn't know what Chickenlittle knows about the commercial grower focus, but I just threw it on here for whatever help it may be for those looking to learn about more rootstocks varieties. Thanks Chicken - for the follow-up. What you said makes sense. :emoji_thumbsup:

I know extremely little about dwarfing rootstocks, because we need big trees at camp. So I pay no attention to any of the dwarfing rootstocks - can't use 'em !!
 
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