Hack and Squirt all around mix and translocation risk

DRG3

5 year old buck +
Good Morning,

I am continuing to (over)analyze my options for girdling and Hack and squirt for TSI. I have identified a section of about 1/2 acre on my land where I can learn, with minimal risk before I go into my larger section of woods. I am considering girdling of large trees and H&S of smaller ones.

As I read threads on here, I see lots of various H/S mix options. I understand there may be some species or labeling factors to that but my question is-
What is a good all around H/S herbicide for small to medium size trees?
Secondly- I am very worried about translocation killing good trees. over how large an area can a single tree translocate and is there a particular herbicide mix that limits translocation risk?

Thanks in Advance!
 
Download this booklet. It is a recent publication by Dr. Craig Harper who is an expert in this. It gives the ingredients and order of mixing them for his go to recipe which has been called the "Craig Harper Cocktail". Lots of other valuable information in this booklet. He has been not only researching this, but putting it into practice for a very long time over lots of land.

 
I have used Tordon in the past and THINK I killed some unintended trees. I cant prove that but i'm pretty sure it is soil active so...
 
Dont use Arsenal (Imazapyr). I have read plenty of instances of untreated trees harmed or killed. I saw it big time on my own place. 90% of untreated trees were defoliated by the following spring. Some are trying to come back. This includes hickories and post oak 18” in diameter
 
Thank you all. Good info
 
I put a link to that booklet, but I've actually had pretty good luck with 100% glyphosate in hack and squirt.
 
I put a link to that booklet, but I've actually had pretty good luck with 100% glyphosate in hack and squirt.
Thats interesting. I'm assuming there wouldn't be any translocating concerns with gly?
 
Thats interesting. I'm assuming there wouldn't be any translocating concerns with gly?
I haven't seen it happen and I've done a good bit on some areas where roots were bound to be touching or intertwined.
 
I haven't seen it happen and I've done a good bit on some areas where roots were bound to be touching or intertwined.
is the gly species specific, or does it kill most species?
 
is the gly species specific, or does it kill most species?
I imagine there are some with tolerances, but I wouldn't start trying to kill them until you identify them. Right now, with leaves out, on 1/2 acre, you should be able to identify every species. You don't have to actually know them by sight right now, but you could take photos and work on identifying them. You still have plenty of time before they lose their leaves.
 
I use a drill and 1/2 inch spade bit along with a ketchup bottle from dollar tree mixed with 41 percent Gly concentrate. I add 15 percent water to help with translocation. Hardest species to kill in my experience are black walnut and black gum.

I do this primarily in the winter and drill holes at a downward angle. If you imagine the tree as a clock, I drill the holes from 4 o’clock to 2 o’clock and 8 o’clock to 10 o’clock positions. I am standing at the 6 o’clock position. Key here is to keep as much of the drilled hole in the cambium since that’s whats going to move the herbicide. The middle of the tree doesn’t do anything in this instance.

Most trees leaf out in the spring then brown and whither. By mid summer the results are clear. On larger trees I will also drill and fill a few spots on exposed surface roots, seems to help.

No issues thus far with any off target kills.
 
Download this booklet. It is a recent publication by Dr. Craig Harper who is an expert in this. It gives the ingredients and order of mixing them for his go to recipe which has been called the "Craig Harper Cocktail". Lots of other valuable information in this booklet. He has been not only researching this, but putting it into practice for a very long time over lots of land.

I'm about half way through reading this and so far, I would highly recommend it to anyone who is new at this like me. Very well written and understandable, even to me.
 
I have used Tordon in the past and THINK I killed some unintended trees. I cant prove that but i'm pretty sure it is soil active so...
Tordon does have residual soil action. H/S with Triclopyr (Garlon) has no residual soil activity.
 
I am continuing to (over)analyze my options for girdling and Hack and squirt for TSI. I have identified a section of about 1/2 acre on my land where I can learn, with minimal risk before I go into my larger section of woods. I am considering girdling of large trees and H&S of smaller ones.

As I read threads on here, I see lots of various H/S mix options. I understand there may be some species or labeling factors to that but my question is-
What is a good all around H/S herbicide for small to medium size trees?
Secondly- I am very worried about translocation killing good trees. over how large an area can a single tree translocate and is there a particular herbicide mix that limits translocation risk?
My camp was told by a state forester that we don't have to H/S to kill our unwanted trees. He told us to just apply Triclopyr (generic Garlon) by "basal bark spraying." He told us to spray from the soil level up to about 2 ft. above ground all the way around the trunks. The spray gets absorbed through the bark. He suggested adding blue dye to the tank spray mixture so we know where we sprayed. The dye is readily available from online vendors and many ag supply stores. The dye is VERY concentrated - a little goes a long way - read the instructions if you use the dye.
 
My camp was told by a state forester that we don't have to H/S to kill our unwanted trees. He told us to just apply Triclopyr (generic Garlon) by "basal bark spraying." He told us to spray from the soil level up to about 2 ft. above ground all the way around the trunks. The spray gets absorbed through the bark. He suggested adding blue dye to the tank spray mixture so we know where we sprayed. The dye is readily available from online vendors and many ag supply stores. The dye is VERY concentrated - a little goes a long way - read the instructions if you use the dye.
^^^^^^^^ 20%Remedy( triclopyr)/80% diesel in a backpack sprayer and you are a sweetgum assassin.......

bill
 
I’ve hack and squirted hundreds of trees and can say with good confidence I’ve never had translocation even though I wish I had.
 
I cut a grape vine off a walnut years ago and put Tordon RTU on its stump pretty sure it killed that walnut tree so some caution is warranted at least with Tordon
 
Itcan be relatively easy to over apply tordon rtu with the squirt bottle.

In NY, it's hard to get anything toher than 2,4D or Gly. For years I have just chainsaw girdled and applied straight diesel oil.

Grape vines...... I recently cleaned up my home's backyard drainage. I chopped several grape vines, they have been drooling in the ditch for 2 months now. They might be a good canddate for just diesel. IT doesnt always kill them, but kills more than it doesn't.

Also, certain vines dig roots into the host tree. I think cutting certain vines makes the vine attack the tree even more. Poison Ivy is one that does it here in NY. Apply weed killer very carefully.

Soak a little diesel in a paper towel, put a bag over it, and tape the bag on the vine.
 
Soak a little diesel in a paper towel, put a bag over it, and tape the bag on the vine.
I’ll have try this trick!
 
I’ll have try this trick!
I actually dip the vine in a small bottle of diesel, then leave a soaked rag in the bag. Diesel prevents the flow of water through the cambrium layer, added herbicide seals the deal even more.
 
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