Shrub id

marlin

Yearling... With promise
Mid Mi. Mulberry ? Thanks.
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Looks like red mulberry to me.
 
Sorry if I’m hijacking your thread for a minute but I have a similar mulberry question.

I’m getting pretty good and determining mulberry at a glance. Well getting there I’m obviously asking for confirmation.

I’m not sure of this one. It has characteristics of mulberry including half of a rounded leaf and half that has a lobe. it’s outer most leaves are all rounded. Alternating leaves on the stem. Some of the younger leaves just lack that mulberry rounded look leaves are much sharper. Just A27B32B8-704F-400D-BBDD-468A32845793.jpegA2E00140-613A-4873-97A9-AE65F50D1F10.jpeg7205737E-9EF3-4448-ADC0-872B670D3406.jpeg20B6F84B-18C0-4DC9-BE21-C73D80F7A5ED.jpeg22A4529F-EFB6-45BA-9224-86C80BD3AFB5.pngmake me question if it is mulberry.

Obviously no fruiting yet.

Any input is appreciated
 
Marlin's mulberry above looks like a pure White (Morus Alba) or almost a pure White.

Skelly's mulberry above looks like a pure Red (Morus Rubra) or almost a pure Red.

Those pictures are an excellent comparison on some of the things I look for to differentiate white and red.

Some things to understand about mulberries:
  • Red mulberry fruit can range from deep red to dark purple to almost black.
  • White mulberry fruit can be white but usually isn't. It can range from white to pink to red to almost black.
  • Red is the native and White was brought to this country in hopes of establishing a silkworm industry. In some places it is invasive, but in other places it isn't.
  • Either species can have excellent fruit.
  • Pure reds have a sandpaper type feeling on the bottom of the leaves. The leaves are also a duller color. Pure reds have larger leaves than pure white, but both species can have polymorphic leaves.
  • The leaves and bark are the best way to tell them apart. However, the hybridize easily and there are probably more hybrids out there than pure in most places. In my area we see few whites and many pure reds. The Illinois Everbearing in my yard has leaves more the size and shape of a pure red but has the color and luster of a pure white. It is believed by experts that it is a true cross. The fruits are large, sweet and deep black when ripe.
 
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Marlin's mulberry above looks like a pure White (Morus Alba) or almost a pure White.

Shelly's mulberry above looks like a pure Red (Morus Rubra) or almost a pure Red.

Those pictures are an excellent comparison on some of the things I look for to differentiate white and red.

Some things to understand about mulberries:
  • Red mulberry fruit can range from deep red to dark purple to almost black.
  • White mulberry fruit can be white but usually isn't. It can range from white to pink to red to almost black.
  • Red is the native and White was brought to this country in hopes of establishing a silkworm industry. In some places it is invasive, but in other places it isn't.
  • Either species can have excellent fruit.
  • Pure reds have a sandpaper type feeling on the bottom of the leaves. The leaves are also a duller color. Pure reds have larger leaves than pure white, but both species can have polymorphic leaves.
  • The leaves and bark are the best way to tell them apart. However, the hybridize easily and there are probably more hybrids out there than pure in most places. In my area we see few whites and many pure reds. The Illinois Everbearing in my yard has leaves more the size and shape of a pure red but has the color and luster of a pure white. It is believed by experts that it is a true cross. The fruits are large, sweet and deep black when ripe.
Great information and clarification.

I have some clippings that I am propagating that have more of the white characteristics. It will be great to have a little variety.

Thanks
 
Really good pix, Marlin and Skelly. They show the difference between the 2.
 
Thanks for info Native
 
Great information and clarification.

I have some clippings that I am propagating that have more of the white characteristics. It will be great to have a little variety.

Thanks

Any luck propagating cuttings? I just took cuttings from some young mulberry trees I planted last year. They are Black Beauty and Persian. I understand that some mulberries are easy to root from cuttings and others almost never root. I don't know much about these two varieties.

I built a mister and Mulberries are the thing I'm starting with in it: http://www.habitat-talk.com/index.php?threads/starting-trees-from-green-cuttings-building-a-mister.9311/

I used 3 parts sand, 1 part perlite, and 1 part peat for a mix. I heard that there is something about having a high sand content that promotes rooting. I applied rooting hormone #1 and removed most of each leaf.

Does anyone have anything to say about Black Beauty or Persian? One last general question... Are mulberry trees ubiquitous enough in central VA that I don't need to worry about having a male tree for pollination?

Thanks,

Jack
 
Any luck propagating cuttings? I just took cuttings from some young mulberry trees I planted last year. They are Black Beauty and Persian. I understand that some mulberries are easy to root from cuttings and others almost never root. I don't know much about these two varieties.

I built a mister and Mulberries are the thing I'm starting with in it: http://www.habitat-talk.com/index.php?threads/starting-trees-from-green-cuttings-building-a-mister.9311/

I used 3 parts sand, 1 part perlite, and 1 part peat for a mix. I heard that there is something about having a high sand content that promotes rooting. I applied rooting hormone #1 and removed most of each leaf.

Does anyone have anything to say about Black Beauty or Persian? One last general question... Are mulberry trees ubiquitous enough in central VA that I don't need to worry about having a male tree for pollination?

Thanks,

Jack

I decided to try multiple testing this year. I tried different size cuttings (6” up to 18” long and different calipers) and different soils.

My most successful combination was 8” cuttings 3/8 caliper in 1/3 vermiculite peatmoss and potting soil (this was the lightest of the combos). I wish I had used sand. I watched and read about the advantages of using sand iafter I was done planting. All were on my deck which has filtered sun with 3-4 hrs of direct afternoon sun.

The videos I watched started the cuttings in 100% sand.

I had all 24 cuttings push out growth but only 3 have started growing new stems with growth. Below image is my best growth so far.
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Most of the cuttings that put on some growth that I pulled to investigate had very little root growth some had zero. I think they pushed growth because moisture was coming up cambrium layer. I think the cuttings just struggled to establish new roots in the soil combinations with more potting soil (those that had more bark or larger materials in the mix).

E07CC865-B4C5-45C8-95E1-33A2BF27D6BA.jpegAE8A7206-3DE6-4A6C-A84A-6C16A7909225.jpeg

I believe the addition of the sand, your controlled environment, and your misting system is going to give a great success rate.
 
Interesting. You are using all dormant cuttings. In my case I used all green cuttings.
 
Yes. Just before leaf out.
 
I will second the ....."Can become invasive" comment! I am not sure which I have or if it's some cross but in some areas they will take over if given the chance. You have a hard time finding some and you want some....come get them. You can have as many as your willing to dig up!
 
Quite a bit harder to find here. I recently found a younger tree and then a couple of small ones so all together I’ve located 4.

Went out to my garden this afternoon and happened to walk by one of them and noticed one of them got trimmed up by a deer.

I’m happy with gaining another forage but I get if it becomes invasive. Kind of like honeysuckle.
 
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