Multi leader apple trees.

[Mahindra3016]

A few of the apple seedlings that i have growing in pots have 2 leaders, all that i ever hear about is training to one leader for apple trees, but is it really that important for a wildlife tree? I have a wild apple on my ground with 4 leaders, and it makes alot of apples, i do open the center of the tree up every few winters, being that i started these trees from seed i figure i could graft a known apple to one side, and let the other side go to see what it ends up being. Here are two of the seedlings, i have three more that are growing a second leade also.

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[4wanderingeyes]

It will grow faster if it can put all of its energy into one leader.


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[yoderjac]

I'm just starting with apples and I know there are a lot of experienced apple guys on here, but here is my 2 cents for what it is worth. In my area, apple trees need protected with a cage when young. When a tree is older, I'll remove the cages. Once the cage is removed, I want to be able to mow to keep the weeds down. If I have low branches, I won't be able to do that. If I remove those branches then, the tree will have spend a lot of energy developing branches that I'll take away. When a branch exceeds 30% of the diameter of a central leader, it begins to rob energy from it. So, personally, I want to have trees that don't branch until above 6'. When a newly grafted seedling is planted in a root pruning container, I will usually keep all growth for a bit. I want to make sure that if something does happen to the central leader when the graft is young, that another branch will become the central leader. However, once I'm near the end of the first growing season, the central leader is pretty safe. I prefer dormant pruning. So, whether I plant the tree in the fall or wait until it is dormant to plant it, I'll wait until it goes dormant and then prune anything competing with the central leader.

That is my thinking and approach, but I'd like to hear what others do and why.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[Mahindra3016]

Here is one of the wild trees on my ground this one has 3 leaders, It usually puts out alot of fruit but i did cut one off to top work it.

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[Turkey Creek]

Is it impossible to have a multi leader tree originating from the base? NO.... BUT it has potential for problems later. Probably one of the biggest concerns would be poor crotch angle, leading to bark inclusion and therefore a greater probability of the two splitting apart and leaving a large wound that probably wont heal well. As Jaclk mentioned you are also slowing the overall growth of the tree, because you basically have two trees on 1 root system.

 

[chummer]

For what it is worth...most of my native trees that have survived for decades on their own are multi trunked. I have had sun scald and winter die back pruning to a central leader so now I am letting them grow how they want. I will clean them up in a few years if needed.

 

[chummer]

i have some like that too Chummer but, I think you'll be better off with central leaders if there is damage.

You might want to try painting those trunks to prevent the sun scald. It works. 1/3 latex , 1/3 joint compound (not marijuana :)). and 1/3 water. Mix it up and paint. I'd go up as high as you can on yours. Normally 3-4' is fine.

I have been doing that for two years with success. I still have some crack and some completely die. All my Liberties cracked last year despite the paint. Surprisingly all are still alive.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

If I can add some info from some older trees - we have some apple trees at camp that are anywhere from 20 to 40+ years old. The ones that have multi-trunks or split trunks, always seem to have one split off and open up big wounds that let disease & insects in. Then it's a fight to keep them alive. As Turkey Creek said - poor crotch angles become the main problem as both ( or more ) leaders are straining for the sun. We have seen this at our camp. We lose more of those older trees than we save. Wind, ice, wet snow, crop load - all put big strains on those tight-v crotch angles.

Can it work for a while ?? Sure, but as the tree ages and gets heavier crop loads ( and maybe ice, wind, etc. ) you risk big damage and possibly starting all over again with new trees. I can't justify the risk at our place. Too much money, time, and labor invested !!

 

[H20fwler]

Good thread, with some really good info. I've got a pear with a low crotch I was wondering the same about.

 

[j-bird]

I have an apple I need to essentially start over on - I am dreading it for fear of killing it, but I know it's what is in the best interest of the long term health of the tree. I don't like it, but I know the longer I wait the worse it's going to get. Pay now or pay later - either way it's going to cost me........it's just a matter of if I do it on my terms or mother natures. I fear if it's on mother natures terms it's going to cost me far more as well!

I planted a tree for a long term solution - cutting corners for a short term gain, on a long term solution tends to never pan out as planned!

 

[Mahindra3016]

Thank you for all the info guys, if i cut the second leaders off will it also help the tree to trim back the main leader some this winter? some are approaching 3 feet tall already. Do seedlings leaves change in the fall or will frost make the seedlings go dormant? It doesn't look like the trees are going to quite growing anytime soon.