Emla 111 vs Bud 118

BobinCt

5 year old buck +
I ordered varieties from Cummins on Bud 118 and ordered some from ACN on Emla 111 because they didn't have Bud 118 on the varieties I was looking for. My question is, is there a big difference between the two? I'm growing strictly for wildlife only but really wanted to get all Bud 118.
 
B118 does better on poor soils, in my experience. I have very sandy soil and B.118 does pretty well all things considered.
 
If you have heavier soils m111 work better. I think typically b118 will produce quicker than m111, and much of what I've read says it will yield a bigger tree.
 
I got the same info from the head of Penn State's Horticultural Dept. ^^^^ He recommended MM-111 for heavier soils, too. It grows a tree about 80% of standard. B-118 is reported to grow a tree 80 to 90% of standard and is more cold-hardy, and it's widely adapted to a variety of soils. We have both rootstocks on our trees at camp and they are both growing well. Our soil is clayish - loam. FWIW.
 
Thx for replies guys. I appreciate the feedback. After this year , I officially ran out of room for apple trees/pear trees. What an addiction.
 
I went all emla 111 this year from ACN. I do have 3 trees on emla7 I got from the conservation district that are growing well
 
Charman - What varieties did you get from ACN ??
 
from ACN I went with
Liberty
Enterprise
Galarina
Crimson Crisp
wanted a freedom too but they were out. Any feedback on these varieties?

Conservation District trees are Liberty, Goldrush and Initial for this year. I already have these varities in the ground from prior years and the trees look good.

Im also thinking about transplanting a young chestnut and all winter hangover from one property to another where they will be better off.
 
I hear pretty good things about the crimson crisp. Obviously Liberty, Enterprise and Goldrush are already pretty well documented around here. Initial looks like a really nice apple as well.
 
^^^^^^ Yep - Liberty, Enterprise, Goldrush are all growing well for us. We also planted a couple Galarina last year and they took off pretty well for us. No signs of problems. We don't have Crimson Crisp or Initial.
 
Wanted to give this mm111 vs b118 a bump

Many of us have both plus a lil longevity on our trees now. I was curious if anyone has noticed any advantages of one over the other. What’s the verdict?

It’s time to order rootstock an I can’t make up my mind:)
 
Several of my 5th leaf b118 trees are a lil tipsy. I don’t have any older mm111 trees to compare to at this site. Looking order another 50 rootstock. Leaning towards mm111.
 
We have both at camp that are going to be 8th leaf this spring. B-118 trees have a FEW leaners. MM-111 trees are solid and straight, as are our Antonovka-rooted trees. MM-111 is listed and recommended for heavier, clayish, less well-drained soils.

After the initial plantings on MM-111 and B-118 in the first couple years (2013 and 2014) I went more with Antonovka and P-18 roots to get full-sized, standard trees because of our bear population. The early MM-111 and B-118 trees were to get some earlier fruiting, as opposed to Ant. and P-18 trees which take up to 10 years to fruit. We have a nice mix of MM-111, B-118, Antonovka, and P-18 trees, with some producing fruit and others not quite yet.
 
I have a combination of B118 & Antonovka. I went with B118 after a lot of research as well as looking through CrazyEd’s posts & experiences since my trees are being planted on very similar sandy ground. Trees are young but growing well so far. From what I’ve read, M111 would be better with heavier soils. I did have a year I bought M111 and almost every single one of them died after grafting for some weird reason...
 
I have a combination of B118 & Antonovka. I went with B118 after a lot of research as well as looking through CrazyEd’s posts & experiences since my trees are being planted on very similar sandy ground. Trees are young but growing well so far. From what I’ve read, M111 would be better with heavier soils. I did have a year I bought M111 and almost every single one of them died after grafting for some weird reason...

Same thing happened to me. I think it was about 2 years ago.
 
What do you all mean by "heavy soils"? You mean clay? I read the same things and planted m111 in relatively "heavy" clay soils, and they did not thrive, and most died. Then I read that B118 does better in "heavy soils" because it tolerates wet conditions better, which seems to happen every year when the snow melts on the clay soils.

The next rootstocks I plant will be B118 and A2. And I'm probably going to plant half of them without grafting and just field graft them at a later time.
 
I jumped on the B118 bandwagon several years ago and that was a mistake. Several trees are leaning to the point they need to be propped up. B118 just doesn’t produce good roots on my clay soils. I also have several trees on M111 and although it is supposed to have some collar rot resistance I can tell you that I’ve lost some M111 trees due to collar rot. Lately I’m grafting trees on P18 and dolgo roots and I like what I see so far. Trees are vigorous and well rooted with no root disease so far.


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M111 is my go-to rootstock, I’ve got loamy heavy clay and it’s done very good for me.

I have some P18 that is doing OK and some dwarfing G222 and G210 because it’s all I could find at the time in varieties I wanted but have since grafted scions from them to M111 to get tree size and rootstock benefits I am after.
 
b118 on heavy clay and/or low damp ground has not done well for me. Leaners and poor growth
 
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