Spray for Ground around Tree with Residual

CAS_HNTR

5 year old buck +
Looking for a spray or some type of herbicide to apply around my orchard trees and also some oaks I have planted here and there. I usually spay gly or 2-4 or combination but it weeds grow back by fall and I would rather not have to spray again and again.

Something with a residual would be great!
 
For established fruit trees/shrubs, Paul Knox( LickCreek,Doubletree) used:
1 qt Simazine,1qt Prowl, 1 qt Crop oil, 8 oz clethodim in a backpack sprayer

For established oaks/conifers , he recommended the above plus 1oz Oust

bill
 
^^^ above is just what I've been doing, except with atrazine. I need to get better at spraying an additional 3' around the cages to make it easy and fast when mowing with a 15' bushhog
 
^^^ above is just what I've been doing, except with atrazine. I need to get better at spraying an additional 3' around the cages to make it easy and fast when mowing with a 15' bushhog

Funny you mention that

I have a junkpile of mangled cages from bush hog encounters..........

bill
 
For established fruit trees/shrubs, Paul Knox( LickCreek,Doubletree) used:
1 qt Simazine,1qt Prowl, 1 qt Crop oil, 8 oz clethodim in a backpack sprayer

For established oaks/conifers , he recommended the above plus 1oz Oust

bill
Are 5 year old fruit trees “established”?
 
Another option Cassaron granular ,, apply spring or fall will kill existing weeds including quack grass and give you a great residual will work on all trees and labeled that way
 
Another option Cassaron granular ,, apply spring or fall will kill existing weeds including quack grass and give you a great residual will work on all trees and labeled that way
I saw some of the granular options when I was googling and wondered about those. Is there any plus vs minus of the granular? Seems like it would be less hastle to apply vs mixing and spraying and cleaning. Also maybe less risk of damage to tree?
 
 
I saw some of the granular options when I was googling and wondered about those. Is there any plus vs minus of the granular? Seems like it would be less hastle to apply vs mixing and spraying and cleaning. Also maybe less risk of damage to tree?
We have used casaron alot try to avoid it on first year trees , after that has been great ,, for good quack control soil temp should be 50 degrees or less but no frost
 
For the Carason, do you need to kill all vegetation first then apply to bare ground or will it also kill active plants (seems like it won't as a pre-emergent).

Normally I have some 'junk' growing by end of summer that is a hot mess about April, which is when I spray with gly/2-4D.

But, if I could sprinkle this stuff early in the year and wipe it all out plus future growth, that would be great!
 
For the Carason, do you need to kill all vegetation first then apply to bare ground or will it also kill active plants (seems like it won't as a pre-emergent).

Normally I have some 'junk' growing by end of summer that is a hot mess about April, which is when I spray with gly/2-4D.

But, if I could sprinkle this stuff early in the year and wipe it all out plus future growth, that would be great!
it will do both contact and pre ,, after application perennial weeds from last season will die , and new ones will not sprout only works on woody plants like trees , raspberries , blueberries ect ,, it was explained to me it forms a layer of protection new seedlings cant come thru but above tree roots ,,, have never seen a problem on trees ,, it is labeled for raspberries and it will affect them if used year after year , they have shallow roots ,, not a cure all but will clean up some stuff we dont use gly around our trees it has been implicated that gly will sneak thru the bark and not kill but take out potential even slowly holding back vigor and or fruit
 
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