Persimmon grafting advice.

omicron1792

5 year old buck +
So, I have 100’s of American persimmon trees growing on my property, many after a clear cut, some more mature in uncut sections. I have marked them all, and tubed many of them.

I have read yoders thread, watched every video made, practiced some, and bought all the supplies. Btw, I’m a ninja with a scalpel.

Also, bought lots of Scion wood on 5 varieties from Cliff England. Already in fridge, away from fruits and veggies.

Questions.

1. Plan to graft in April here In alabama. I know I know about bark slipping, but I don’t live at farm. My plan is to graft about bud break time, which is in April. Thoughts?

2. Many of my persimmon are suckers where a more mature tree was felled. Most have 4-5 growths about 4-6 feet tall. I tubed the dominant one. What do I do with the others? Was thinking of chip/bud grafting them and see what happens. What if three or 4 of the suckers live and thrive? Keep all of them? Cut down to just one at each spot? They are technically all the same tree (same roots) so let a few grow and train them in different directions?

Thanks!
 
And one more question. Any harm in dormant spraying horticultural oil and copper now and grafting in April. Some had pretty bad leaf spot this past year.
 
So, I have 100’s of American persimmon trees growing on my property, many after a clear cut, some more mature in uncut sections. I have marked them all, and tubed many of them.

I have read yoders thread, watched every video made, practiced some, and bought all the supplies. Btw, I’m a ninja with a scalpel.

Also, bought lots of Scion wood on 5 varieties from Cliff England. Already in fridge, away from fruits and veggies.

Questions.

1. Plan to graft in April here In alabama. I know I know about bark slipping, but I don’t live at farm. My plan is to graft about bud break time, which is in April. Thoughts?

2. Many of my persimmon are suckers where a more mature tree was felled. Most have 4-5 growths about 4-6 feet tall. I tubed the dominant one. What do I do with the others? Was thinking of chip/bud grafting them and see what happens. What if three or 4 of the suckers live and thrive? Keep all of them? Cut down to just one at each spot? They are technically all the same tree (same roots) so let a few grow and train them in different directions?

Thanks!

I;m in 7a and mid-may is about right here. If the leaves on the tree you plan to graft are about the size of a squirrels ear, the sap is probably running enough.

Personally, I think you may be moving too fast. I would select tree in each location and keep all the other suckers mowed. I would then wait until that tree hits about 1" in diameter before cutting it down and bark grafting it. That method has worked best for me. I have had much less luck trying to graft smaller trees. When you do bark graft, you need to remove any tree sprouts regularly so the energy is forced into the graft. I have used cambium alignment grafts on younger trees, but success rates were not great.

Thanks,

Jack
 
I;m in 7a and mid-may is about right here. If the leaves on the tree you plan to graft are about the size of a squirrels ear, the sap is probably running enough.

Personally, I think you may be moving too fast. I would select tree in each location and keep all the other suckers mowed. I would then wait until that tree hits about 1" in diameter before cutting it down and bark grafting it. That method has worked best for me. I have had much less luck trying to graft smaller trees. When you do bark graft, you need to remove any tree sprouts regularly so the energy is forced into the graft. I have used cambium alignment grafts on younger trees, but success rates were not great.

Thanks,

Jack
Thanks for the reply

I have about 20 trees 1” and greater. I’ll be bark grafting those.

The others, I’m gonna give it a shot. There is no doubt that bark grafting has worked great for you, and you have mastered it. Others seem to swear that grafting smaller trees with same size as scion is the way to go.

We shall see!
 
When I say 100’s, I mean probably a thousand. I’ve got lots to experiment on.
 
Thanks for the reply

I have about 20 trees 1” and greater. I’ll be bark grafting those.

The others, I’m gonna give it a shot. There is no doubt that bark grafting has worked great for you, and you have mastered it. Others seem to swear that grafting smaller trees with same size as scion is the way to go.

We shall see!

For trees that are small, I had some success with cambium alignment type grafts. You don't need to wait for the sap to be running for those grafts. They are generally done when the trees are still dormant near the end of dormancy. I'm not great with a grafting knife and W&T. I do have a grafting tool that cuts a V type graft. I did better with that on young seedlings.

Best of luck,

Jack
 
For trees that are small, I had some success with cambium alignment type grafts. You don't need to wait for the sap to be running for those grafts. They are generally done when the trees are still dormant near the end of dormancy. I'm not great with a grafting knife and W&T. I do have a grafting tool that cuts a V type graft. I did better with that on young seedlings.

Best of luck,

Jack


Jack, have you ever tried t-budding persimmon?
thanks
 
Jack, have you ever tried t-budding persimmon?
thanks
Yoder got kicked off the site a while back.

Every time I asked him he said that he had switched to almost exclusive bark grafting at about 1” in diameter b
 
Yoder got kicked off the site a while back.

Every time I asked him he said that he had switched to almost exclusive bark grafting at about 1” in diameter b


OK thanks for the info. Why did he get kicked off the site? And do you know if anyone else on here has t budded persimmons?
 
OK thanks for the info. Why did he get kicked off the site? And do you know if anyone else on here has t budded persimmons?
I tried it for the first time last year and all failed. I do think it was more about my scions weren’t the best. My bark and cambium grafts did great.

I would check with @nativehabitat. He probably has done it some.

You’ll have to ask Bill about Yoder. Probably more am accumulation. Ha
 
I tried it for the first time last year and all failed. I do think it was more about my scions weren’t the best. My bark and cambium grafts did great.

I would check with @nativehabitat. He probably has done it some.

You’ll have to ask Bill about Yoder. Probably more am accumulation. Ha

OK thanks again. When were you collecting your scions for t budding and what time of the year were you doing your t budding? I've done hundreds (probably well over 1000 actually) t buds for apple trees in August and usually have great success with that.
 
OK thanks again. When were you collecting your scions for t budding and what time of the year were you doing your t budding? I've done hundreds (probably well over 1000 actually) t buds for apple trees in August and usually have great success with that.
So I grafted in May here in Alabama. It’s when the bark slips. That said, it was a hot and dry summer. None of my trees did great, and I just can’t water them through summer.

I got mine from a guy in Kentucky that has thousands of trees. Cant remember his name but most know if his place. The scions stayed in the fridge all winter. Next time I will order them much closer to grafting time. My dormant apple grafts all took and did great, even though many of the trees didn’t survive the summer.
 
As I said I've t-budded probably well over 1000 apple trees over the past 20+ years using budwood from the current year's growth in August. But I think I'm going to try something I've never considered before, that is t-budding in late May or early June for persimmons (and maybe even apples) using buds from dormant scion wood collected in late winter just before the buds wake up. Here's a couple videos showing that done.





 
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