Pond Overflow Repair

[roymunson]

New pond is almost full, and as it started climbing the overflow (18" N12 culvert pipe) I saw a gash in the sidewall of the pipe that allowed water to leak in about 18" down.

The pond builder came back, used driveway crack filler tar and a clamshell coupler to get it to stop. It's doing better, but is still peeing down the sidewall inside the overflow.

Any ideas on what would stop the leak while it's actively taking some water? Or am I better off just dropping the level of the pond 6" and fixing it from the outside. That's what I'm leaning towards doing, but if there's an easier fix, I'm all ears.

Wanted to ask this on pond boss as well, but it's not letting me log in at the moment.

 

[SwampCat]

Have you tried one if the flexseal products?

 

[roymunson]

Have you tried one if the flexseal products?

I have not. But based on the corniness of their commercials, I can't tell if you're being sarcastic or not.

Another guy at work suggested it, but I wonder how it'd hold with an active, although not very strong, flow

 

[SwampCat]

I have no idea. They advertise a couple of their products to stop existing leaks. I thought the same thing as you - but after have my builder seal around my fireplace and still had a leak, I got some of the spray on flexseal and it cured the problem

 

[roymunson]

may be worth a shot.

If I can get it to stop, I"m pretty sure I can cover everything with roofing caulk once it's dry.

 

[Bill]

In a house I once owned Someone decided it was a good idea to put a pvc pipe underground through a basement wall on a downward angle in. They ran water lines through it to an outside shed. When it rained the water ran into the pipe and on the floor....

This stuff sealed it off when wet. Sold the place but it held for a few years that I know of.

 

[crowskee]

Drop the water level and glue and patch it from the outside. I would think the plumbing section at lowes would have a glue for polyethylene pipe.

 

[goatman]

Might try bentonite clay.

 

[roymunson]

plan for now is to drop the level a couple inches. weld a patch on to it on the outside, then use tar strips and a caulking of that sort to cover it. Then put an 18" sectional coupler over it with more caulk in the valleys of the coupler.

If I can get it dry inside, I'll caulk in there too.

 

[roymunson]

also have a guy at work who used to do plastic/rubber welding when doing flat roof work. He thinks he could make it happen that way.

 

[roymunson]

Might try bentonite clay.

Went to look at things yesterday and there was a bag of bentonite in the garage. I hand packed the hole on the outside and luckily it was already under water. It stopped things. I put some more on the inside gash of things and I think we got it taken care of. I poured the remaining bag around the base and will return to dump a couple more for overkill, but all in all, was pleased thus far. We'll see if that stuff is tight.

 

[Tree Spud]

also have a guy at work who used to do plastic/rubber welding when doing flat roof work. He thinks he could make it happen that way.

plan for now is to drop the level a couple inches. weld a patch on to it on the outside, then use tar strips and a caulking of that sort to cover it. Then put an 18" sectional coupler over it with more caulk in the valleys of the coupler.

If I can get it dry inside, I'll caulk in there too.

^^^^^ That's the long term and most reliable solution.

Absent that, I would have the contractor replace with new as they appear to have damaged it.

 

[roymunson]

Was out on site today and 1 bag of the stuff had held. I dumped a couple more bags all around the perimeter of the overflow. I now have bentonite from 8" above the exterior of the cut, down to grade about 4-6" below the cut and all all around the pipe. Probably 8-12" thick. If bentonite is watertight, we'll be fine. Here's hoping.