Give it time or start over?

trampledbyturtles

5 year old buck +
Im in an interesting dilemma, an Im not sure how to proceed, was hoping for some advice on an old apple planting.

Little long winded, plz stick with me,

About ten years ago, Dad an I planted 12 apple trees into 2 different locations.
At the time we lived over an hour away, an until recently, live close enough to take care of them.

They were essentially the first none-crab apple fruit tree planting out there. And to say they were left to their own devices is an understatement.

Here is a list of all they have suffered through

1 - planted way to deep, most are sitting in bowls, initial reasoning was that it would help collect water, cause rain can be sparse at times.
2 - no weed barriers or weeding after planting.
3 - No pruning or yearly maintenance
4 - no fertilizer
5 - no supplemental watering
6 - no fungicides, lots of CAR
7 - the initial snow fences meant to protect them, did not hold up past a couple years, and they suffered a decent amount of browsing pressure. And in the end, almost smothered a few from restricting growth.
8 - no painting of the trucks, most have some level of sun scald
9 - no screen to protect from rabbits or mice.

Surprisingly there are some survivors. This year to try an save face, they all received five star care. All the fences replaced an properly staked, fertilized, sprayed with fungicide, pruned, painted an screened. Plus watered weekly to try re-kick start them.

In the west orchard 4 out of 5 died an were all replaced this spring. The lone survivor looked decent, with a bad case of sun scald though, and am going to give him a chance to see how he responds next year.

The north Orchard is a little more complicated, only 1 was replaced outright. 1 was severely stunted, but came back surprisingly well once given some space to grow. 2 Are growing just fine an should produce apples next spring after another pruning I would hope.

That leaves 3 oddballs
1 - tall an spindly goofy bugger (8-9ft tall) with almost no branching the bottom 6 ft, and just a branch or 2 the top, he was the first to turn yellow an sickly looking this fall while everyone else still held green leaves.
2 - a short stunted little guy less than 3ft tall, that looks like the leader was snapped in half a long time ago, started to regrow a single branch above the graft, made ok growth this spring. But will have to do major surgery to remove the old growth this spring.
3 - another tall lanky goofy looky fella, still growing but my trees planted this spring look way better than this fella.

So that is the dilemma, I have an extra 4 trees on order for this next spring.

Do I cut my loses on those 3 trees, and just start over.
Or do I give them a chance, with the hope being that after 10 yrs of root development. They should be able to respond and put on growth faster.

Hear quite often the first five years are the most important, so not really sure what ten years of neglect will do to long term prospects.

I initially wanted to just replace after seeing how well my trees did this year

But on some level want to keep them, seeing as how its a project Dad an I did.

In the end I want the to make the right long-term management decision.

Thoughts?
An for all those still reading, thz for sticking with it.
 
I would certainly keep any survivors - if they can make it without any assistance they are good trees to keep around since they must be tough. You will likely see some improvements with the work you did on them. Can you throw any mulch or rotten hay around the trees to kill off weed competition and build up the soil a bit? Herbicides work too, but I think building the soil with mulch is a better long term option if available. Have you ever taken a soil test there? I'm wondering if the pH is off and a little lime would help things out too.

One thing to keep in mind is if those original trees were planted on dwarfing rootstock you might never see the success you are hoping for. Do you know what kind of rootstock they have? My first fruit tree plantings were done in 2007, which was before I knew anything about rootstocks. These first few trees planted were on dwarf rootstocks and still today they just barely hang on despite getting the same care as the rest of the trees. I can't bring myself to cut down those original trees though, so to hedge my bets I planted a generic seedling apple in the same cages as the dwarf trees. My thinking is that that $3 apple seedling will take a number of years to grow and by that time the dwarf trees will either die off or start improving. Either way I'll have a big tree in that cage 10 years from now and maybe 2.
 
Thz for the reply,

a little more info, I put down fabric to suppress weeds, but do like the idea of mulching to help build the soils up.

Rootstock are all standard, they were meant to be full sized trees, all from the State NRCS
As far as variety, no clue outside of one tree that I found a old tag buried in old growth at the base of the tree, Fireside.

Soil pH I cant be certain but I know it is somewhere between 6.2 and 7.4 runs more basic that acidic.
 
Last edited:
Mulch is good for soil building, but can also provide home/nest/tunneling material for mice & voles. At my camp, we put weed fabric down first, then covered the fabric with 4" of crushed limestone to keep weeds down and mice/voles away. I put a circle of aged mushroom soil around the perimeter of the fabric/stone each spring. The compost is more at the drip line.

If we used only mulch around our trees, they'd all be girdled and dead by now. We have lots of mice and voles.
 
If it was me all the tall lanky trees I'd cut back to about 5 or 6 feet. May get them to produce branches and hopefully give them time to put on some girth especially now your talking better care of them.
 
Neahawg, anyway you could explain how to go about that without doing more damage than good.

Im assuming you cut the central leader back down to a lower bud, or does that not matter?
I like your idea because the trees are already leaning currently with very little top growth as is because it was forced to grow to fast because it was restricted width wise due to snow fence binding it from the sides.
 
Just wait for everything to go dormant than late this winter in Feb or March cut the central leader back to one of the buds at a slight angle.
 
thz, kinda what I figured.

What happens if there is very little bud growth in the region that I am looking to cut back to?

And what about, cutting it back an removing the two small braches on the lover half, essentially turning the tree back into whip form?
Any issues?
 
I remove any branch below 5 feet. When you prune it as long as you have one bud you should be good.
 
Thought id revist this and share a quick update.
Tree #2 from the OP
Wish i didnt loose my camera with a pic from the start.
Turning into a decent tree considering it was about dead an just a single half foot live branch a little up from the graft.
Threw blossums this year.
20190602_100424.jpg

Glad I took some advice an tried to revive them first.
#1 looks ok
#3 died that fall
 
Nice!
Have you fertilized them at all yet?
 
Nice!
Have you fertilized them at all yet?

They got a cup of gypsum and a cup of ams this spring.

But am slowly transitioning away from using chemical fertilizers altogether.

In the home orchard I am using biodynamic prinicles so no fungicides or insecticides either. Still learning but like what I am seeing so far.

Seeing good growth as is so dont see the need to push the tree beyond what it wants to grow in a year.

Do use organinc fertilizers tho
Started another batch of nettle tea today.

20190623_152319.jpg
 
Top