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Rootmaker process for growing oaks from Acorns

Wind Gypsy

Wind Gypsy

5 year old buck +
I'm looking to speed up my learning curve here on growing oaks from acorns with rootmakers.

For planting in zone 4, what rootmaker products would you use and with what timing sequence?
 
 
Wind Gypsy said:
I'm looking to speed up my learning curve here on growing oaks from acorns with rootmakers.

For planting in zone 4, what rootmaker products would you use and with what timing sequence?
Click to expand...

Growing oaks is not much different than chestnuts except that some don't need cold stratified. You can search some of my rootmaker threads. In general, 18s are good for 12 to 16 weeks. I like to go to 1 gal from there and then 3 gal. If you are not in the south, you can get a jump on things by starting them indoors under shop lights and then acclimating them to the outdoors carefully when you transplant to 1 gal. I like the Rootbuilder 2 containers for easies use and planting. In my area, I can do a second transplant to 3 gal in one of these extended growing seasons, but that will depend on your area. Overwinter them if necessary and don't plant them in the field until the roots have filled 3 gal RB2s.

Here is a chestnut thread to get you started, but I've grown lots of tree species in this container system: https://habitat-talk.com/index.php?...h-rootmakers-transfered-from-qdma-forum.5556/

If you search my posts for rootmaker or root pruning, you will find a number of threads with details.

Thanks,

Jack
 
yoderjac said:
Growing oaks is not much different than chestnuts except that some don't need cold stratified. You can search some of my rootmaker threads. In general, 18s are good for 12 to 16 weeks. I like to go to 1 gal from there and then 3 gal. If you are not in the south, you can get a jump on things by starting them indoors under shop lights and then acclimating them to the outdoors carefully when you transplant to 1 gal. I like the Rootbuilder 2 containers for easies use and planting. In my area, I can do a second transplant to 3 gal in one of these extended growing seasons, but that will depend on your area. Overwinter them if necessary and don't plant them in the field until the roots have filled 3 gal RB2s.

Here is a chestnut thread to get you started, but I've grown lots of tree species in this container system: https://habitat-talk.com/index.php?...h-rootmakers-transfered-from-qdma-forum.5556/

If you search my posts for rootmaker or root pruning, you will find a number of threads with details.

Thanks,

Jack
Click to expand...

Is the thought that you're building a better root structure by keeping them in a container up to the 3 gal than they'd achieve if you just planted them in the ground form an 18?

I'm not sure what you mean by overwintering, bringing 3 gallon containers inside or burying them outside?
 
I've grown at least a couple hundred oaks from acorns Wind Gypsy. Some I have just direct seeded where I intend for them to remain throughout their lives but most have been started in Rootmaker 18 Cells. I will post links with a lot of photos which have been posted on the Michigan Sportsman Forum over the past few years but here are a few recents.

I have some forum members from lower Michigan who will collect acorns from some very prolific English Oaks which grow on the Michigan State University campus in the fall. I put them in zip lock baggies with a damp paper towel in the barn fridge over winter and start them in the spring. You can see these had all developed radicals by spring and are raring to go...


IMG_7738.jpeg

Don't even know what kind of oak these came from but I was down in the Detroit area last fall for a wedding and found these under an oak on Belle Isle...
IMG_7739.jpeg

This should give you an idea of what kind of root growth you can expect in the rootmakes cells - Less than 5 weeks after I potted them.
DSC04027.jpeg

I didn't have time to get too involved this year so I only potted about 50 or so. Sometimes I start them in the barn early on but mostly I just wait until spring and start them outside. I normally just push the acorns into the top of the soil and leave them exposed like you would see in the wild. I have always had near 100% germination like this. This year - I put them out in my wife's garden on day only thinking they would be somewhat protected from acorn robbing critters but something got into them the very first day and stole 7 or 8 of my acorns so I put some hardware cloth over them to protect them and completely buried the acorns. I started these (late) on May 24th and 14 days later I had 19 of them sprout. 2 days later (today) I have 30 sprouts so I think I will be in good shape.
IMG_8208.jpg

You can see the little devils if you zoom in...
IMG_8209.jpg

If I have time in the fall I will plant them out on the farm and tube them but often I just transplant them to one of my wife's raised beds in the garden and keep them there for the winter. You do not want to leave them in pots outside during winter up here as they will freeze out and you will lose a good portion of them. I am transplanting and tubing these as we speak.
IMG_8210.jpg

I purchased a lot of 4' tubes but if I had it to do over again I would go with 5 footers.
IMG_4507.jpeg

When the come out of the tubes I have to get them caged right away or the deer will browse the tops off of them...
IMG_4878.jpeg

Caging is a major expense and a lot of work so if you can put 5' tubes over them and then maybe pull the tubes up some more when they emerge you may be able to avoid having th cage them.
IMG_5666.jpeg

After they come out of the cages I will often go out in the fall and wrap used tubes around them to avoid damage from rutting bucks. I remove them in the spring.
IMG_2167.JPG


Oaks in the UP

Any Bur Oak Experts?

How are your acorns doing?

MSU English oaks

That should be enough to get you started W G. Best of luck with your newest project.
 
Very helpful @Wild Thing

Say i got some acorns sprouted from planting about a month ago, is it too early to put a tube on em if they are in their final location and only say 6" tall?
 
Not at all. Get tubes over them and keep them watered. Next spring go out and pull the tubes to clean out the first year leaves….start removing lower branches….replace the tubes…..rinse and repeat.
 
Last edited:
Wind Gypsy said:
Is the thought that you're building a better root structure by keeping them in a container up to the 3 gal than they'd achieve if you just planted them in the ground form an 18?

I'm not sure what you mean by overwintering, bringing 3 gallon containers inside or burying them outside?
Click to expand...

A tap root is a trade-off that a tree makes. To ensure that it gets sufficient water to survive, it starts by putting a lot of energy into the tap root and there is little branching. Trees uptake nutrients and water based on the number of fine terminal roots, but if those fine terminal roots can't reach water, the tree dies. The top few inches of soil often dry out before a tree can be established, so it doesn't matter how many fine terminal roots a tree has if they can't reach the water. By putting energy into the terminal root, the tree sacrifices both top growth and root branching, but it survives.

When we use a root pruning system, we are changing the balance of that tradeoff. When the tap root is air pruned, it causes root branching, mostly in the first 4" above the prune. Since the tap root is terminated, the tree puts its energy into root branching (more fine terminal roots) and more top growth. More top growth means more photosynthesis which means more energy production and more terminal roots means more water and nutrients (provided they can be reached).

So, when we decided to use a root pruning container system, we commit to making sure the rootball can reach the needed water and nutrients. By the time the root system of a tree has filled a 1 gal RB2, it can be transplanted, IF it has sufficient water that it can reach. In some climates (I'm borderline) the soil will not dry out deep enough to kill the tree, but it may be limited. That is why many planted from a 1 gal will survive but few will thrive in my area. Keep in mind, I provide no supplemental water to trees in the field. By the time a tree's root ball has filled a 3 gal RB2, it has plenty of access to water in my climate. If I were in a more arid region, I would direct seed.

You can get much faster tree development using a root pruning container system, but you have to use it properly and understand the concepts. That thread I linked in the previous post shows an example. There is no free ride. That fast development comes at the cost of caring for the trees for a season or two depending on your location and making sure the tree does not need to "insurance policy" of a tap root.

By overwintering, I mean keeping the tree alive over the winter in a container so you can care for it for a second growing season. How you over winter containerized trees will depend on location. I'm far enough south that I simply sealed off a room in my basement and open a window. In some locations you can simply put them along side a warm building and pile straw on them. In some place you may need to dig holes in the ground and cover them with soil. Once again, it is understanding the concept and applying it to your situation. You want to tops to stay dormant all winter. Provided you have correct trees for your zone, they can be completely exposed. The roots, however need to be kept warm enough they at they don't freeze hard. Once dormant, the trees will use little water over the winter but they will use some. If you overwinter them outdoors, they usually get enough moisture. If you do it indoors, they do need watered occasionally.

Thanks,

Jack
 
yoderjac said:
A tap root is a trade-off that a tree makes. To ensure that it gets sufficient water to survive, it starts by putting a lot of energy into the tap root and there is little branching. Trees uptake nutrients and water based on the number of fine terminal roots, but if those fine terminal roots can't reach water, the tree dies. The top few inches of soil often dry out before a tree can be established, so it doesn't matter how many fine terminal roots a tree has if they can't reach the water. By putting energy into the terminal root, the tree sacrifices both top growth and root branching, but it survives.

When we use a root pruning system, we are changing the balance of that tradeoff. When the tap root is air pruned, it causes root branching, mostly in the first 4" above the prune. Since the tap root is terminated, the tree puts its energy into root branching (more fine terminal roots) and more top growth. More top growth means more photosynthesis which means more energy production and more terminal roots means more water and nutrients (provided they can be reached).

So, when we decided to use a root pruning container system, we commit to making sure the rootball can reach the needed water and nutrients. By the time the root system of a tree has filled a 1 gal RB2, it can be transplanted, IF it has sufficient water that it can reach. In some climates (I'm borderline) the soil will not dry out deep enough to kill the tree, but it may be limited. That is why many planted from a 1 gal will survive but few will thrive in my area. Keep in mind, I provide no supplemental water to trees in the field. By the time a tree's root ball has filled a 3 gal RB2, it has plenty of access to water in my climate. If I were in a more arid region, I would direct seed.

You can get much faster tree development using a root pruning container system, but you have to use it properly and understand the concepts. That thread I linked in the previous post shows an example. There is no free ride. That fast development comes at the cost of caring for the trees for a season or two depending on your location and making sure the tree does not need to "insurance policy" of a tap root.

By overwintering, I mean keeping the tree alive over the winter in a container so you can care for it for a second growing season. How you over winter containerized trees will depend on location. I'm far enough south that I simply sealed off a room in my basement and open a window. In some locations you can simply put them along side a warm building and pile straw on them. In some place you may need to dig holes in the ground and cover them with soil. Once again, it is understanding the concept and applying it to your situation. You want to tops to stay dormant all winter. Provided you have correct trees for your zone, they can be completely exposed. The roots, however need to be kept warm enough they at they don't freeze hard. Once dormant, the trees will use little water over the winter but they will use some. If you overwinter them outdoors, they usually get enough moisture. If you do it indoors, they do need watered occasionally.

Thanks,

Jack
Click to expand...

Thank you for the detailed explanation Jack!
 
yoderjac said:
A tap root is a trade-off that a tree makes. To ensure that it gets sufficient water to survive, it starts by putting a lot of energy into the tap root and there is little branching. Trees uptake nutrients and water based on the number of fine terminal roots, but if those fine terminal roots can't reach water, the tree dies. The top few inches of soil often dry out before a tree can be established, so it doesn't matter how many fine terminal roots a tree has if they can't reach the water. By putting energy into the terminal root, the tree sacrifices both top growth and root branching, but it survives.

When we use a root pruning system, we are changing the balance of that tradeoff. When the tap root is air pruned, it causes root branching, mostly in the first 4" above the prune. Since the tap root is terminated, the tree puts its energy into root branching (more fine terminal roots) and more top growth. More top growth means more photosynthesis which means more energy production and more terminal roots means more water and nutrients (provided they can be reached).

So, when we decided to use a root pruning container system, we commit to making sure the rootball can reach the needed water and nutrients. By the time the root system of a tree has filled a 1 gal RB2, it can be transplanted, IF it has sufficient water that it can reach. In some climates (I'm borderline) the soil will not dry out deep enough to kill the tree, but it may be limited. That is why many planted from a 1 gal will survive but few will thrive in my area. Keep in mind, I provide no supplemental water to trees in the field. By the time a tree's root ball has filled a 3 gal RB2, it has plenty of access to water in my climate. If I were in a more arid region, I would direct seed.

You can get much faster tree development using a root pruning container system, but you have to use it properly and understand the concepts. That thread I linked in the previous post shows an example. There is no free ride. That fast development comes at the cost of caring for the trees for a season or two depending on your location and making sure the tree does not need to "insurance policy" of a tap root.

By overwintering, I mean keeping the tree alive over the winter in a container so you can care for it for a second growing season. How you over winter containerized trees will depend on location. I'm far enough south that I simply sealed off a room in my basement and open a window. In some locations you can simply put them along side a warm building and pile straw on them. In some place you may need to dig holes in the ground and cover them with soil. Once again, it is understanding the concept and applying it to your situation. You want to tops to stay dormant all winter. Provided you have correct trees for your zone, they can be completely exposed. The roots, however need to be kept warm enough they at they don't freeze hard. Once dormant, the trees will use little water over the winter but they will use some. If you overwinter them outdoors, they usually get enough moisture. If you do it indoors, they do need watered occasionally.

Thanks,

Jack
Click to expand...

Exactly. Excellent explanation of the concepts.
 
Oakseeds has several threads/posts on direct seeding that are very helpful

perhaps he will see this thread and chime in

bill
 
If the tap root is air pruned, when it is replanted to its final destination……..

will a tap root begin to regrow?
Thanks
 
Angus 1895 said:
If the tap root is air pruned, when it is replanted to its final destination……..

will a tap root begin to regrow?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Not really. It will never have a normal tap root, but once the root ball is large enough, in all but the most arid places, it won't need one. The root system can really extract a lot from the soil. By the way, 3 gal is by no way the limit. They have much larger root pruning containers, both above ground and in ground. As I say, if I were in an area where I was worried about drought, I would probably direct seed. In my environment, growing in a root pruning container system works well and starting them indoors in the winter was a great cabin fever project for me.
 
If in a standard pot. Will the oak have the ability to have a tap root?

Thanks
 
Angus 1895 said:
If in a standard pot. Will the oak have the ability to have a tap root?

Thanks
Click to expand...
In a smooth sided pot, roots tend to j-hook or circle. The tree will seem fine for quite a number of years when planted in the field, but eventually, those circling roots can constrict themselves and reduce uptake.

There are alternatives for growing trees and developing great root systems. On is the Missouri Gravel Bed. I never got around to constructing one of these, but If I were younger and had decided to grow trees for more years, I would have.

Thanks,

Jack
 
How many tap roots are there?
 
I have an area on my land that is flood irrigated. The water table is apparently 10 ft. I suspect a tap root would make 4 easy maintenance as we are lucky to get 10 inches of precipitation a year.

If a bare root seedlings have the tap root snapped off does it regrow?
 
Angus 1895 said:
I have an area on my land that is flood irrigated. The water table is apparently 10 ft. I suspect a tap root would make 4 easy maintenance as we are lucky to get 10 inches of precipitation a year.

If a bare root seedlings have the tap root snapped off does it regrow?
Click to expand...
If I was that arid, I would direct seed rather than using root pruning containers.
 
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