School Me On The 3p606NT

[PrairieShadow]

My new 3p606nt should be here in about a month. Give me the do's and don'ts of the initial set up and any tips or tricks.

 

[Bill]

Mines a pull type.

I've found the seed settings in the book are very accurate.
Keep notes of what settings you actually used. Including depth settings. (not sure how that is done on a 3p) for reference the next time you're going to plant the same thing.

don't plant into muddy ground. it will plug the seed tubes and that's a PITA.

 

[Nightvision]

While I don’t own one I can say make sure you clean out the seed before you put it up for the year.

 

[swat1018]

Buy a hard-bound journal and a couple ink pens, put them in the box with the rate book. Note what the acre meter says when you start and finish, how much of each seed you used, and the transmission and rate settings. You will remember the good years/plots and be able to recreate them. As compelling as it is to go a little early, make sure it's dry enough that the seed trench made by the openers doesn't glaze over from being too wet.

When you set it up, drop the drill in the yard or in a field and run it 10 yards or so. Get off and put a level on the lid and get it level using your top link. When you first start using it watch the drive wheel and chain as you plant, if it skips and stops, at all, it's an issue. It seems most of them come with the drive wheel set to high causing it to lose contact with the ground and stop planting. I fought it a bit, before I moved the wheel down a couple notches, never been a problem since.

They're really pretty simple, and like Bill said, the seed charts have been remarkably accurate for me too.

What tractor you pulling it with? Use caution around hills when you have it raised up, it's a heavy piece of equipment and it throws you around some if it gets to swinging.

 

[Foggy47]

Buy a hard-bound journal and a couple ink pens, put them in the box with the rate book. Note what the acre meter says when you start and finish, how much of each seed you used, and the transmission and rate settings. You will remember the good years/plots and be able to recreate them. As compelling as it is to go a little early, make sure it's dry enough that the seed trench made by the openers doesn't glaze over from being too wet.

When you set it up, drop the drill in the yard or in a field and run it 10 yards or so. Get off and put a level on the lid and get it level using your top link. When you first start using it watch the drive wheel and chain as you plant, if it skips and stops, at all, it's an issue. It seems most of them come with the drive wheel set to high causing it to lose contact with the ground and stop planting. I fought it a bit, before I moved the wheel down a couple notches, never been a problem since.

They're really pretty simple, and like Bill said, the seed charts have been remarkably accurate for me too.

What tractor you pulling it with? Use caution around hills when you have it raised up, it's a heavy piece of equipment and it throws you around some if it gets to swinging.

I zip tied an inexpensive 2 foot level to the frame of my drill (a Saya 505) and use my hydraulic top link to make fine adjustments in depth. It's then easy to see the small changes in the seed trench when adjusting the top link. One more variable put to rest.

Aso, buy an inexpensive scale that weighs in grams and lbs. to calibrate your seed drop. Amazon has em for about $10