My Rendition of a UTV/ATV FLIP-OVER MINI CRIMPER ROLLER

don

5 year old buck +
I was inspired by member Semisane, (http://habitat-talk.com/index.php?threads/an-atv-roller-crimper.9144/) to build one of these and except for a little more paint my edition is now finished.
The major changes were pillow block bearings, a rotating ball hitch coupler for un-even ground, and a little additional weight due to a 2"x2" frame and tongue and 1 1/2"x 1 1/2" angle iron welded to the tank rather than 1 1/4" angle iron. The minor difference is a pair of fittings to the tank for both filling and bleeding of the tank when adding/removing the water and a little beefier hardware and tow bar. Dry weight is 252 lbs. and filled weight will be approximately 360lbs from my calculations. My investment including the tank and materials was well under $300.00 but as a non-welder I paid for that to be done at a cost of $115.00 including all cutting/fitting and assembly with my help.
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PARTS LIST FOR MY ATV/UTV TOWABLE MINI ROLLER CRIMPER
*** ONE 9” X 48” x 3/8” THICK WALL OXYGEN TANK (measured from remaining length of the tank with both ends of the steel tank cut off)
*** 2 PIECES OF ¼" OR 5/16” FLAT STEEL CUT INTO APPROPRIATELY SIZED CIRCLES FOR COMPLETE COVERING OF THE TANK ENDS
*** TWO 3” x ½” HEX BOLTS WITH NUTS AND WASHERS (the hex ends will be centered and welded to the circle end pieces with each circle then welded in place on each tank end).
*** TWELVE FEET 2” X 2” X 3/16” SQUARE STEEL STOCK (6ft of this is for the tongue).
*** TWO PIECES OF 12” X 1 ½” X 1 ½" x 3/16” ANGLE IRON FOR TONGUE SUPPORT BRACES
*** NINE 4FT SECTIONS OF 1 ½” X 1 ½” X 3/16” THICK STEEL ANGLE IRON
*** TWO PILLOW BLOCK BEARINGS WITH ½" CENTER
*** FOUR 3 ½" X ½" HEX BOLTS WITH WASHERS AND NUTS (for mounting of the pillow blocks to the frame)
*** 24” X 5/8” Plain Steel Round Rod (12” each per axle)
*** TWO 13 INCH TIRES AND RIMS WITH 5/8 INCH CENTER
*** TWO 1 ¼" X 5/8" NUTS (used only as spacers between wheels and frame)
*** TWO 1 ½” COTTER PINS (for use thru drilled holes in axles)
*** 2 INCH STRAIGHT TRAILER COUPLER (I use a 1 7/8” ball)
*** PAINT THE COLOR OF YOUR CHOICE, I USED RUST-OLEUM BRAND FOR RUST PREVENTION.
 
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Looks great!

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I think it looks great too. My question is whether that is enough weight to get a good crimp. I guess you could add a tray over the crimper if added weight is needed.
 
Thank you. Having interest in both the throw and mow and throw and roll methods and not owning or wanting to own a no till drill I am hoping that this build, after broadcasting the small seed, will flatten the thatch enough to protect young seedlings during the hotter/dryer summer months. If it does not work out as planned I can use the brush hog to achieve the desired results.
A Glyphosate application will no doubt still be needed after the rolling or mowing process, that is understood and expected.
More weight may be a necessity but will be dealt with if indeed it is an issue. I can envision a removable tray added to the top of the frame or tongue for solid blocks, etc. Thanks for the input Jack.
 
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Thank you. Having interest in both the throw and mow and throw and roll methods and not owning or wanting to own a no till drill I am hoping that this build, after broadcasting the small seed, will flatten the thatch enough to protect young seedlings during the hotter/dryer summer months. If it does not work out as planned I can use the brush hog to achieve the desired results.
A Glyphosate application will no doubt still be needed after the rolling or mowing process, that is understood and expected.
More weight may be a necessity but will be dealt with if indeed it is necessary. I can envision a tray added to the top of the frame for solid blocks, etc.

It really depends on your crop. For example, if you plant a thick crop of WR in the fall, crimping may be sufficient to kill it without gly. I've used a roller or cultipacker on WR. That does not kill it and gly is needed, but with a crimper you may not need the gly. I don't know if it will need more weight or not. It comes down to pounds per square inch, not total weight. I do know that commercial versions are pretty heavy. It may work fine as it. Some crops can be killed by crimping and others can't. It really is a nice tool to have!

Great job!

Jack
 
Time will tell, now that winter here is nearing it's end I can't wait to get things started for another growing season. :emoji_thumbsup:
 
I will be cutting mine from last year open and filling it with concrete.


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We got lucky and found a 14' cultipacker in good shape for sale at an estate auction for $75
 
That looks sooo awesome...I am wanting to take on this project myself but too many other things going on at the moment. Doing some research you will be fine but what I read was to make the crimpers on an angle so it wont bounce on you when pulling it.
 
That looks sooo awesome...I am wanting to take on this project myself but too many other things going on at the moment. Doing some research you will be fine but what I read was to make the crimpers on an angle so it wont bounce on you when pulling it.

You don’t need them at an angle to smooth it out. Instead of having one lone blade all the way across cut it in multiple pieces and stagger them so at least one of the blades is in contact with the ground at all times.


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You don’t need them at an angle to smooth it out. Instead of having one lone blade all the way across cut it in multiple pieces and stagger them so at least one of the blades is in contact with the ground at all times.


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I’ve thought of that , too, but that vertical bar is one that is bearing weight while accomplishing no crimping. Maybe it’s still good enough “for the girls we’re goin’ with,” but it is a hinderance to optimal performance.
 
"that vertical bar is one that is bearing weight while accomplishing no crimping".
I must be missing something here as I don't understand your comment. The vertical bars only purpose, other than support for the tank, is for towing while the unit is in a non-working mode, the vertical bars will indeed bear the weight, the tires will make contact with the ground, but nothing else will so in that manner you are correct.
When the unit is flipped over using the drawbar and then the ball coupler rotated it is now in working mode, the vertical bars now do nothing but put the tires in an non-weight bearing upright position and the weight of the entire unit is then placed on the horizontal bars where the crimping of the thatch takes place.
Feel free to correct me if I am wrong but I have seen it in action now and it does work as designed. The only thing now in question is how much additional weight might be needed for it to operate most efficiently as far as the crimping of the material it rides over.
 
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Something along this is what I'm talking about but smaller obviously.
 
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"that vertical bar is one that is bearing weight while accomplishing no crimping".
I must be missing something here as I don't understand your comment. The vertical bars only purpose, other than support for the tank, is for towing while the unit is in a non-working mode, the vertical bars will indeed bear the weight, the tires will make contact with the ground, but nothing else will so in that manner you are correct.
When the unit is flipped over using the drawbar and then the ball coupler rotated it is now in working mode, the vertical bars now do nothing but put the tires in an non-weight bearing upright position and the weight of the entire unit is then placed on the horizontal bars where the crimping of the thatch takes place.
Feel free to correct me if I am wrong but I have seen it in action now and it does work as designed. The only thing now in question is how much additional weight might be needed for it to operate most efficiently as far as the crimping of the material it rides over.
Yep. I’m mistaken. I thought you had something welded perpendicular to your horizontal fins to minimize vibration while crimping. My bad. Speaking of, how bad is the vibration?
 
The ground is pretty soft currently and the vibrations isn't bad at all. That may and probably will change once the ground hardens later this summer but enough thatch may help cancel out any difference even then.
 
Looks great. Trying to figure out how I buy or build a crimper myself. I can't weld, so building one would first involve teaching myself to weld.
 
Looks great. Trying to figure out how I buy or build a crimper myself. I can't weld, so building one would first involve teaching myself to weld.
sounds like a good problem to have. I love learning new things.
 
This is one of my next projects, I have a old 80 gal hot water heater I want to turn into a crimper.

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Perfect !!
 
sounds like a good problem to have. I love learning new things.

I'm with you. And I'm off from work for at least the next 2 weeks...probably the rest of the school year (I'm a high school teacher). So, I've got the time.
 
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