Hinge cutting Cedars?

EarthySpirit

5 year old buck +
I have 2 ridges on my new property comprised almost entirely of eastern red cedars. I'm debating about having them logged or hinge cutting for bedding. But I'm new to land management and I don't know if they hinge cut well or if I'd be better off logging them. My goal is to create cover for the deer to bed in. I have plenty of food elsewhere, I just need more bedding. Anyone have experience hinge-cutting cedars? Or would I be better off logging them and let new growth come in to provide cover in a couple years? thanks for the help.
 
I've only tried to huge cut one red cedar and it was a failure. That's just one tree so it's certainly not definitive. Maybe others have more experience. If thier big trees and worth $ I'd get someone to to give you an estimate.

Nothing wrong with cutting some and leaving them there. My deer will eat fresh cut red cedar, they may also bed among the downed ones and it will let sunlight hit the floor.

Don't know where you're located but one note on hinge cutting I don't see mentioned often is a north facing ridge. In my experience in MO regeneration is very slow on a deep N facing ridge.
 
Keep in mind if you need thermal cover, red cedars are a good tree for that purpose and if you cut them down, in many areas they will take a very long time to provide any new thermal cover due to their slow growth rate, especially as younger trees. From my perspective, this mainly applies to areas in the upper Midwest(I am in central WI, Zone 4b), not sure how fast they will regenerate in warmer climate zones. Arborday.org lists them as a medium growth rate tree at 13" to 24" per year, I can assure you that I have not seen that type of growth on young, regenerating, red cedar in areas I frequent. Large "adult" trees, maybe, but from seedlings and up to 8 feet can take a very long time.
 
They won't live but I've had some success hinging them. Works best if you land them on a another hinged tree. That said if the area is thick with cedars I think cutting some down and removing them might work better for getting sunlight to the ground and opening things up.
 
Thanks for feedback. I read where one person said they hinge-cut better than most trees, but other say they die. Hmmmm, so not sure who is the authority on this... Keep the help coming, because I don't want to make a big mistake. :)
 
I'm in northern Kentucky, by the way.
 
A couple days ago on a different thread I stated that evergreens cannot be hinge cut and have the hinge survive. Several other posters said that was wrong.

I'd like to see some pics of hinge cut evergreens where the tops have survived (and not the day they were cut, several months later)....because I don't think it's possible. The arrangement of phloem and xylem in evergreens is different than in deciduous trees. The base of the trees may survive, but the tops? I don't think so.

I will show you cedars in person Stu. I have some, not many, that are still alive 4 years after being hinged.

I have a video coming for you guys.
 
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Probably not a great tree to hinge, but you could open up pockets in the cedars ? Switchgrass and cedars together is some of the best bedding cover I have personally seen.
 
Here you go! Yes not a good tree to hinge but if they stay alive that help make a good screen.
 
Probably not a great tree to hinge, but you could open up pockets in the cedars ? Switchgrass and cedars together is some of the best bedding cover I have personally seen.
The last couple years I've been planting red cedars in and on the edges of my switch.
 
Here you go! Yes not a good tree to hinge but if they stay alive that help make a good screen.


Wow, thanks for taking the time to make the video!!! I may give it a try afterall. I have a wildlife biologist coming in a couple weeks to also give me some advice. I'd be interested to see his take. I'd love to make some good bedding with them if possible. And its looking like this is a real possibility.
 
If you want bedding, I would think the cedars would be it, unless they get so thick that the lower limbs die and they are barren underneath. I have scattered cedar trees, and don't cut any because they are deer magnets in NE MO.
 
If you can walk between the cedars with arms outstretched then you should get good grass growth,with that you will have good bedding cover.I am planting cedars every year
 
Thanks John, I wouldn't have believed it without seeing it.

I've hinged a large number of evergreens over the years and never saw any of them survive much past a few months. Most all of those were done on central WI on dry, sandy soil...maybe that has something to do with it.

Big thing is not to hinge any deeper than you have too. Pull the tree over rather than cut it so deep it falls over. But I think you already know that.
 
If you want bedding, I would think the cedars would be it, unless they get so thick that the lower limbs die and they are barren underneath. I have scattered cedar trees, and don't cut any because they are deer magnets in NE MO.
Thanks for the advice, Swat!
 
Everyone keeps talking about thermal cover. It may be important up north, But I don't think its as important here in NO MO.

Stu? Whip?
 
Here are the two ridges I want to hinge.
 

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Everyone keeps talking about thermal cover. It may be important up north, But I don't think its as important here in NO MO.

Stu? Whip?
I don't think its so important in KY either, but I could be wrong.
 
I would agree with stu. Anywhere in Zone 5 or above, winter thermal cover is not near as important as it is in Zones 4 and below. In the average year, you just do not have the sustained periods of very low temperatures, excessive wind chills, and deep snows that affect deer the way they do in the north. That is not saying it can't get down right nasty in areas like Northern MO, but those conditions are not sustained for a period long enough to completely affect the overall health of a deer population. Sure, you might lose a few weaker fawns or borderline sick deer, but almost all healthy whitetails will easily survive a N MO winter without much in the way of adverse affects to their health. As stu said, it is still a good idea to have pockets of thermal cover, and especially thermal cover that will slow down the high winds seen in some of those areas. Shelter belts and scattered pockets of conifers/evergreens(especially those situated on south facing slopes) serve this purpose quite well and are easily incorporated into a management plan on even smaller acreages.
 
Thanks for feedback. I read where one person said they hinge-cut better than most trees, but other say they die. Hmmmm, so not sure who is the authority on this... Keep the help coming, because I don't want to make a big mistake. :)

There is not really an "authority" on this as everyone is sharing opinions and experience. Keep in mind that what occurs on one property may not translate to another property. I tend to agree with Stu that cedars are not prone to living after a hinge cut. Mo has even commented that a cedar is more likely to die than live based on his experience.

I would be very reluctant to clear cut those 2 areas. First, they appear to be only ~ 1 acre each in size. they may be the thickest cover there which is important. Second, you have buildings and human activity with what looks to be only a couple hundred feet away. These cedars may be critical visual and sound barriers. They may also provide protection from the wind and sun.

Unless you have a number of good large seed bearing trees (oaks, maples, shrubs, etc.), after you clear cut, the most likely regen species will be cedar. Conifer needles in general tend to increase acidity in the soil so regen may be limited.

If this was my property, I would consider the following ...

Inspect the under story. If most of the lower branching is dead, low to the ground, and restricting movement, go in and thin some 10'-15' wide trails through the under story to approximately 6' above the ground. Create a few wider thinned spots also. Try to connect entry and exit areas away from the human activity and moving from the creek and to food sources. Then set-up some game cams to monitor activity.

You could also selectively thin an open area, say 40'-50' in one of these areas high enough on a south facing slope to see if deer will bed there. Once again thin an under story trail leading to and away from to allow access. You could see some grasses in there also. Then put out a game camera to monitor deer activity. You can also observe what if anything regen occurs.

For both of the above, you may be able to locate stand sites on the trail exit moving to food or returning to bedding. This could be a very good area for bucks scent checking during the rut.

Hinging is a practice that can't really be undone. In some cases, you can do more harm than good. Test hinging a few trees and observing for a few years might provide evidence of what you could expect.

At the end of the day, deer relate to thick cover. Most of us spend a lot of time and resources trying to create it. If you already have it, you are ahead of the game.

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