Moving Deer Blinds

Foggy47

5 year old buck +
Seems each year I move one or two deer blinds. Today me and the Orange Crush moved one of my Redneck blinds....and I consider moving two more. I bought a set of forks last year......and the brand I purchased allows me to invert the forks which allows my loader to lift about 10.5 feet high. I did have to add a 4x4" section of wood square post to get enough clearance with the ground......but this worked out most satisfactory. I moved the blind in about 2 hours time total....with the most time spent with leveling and re-attaching to the ground. Pretty good place to watch 5 total trails / plots with up to 150 yard shots down those lanes.

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I hate moving them. seems I always break something. But I just pick them up, I don't take time like you and figure out how to level them on the forks or bucket. :)
 
I build mine in permanent locations. They eventually become part of the natural environment the deer. Each time I have the urge to move one, I just build a new one... 😊
 
I hate moving them. seems I always break something. But I just pick them up, I don't take time like you and figure out how to level them on the forks or bucket. :)
It helps that my land is quite level and I didn't move this one too far. The first time I did this.....I was a bit uncertain about the whole process.....but now I feel pretty comfortable to move 'em. I keep them pretty close to the ground.....and drive extra slow. I don't even attach the stand to the loader anymore....just let gravity work for you....and be ready to set it down if things get shaky.
 
I strap mine to a running gear for longer moves since I have hills and sometimes back to the polebarn for major repairs. This one did a move after a fallen tree did some damage and upgraded from roofing felt to nailed roll roofing on all sides not just the roof. Just roofing felt did not stand up to the winds and weather and only using staples. The old location was also being impacted by neighbors building a permanent blind due south of me below the hill between my blind and their crop fields. So no location is permanent on smaller properties I guess.DSC00740 (Large).JPGDSC00741 (large).JPG
 
It helps that my land is quite level and I didn't move this one too far. The first time I did this.....I was a bit uncertain about the whole process.....but now I feel pretty comfortable to move 'em. I keep them pretty close to the ground.....and drive extra slow. I don't even attach the stand to the loader anymore....just let gravity work for you....and be ready to set it down if things get shaky.
I figured you were pretty flat. This would not work in the hills. Like jack, I just build a new one. Moving them is a pain in the ass. I raised one this year and had about 10 hours into it. Never again.
 
Last time I moved one I put a hole in the fiberglass with my fork. Now another thing on my list is to patch it with fiberglass repair kit….
 
I've watched all kinds of videos on building elevated box blinds on youtube. I just don't get the concept of using brackets on the ground and then flipping the thing over. Granted, I'm in a climate where I'm not trying to keep them warm inside, so I don't build traditional walls. I just did a cost estimate. Parts in 2016 when I built the last one ran about $650. This year it priced out at $850 with higher material cost. Here is an example of a 6x6: https://habitat-talk.com/threads/stadder.12211/#post-227847
 
I flip all of mine over w/ elevator brackets. It's easy and quick.
 
I strap mine to a running gear for longer moves since I have hills and sometimes back to the polebarn for major repairs. This one did a move after a fallen tree did some damage and upgraded from roofing felt to nailed roll roofing on all sides not just the roof. Just roofing felt did not stand up to the winds and weather and only using staples. The old location was also being impacted by neighbors building a permanent blind due south of me below the hill between my blind and their crop fields. So no location is permanent on smaller properties I guess.View attachment 44329View attachment 44330

I am not sure why it never occurred to me to use scaffolding for the base, great idea bud.
 
I flip all of mine over w/ elevator brackets. It's easy and quick.
I watched a couple guys do it on youtube videos. Seems a lot tougher and more expensive than simply building them in place and bolting header boards for the floor joist in place.
 
I watched a couple guys do it on youtube videos. Seems a lot tougher and more expensive than simply building them in place and bolting header boards for the floor joist in place.
I build the base in my garage w/ brackets and joist hangers attached. Take to the field. Add joists and legs and braces. Flip over. Only need help to flip over. It's simple and easy and no difference in cost other than brackets. Then put the pre built walls on the base. It literally can't get any easier.
 
I build the base in my garage w/ brackets and joist hangers attached. Take to the field. Add joists and legs and braces. Flip over. Only need help to flip over. It's simple and easy and no difference in cost other than brackets. Then put the pre built walls on the base. It literally can't get any easier.
Perhaps that is the difference; help flipping it over. I do mine alone. The stuff I saw on youtube flipping them over was guys with tractors trying to flip it themselves. The other aspect I like about building them in place and bolting headers to the posts is that I can custom build to the terrain and vegetation. Floor height is decided when I get on a ladder in the spot and look around. I use push-out windows to help shade inside the blind. Window location is decides once I put in the floor and get up there on a chair.
 
Perhaps that is the difference; help flipping it over. I do mine alone. The stuff I saw on youtube flipping them over was guys with tractors trying to flip it themselves. The other aspect I like about building them in place and bolting headers to the posts is that I can custom build to the terrain and vegetation. Floor height is decided when I get on a ladder in the spot and look around. I use push-out windows to help shade inside the blind. Window location is decides once I put in the floor and get up there on a chair.
I don't have to worry about safety doing it my way. Not standing on ladders trying to hold boards in place myself and trying to bolt/screw them in. Everything is done on the ground level w/ the exception of the walls but then you're on the platform. I'm not comfortable building on ladders if I don't have to hence the reason I do it this way.
 
I don't have to worry about safety doing it my way. Not standing on ladders trying to hold boards in place myself and trying to bolt/screw them in. Everything is done on the ground level w/ the exception of the walls but then you're on the platform. I'm not comfortable building on ladders if I don't have to hence the reason I do it this way.
Now safety issues here as well. I pour cement pillars to start with. I have a jig that sits on them. I lean each 16' 4x4 on the tractor bucket and easily lift it into place on the pillar. It is still leaning on the bucket when I secure it to the jig. I have already leveled the site so standing on a step ladder to bolt the header boards in place is quite safe. I just put screws in the posts at the appropriate height and set the header boards in place. I screw them in and then bolt them in place. Next are the floor joists that go on top of the header boards. By the time the 2 end joists are in place and screwed into the posts, it is quite stable and the jig is removed.

The jig is just 6x6s that lock together to form a frame. Each 6x6 has a long 2x4 on top with a pivot point at one end. The pivot up and temporarily screw into the 4x4s for bracing until the structure is locked down.

I have a second jig I use to mark the spots to auger holes for the posts. It is a safe one man operation. The hardest part is installing the siding panels with one guy. Again, I put temporary screws part way in the posts and then use the tractor bucket or excavator arm to life the panels up. I then set each end on a screw and then screw them to the 4x4s. I have no 2x4 framing at all in mine. Just floor and ceiling joists. The walls are just panels screwed to the four 4x4 posts. I run 2x4s between the posts below and above where I want windows. This may vary from side to side of the blind depending on the elevation and vegetation surrounding the blind. It has been a very safe one man operation.

I also use some millennium ladder stands. I find it more dangerous by far, even with my jig for that, to put them up with one person than to build an elevated blind. I am blessed to have the tractor and excavator.

Another trick I use when working at height on a ladder is to use the tractor bucket or excavator bucket with the arm raised to prop a ladder against. I find this much safer than putting a ladder against a tree. I've been building these box blinds for quite a few years. I've built them 8'x8', 8'x6', 6'x6' and varying heights from about 10' of elevation to 20'. I find the 8x8 was just wasted space. I like the 8x6 for taking a kid or new hunter. I find the 6x6 are sufficient for hunting by myself.

Thanks,

Jack
 
I don't have to worry about safety doing it my way. Not standing on ladders trying to hold boards in place myself and trying to bolt/screw them in. Everything is done on the ground level w/ the exception of the walls but then you're on the platform. I'm not comfortable building on ladders if I don't have to hence the reason I do it this way.
I've built about six box blinds using the elevator brackets to make a base with a floor.....and then placing wall and roof sections up on top of that platform. Pretty risky stuff for anyone to do it this way. My days of doing that are long gone. I still use a few of these home-built stands.....but recently added a few Redneck blinds. I much prefer the Rednecks over the home brewed elevated blinds. Yep....you can save some money on the home brews. All our windows hinge at the top and open to the inside.....homebrews and rednecks alike. Too much snow, weather and movement to do it any other way. We need heat in Northern MN and until recently we used Buddy heaters. Now we are changing to use Nu Way gas stoves with a 3" pipe through the roof. Scent goes up and away through the stove chimney. No more foggy windows. Nice.
 
I've built about six box blinds using the elevator brackets to make a base with a floor.....and then placing wall and roof sections up on top of that platform. Pretty risky stuff for anyone to do it this way. My days of doing that are long gone. I still use a few of these home-built stands.....but recently added a few Redneck blinds. I much prefer the Rednecks over the home brewed elevated blinds. Yep....you can save some money on the home brews. All our windows hinge at the top and open to the inside.....homebrews and rednecks alike. Too much snow, weather and movement to do it any other way. We need heat in Northern MN and until recently we used Buddy heaters. Now we are changing to use Nu Way gas stoves with a 3" pipe through the roof. Scent goes up and away through the stove chimney. No more foggy windows. Nice.
I've done 10 I think. Some I've built the walls/roof myself w/ just openings for windows (the simplest design) and another one I used framed swing sash windows. The last few I've put the soft-sided redneck blinds on home built bases. Nothing inherently risky about any of this.

For the ones I build everything (walls/roof) I do it in sections. Lift one wall up at a time and secure it. Move on to the next one. For the elevated ones I have another person help with that part because it's just easier but I could do it myself if I wanted. I built one on a 2' platform myself. Took less than 2 hours to assemble once I got it in the field.

We don't have a FEL on the tractor so that never gets used.

I'd love about 10 fiberglass redneck blinds, but I'm poor. ;) Someday! fjb for now.
 
Now safety issues here as well. I pour cement pillars to start with. I have a jig that sits on them. I lean each 16' 4x4 on the tractor bucket and easily lift it into place on the pillar. It is still leaning on the bucket when I secure it to the jig. I have already leveled the site so standing on a step ladder to bolt the header boards in place is quite safe. I just put screws in the posts at the appropriate height and set the header boards in place. I screw them in and then bolt them in place. Next are the floor joists that go on top of the header boards. By the time the 2 end joists are in place and screwed into the posts, it is quite stable and the jig is removed.

The jig is just 6x6s that lock together to form a frame. Each 6x6 has a long 2x4 on top with a pivot point at one end. The pivot up and temporarily screw into the 4x4s for bracing until the structure is locked down.

I have a second jig I use to mark the spots to auger holes for the posts. It is a safe one man operation. The hardest part is installing the siding panels with one guy. Again, I put temporary screws part way in the posts and then use the tractor bucket or excavator arm to life the panels up. I then set each end on a screw and then screw them to the 4x4s. I have no 2x4 framing at all in mine. Just floor and ceiling joists. The walls are just panels screwed to the four 4x4 posts. I run 2x4s between the posts below and above where I want windows. This may vary from side to side of the blind depending on the elevation and vegetation surrounding the blind. It has been a very safe one man operation.

I also use some millennium ladder stands. I find it more dangerous by far, even with my jig for that, to put them up with one person than to build an elevated blind. I am blessed to have the tractor and excavator.

Another trick I use when working at height on a ladder is to use the tractor bucket or excavator bucket with the arm raised to prop a ladder against. I find this much safer than putting a ladder against a tree. I've been building these box blinds for quite a few years. I've built them 8'x8', 8'x6', 6'x6' and varying heights from about 10' of elevation to 20'. I find the 8x8 was just wasted space. I like the 8x6 for taking a kid or new hunter. I find the 6x6 are sufficient for hunting by myself.

Thanks,

Jack
Now do it w/o the tractor. Which many don't have. ;)
 
I've built about six box blinds using the elevator brackets to make a base with a floor.....and then placing wall and roof sections up on top of that platform. Pretty risky stuff for anyone to do it this way. My days of doing that are long gone. I still use a few of these home-built stands.....but recently added a few Redneck blinds. I much prefer the Rednecks over the home brewed elevated blinds. Yep....you can save some money on the home brews. All our windows hinge at the top and open to the inside.....homebrews and rednecks alike. Too much snow, weather and movement to do it any other way. We need heat in Northern MN and until recently we used Buddy heaters. Now we are changing to use Nu Way gas stoves with a 3" pipe through the roof. Scent goes up and away through the stove chimney. No more foggy windows. Nice.

We have one of those redneck blinds on our place. I don't care for it. It was more expensive and less functional than the home brew stuff I've made. They don't have enough room inside for me and I don't like the window style. On the up side, they are portable.

Thanks,

Jack
 
We have one of those redneck blinds on our place. I don't care for it. It was more expensive and less functional than the home brew stuff I've made. They don't have enough room inside for me and I don't like the window style. On the up side, they are portable.

Thanks,

Jack
You can't save 'em all.
 
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