Long Term Plot Plans - Thoughts?

[nrowles]

I have 14 acres with my house on it. This provides many struggles on the hunting side of things mostly because any kind of hunting plan takes a back seat to how I want my property to be in every aspect other than hunting. The pines were making me claustrophobic so I ended up clearing a bunch of land and that was not good for the small deer population I have (which I knew would be the case). I have included 2 maps one close and one afar. The outside border is entirely cleared now with the exception of the inside of the "U" to the west. The buildings to the north are camps, not homes. 1, 2, 4, 5 are all between 1/3 - 1/2 acre while 3 is about 3/4 acre. 2 1/2 acres total. The reason I feel the need to plant this much and break it up like I am is because the deer move through 1 & 2 north and south and 4 & 5 east and west. I can get completely different deer in these areas even though they are so close together.

6 I am just going to mow a few times per year and not plant anything for the animals since so close to the house. Seems like a wasted effort.

1 & 4 I want to plant perennial clover.

2 & 5 I want to plant perennial alfalfa.

3 I want to plant annuals - buckwheat in spring and oats/rye in the fall.

The brown strips are egyptian wheat to break things up a bit and put a screen between the plots and the house. With it being annual, I'm not locked into anything.

I may put a few fruit trees out there but I'm not jumping into anything like that any time soon.

I want to keep the open land open. I don't want any of it to grow back up to where I can't utilize the land or walk or ride on it if I'd like.

I also had a guy come in and thin a lot of the exterior so I can get hardwoods to grow so my perimeter is currently really thin in many spots except a couple areas that weren't worth his time and are very thick yet.

My pictures are pretty bad. Best I can do.

Any thoughts on my plan? Even a "yeah looks good" will be helpful.

 

[nrowles]

Also, you can pretty much see the perimeter of my property with the lines in the trees.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

My only question is why not just plant all the perennial acreage in a clover/alfalfa/chicory blend? Might be able to find a complimentary mix that keeps something growing strong at all times in all the ground.

 

[nrowles]

Good question. This is why I posted the thread. I've only ever planted straight up clover. I didn't know what could be combined.

Everybody else agree with this? Instead of splitting the clover and alfalfa combine it in same plot and add chicory if I want?

 

[nrowles]

Also to note, I have to research and learn this but I would like to spray the plots to keep grass/weeds down. Does that change anything with combining the clover/alfalfa/chicory?

 

[Bill]

It removes chicory from the mix. But anything you spray on clover is safe on alfalfa.

The problem I sometimes face with clover is if we get a dry late summer and fall it goes dormant and isn't lush green during the season. Wet years it is fine. Maybe you want ti alternate 4 and 5 with a clover mix and a cereal grain mix. (cereal rye) I always plant clover with my rye and it comes on strong in the spring after the rye has matured.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

Others are more well versed in this than I but it depends what herbicide you want to use. I'm pretty sure you could use clethodim and butyrac in clover/alfalfa blend. The broadleaf selective herbicides i know of are going to be hard on the chicory though.

Might be helpful if you shared where this is located and the soil type to get more valuable input on blends that could work well.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

You could probably keep it perennial and broadcast some rye on top in fall as well. That would provide some late season cereals and help combat weeds the following year and is easy to kill.

 

[nrowles]

Might be helpful if you shared where this is located and the soil type to get more valuable input on blends that could work well.

Pennsylvania. Shale ground.

 

[Derek Reese 29]

I would definitely go with the clover/alfalfa blend, but you can always add annuals or any grain in the fall by mowing and broadcasting. I have done this with good success on a smaller scale.
That way you get the smorgasbord effect, have the clover/alfalfa for earlier fall attraction (archery season), and the brassica/annual/grain attraction for later on.
Also, some people will tell you not to, but I ALWAYS broadcast a grain into my annuals in September (sometimes even October)..that way once those brassicas are nothing but stems there is still something green in the plot and it will green up the quickest in the spring (great for turkey attraction early in PA).

 

[omicron1792]

Also to note, I have to research and learn this but I would like to spray the plots to keep grass/weeds down. Does that change anything with combining the clover/alfalfa/chicory?

You can spray imox/raptor at 4oz/acre. Safe on clover, alfalfa, and chicory. I’ll often add 10-12oz/acre of grass herbicide like Clethodim with imox. Don’t mow the grains, let them stand and die and melt into plot. Will give some clover shade as it gets hot.

Spray in spring. Then mow 6-8 weeks before first frost and plant with favorite grain and small amount of clover/alfalfa/chicory yearly to keep fresh. Rinse and repeat yearly.

This is maintenance plan. To start plots burn down with Gly and plant your seeds in fall. Mix with favorite grain as cover crop.

I like about 3lbs/acre chicory, 10lbs/acre of alfalfa, and between 60-100lbs of grain. I like rye when starting the plot for better weed control. I usually do one annual and one perennial clover, between 6-10lbs/acre each depending on which two you choose. Crimson/arrowleaf/med red/Balansa/Berseem all work well. Go on lower side of suggested amount. Then 6-8lbs of landino of your choice as perennial

 

[omicron1792]

Also to note, I have to research and learn this but I would like to spray the plots to keep grass/weeds down. Does that change anything with combining the clover/alfalfa/chicory?

If broadleaf weeds get too bad, can mow once or twice in summer. Imox gives about 3 months of residual. If needed, spray in September with 16 oz of Clethodim and 1.5 quarts of 2-4db. Notice the b, has to have the b. You will lose the chicory but can just replant the next week when you put in your grains and small amount of clover. At 3lbs/acre easy to do.

You have some people that mow mow mow. Craig Harper thinks peiple mow way to much and should only mow once a year, with one to two spraying a year.

 

[omicron1792]

I pretty much use this article to a T. Nobody does food plots as well as Craig Harper IMO.

Reaching Clover’s Golden Years: Lengthening the Life of Clover Food Plots

Stop by Mossy Oak for some in-depth insight on how to manage your clover plots year-round, with info and advice on the best weed control products and strategies for clover.

www.mossyoak.com

 

[bigboreblr]

Few things....

4/5 just make 1 plot and leave the area brushy twoards the road.

In the neighborhood map, I see no water. IF you can make a small pond, or put in the water tub with an easy way to refill / drain / flush that would help alot.

Add some fruit trees in a spot or two. IT can be very helpful for bow hunting to get them in range.

I'd make plot 1 just a little bigger spot rather than divide up that spot into a larger area. Spend more time hunting the larger 4/5 area, but keep that back area (1/2) with less human prescence. Hunt that on the edge of weather patterns or make it a late season draw. ON small parcels, you are unlikely to reguarly get nicer bucks on there. But, keep one low pressure and work it on those days you know the deer are stocking up on food.

OVerall, I keep my food plots clover plots, then rotate them. Past 2 years I have been doing the fall grains in them. But, will likely refresh them every 3-5 years with a nice blend of turnips, clover, and oats.

Alphalfa can be intensive to maintain. Start anything right by taking care of weeds, then plant. Fertilizing and planting in the spring before you can spray is just asking for weed problems.

Dont over mow clover. Wait until seed heads are looking dead. IF you have to mow often, compensate by late summer and frost seeding and try to mow atleast 4 inches, 5 or 6 is better. Without new plants to replace old, stuff takes over. Clover makes nitrogen, over time the excess will be used by something. You can rotate annually with grains, or after 3 years or so, replant something that needs alot of nitrogen. MAny years I just planted clover, oats, and turnips, used moslty 6/24/24. Frost seeded the plot with clover annually. after a few years, redo it.

 

[Nightvision]

You can spray imox/raptor at 4oz/acre. Safe on clover, alfalfa, and chicory. I’ll often add 10-12oz/acre of grass herbicide like Clethodim with imox. Don’t mow the grains, let them stand and die and melt into plot. Will give some clover shade as it gets hot.

Spray in spring. Then mow 6-8 weeks before first frost and plant with favorite grain and small amount of clover/alfalfa/chicory yearly to keep fresh. Rinse and repeat yearly.

This is maintenance plan. To start plots burn down with Gly and plant your seeds in fall. Mix with favorite grain as cover crop.

I like about 3lbs/acre chicory, 10lbs/acre of alfalfa, and between 60-100lbs of grain. I like rye when starting the plot for better weed control. I usually do one annual and one perennial clover, between 6-10lbs/acre each depending on which two you choose. Crimson/arrowleaf/med red/Balansa/Berseem all work well. Go on lower side of suggested amount. Then 6-8lbs of landino of your choice as perennial

Are you 100% sure Imox can be used on Chicory? I didn’t think you could use anything on chicory.

If so, that is great news to me. I just planted some chicory for the 1st time this fall.

 

[omicron1792]

I’m sure. But do not go higher.

 

[Catscratch]

Not a great pic but you'll get the idea.
I made every plot visible from the house. It's been a great enjoyment for everyone in the family to be able to look out the kitchen window and see deer. We don't hunt plots so that's kind of irrelevant, but seeing deer from home is great.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

Are you 100% sure Imox can be used on Chicory? I didn’t think you could use anything on chicory.

If so, that is great news to me. I just planted some chicory for the 1st time this fall.

From Keystone's website: "Raptor is safe on Alfalfa, Clover, and usually on Chickory. For use in chicory, apply early post-emergence when weeds are actively growing and when chicory has at least 2, and no more than 4, fully expanded true leaves present. DO NOT apply to chicory subjected to stress conditions, such as hail damage, flooding, drought, injury from other herbicides, or widely fluctuating temperatures, or crop injury may result. Addition of nitrogen fertilizer (Nitro-Surf) may improve weed control but also increases the likelihood of injury to chicory."

 

[omicron1792]

From Keystone's website: "Raptor is safe on Alfalfa, Clover, and usually on Chickory. For use in chicory, apply early post-emergence when weeds are actively growing and when chicory has at least 2, and no more than 4, fully expanded true leaves present. DO NOT apply to chicory subjected to stress conditions, such as hail damage, flooding, drought, injury from other herbicides, or widely fluctuating temperatures, or crop injury may result. Addition of nitrogen fertilizer (Nitro-Surf) may improve weed control but also increases the likelihood of injury to chicory."

At 4oz an acre it still does well on broadleaves, but weaker on grasses. I don’t add at full strength, but at 8-12oz/acre plus 4oz/ imox gets job done.

 

[yoderjac]

I have 14 acres with my house on it. This provides many struggles on the hunting side of things mostly because any kind of hunting plan takes a back seat to how I want my property to be in every aspect other than hunting. The pines were making me claustrophobic so I ended up clearing a bunch of land and that was not good for the small deer population I have (which I knew would be the case). I have included 2 maps one close and one afar. The outside border is entirely cleared now with the exception of the inside of the "U" to the west. The buildings to the north are camps, not homes. 1, 2, 4, 5 are all between 1/3 - 1/2 acre while 3 is about 3/4 acre. 2 1/2 acres total. The reason I feel the need to plant this much and break it up like I am is because the deer move through 1 & 2 north and south and 4 & 5 east and west. I can get completely different deer in these areas even though they are so close together.

6 I am just going to mow a few times per year and not plant anything for the animals since so close to the house. Seems like a wasted effort.

1 & 4 I want to plant perennial clover.

2 & 5 I want to plant perennial alfalfa.

3 I want to plant annuals - buckwheat in spring and oats/rye in the fall.

The brown strips are egyptian wheat to break things up a bit and put a screen between the plots and the house. With it being annual, I'm not locked into anything.

I may put a few fruit trees out there but I'm not jumping into anything like that any time soon.

I want to keep the open land open. I don't want any of it to grow back up to where I can't utilize the land or walk or ride on it if I'd like.

I also had a guy come in and thin a lot of the exterior so I can get hardwoods to grow so my perimeter is currently really thin in many spots except a couple areas that weren't worth his time and are very thick yet.

My pictures are pretty bad. Best I can do.

Any thoughts on my plan? Even a "yeah looks good" will be helpful.

First, I'd say noting you have done or will do will hurt the deer population. My retirement property is a total of 16 acres. About half was pasture and half old hardwoods. I've killed much of the fescue (cause I hate it) and planted WR & clover. I do plant some buckwheat in the spring for turkey to use in the summer. Nothing I've done or will do will help or hurt the local deer population. I shoot small bucks here as well as does. There is simply too little scale to have an impact. The 16 acre management is swamped by what happens on the surrounding1,000 acres.

There are a few things I can do to make the property more huntable, but the reality is that even that is limited on a homesite.

Instead, I focus my management efforts on the pine farm we have an interest in. There I can make some difference.