Caging Trees in a 2022 Economy

TheGroveEstate

5 year old buck +
Looking for advice on best practices when it comes to caging trees for protection, in the current inflated economy where 150' rolls of remesh wire are going for $230-$280 a piece.
- Diameter; small enough to yield high cage counts per roll, while not screwing yourself for future growth of the tree
- Height; 5' standard? 4' could save $$ but is it worth the risk?
- Anchoring; T-posts, rebar, pipe, zip-ties, tie wire, copper, etc....
- Weed Control; Weed mat vs. no weed mat + spraying herbicide?
- Mulch vs. bare earth?
- 2" x 4" 14 gauge welded wire vs. 10 gauge remesh wire?

There is a lot of information scattered throughout random threads, but I thought one dedicated thread would be helpful. Thanks!
 
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Oh boy I’m popping some popcorn for this one the knives will be flying.
 
I bought 16 100' rolls of 4' tall 4"x2" this spring for less than $80/roll if i recall correctly. Cant say if 4' is sufficient for fruit and oak trees but should be fine for the spruce.

Bought a bunch of 300'x4' rolls of fabric for the most economical mats cut into 4x4 squares. 48" tall 3/8" round steel electric fence posts to hold the cage (were $1.50 ea this spring). Install upside down and bend the triangle to grab the cage. Just used a pliers to tie the cage to itself.

still haven't gotten mulch placed yet..
 
Find a small Ag supply mom/pop type store you may be able to score some old priced wire of your choice. I scored a 1/4 mile of cattle fencing like that last fall.
 
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I have used 5' tall remesh cut into 8-10' sections (now wildly expensive) as well as 2"x4"x5' fencing. Had to use pretty good sized T posts at $350-$5.00 a piece on some of the remesh (tried the biggest landscape pins I could find, but they don't stick for very long).
For the 2"x4", I used 2 plastic coated steel rods that were ~4' tall and I intertwined them with the 2"x4" fencing and this has worked very well. Out of 57 trees done this way, I have had 1 blow over in 3 months. I zip tied the fencing to the steel rods.
As for weed mat, I bought a 100' roll that was 4' wide and cut it into 4' sections. I have used pins as well as logs and rocks to hold the weed mat down
The logs and rocks are free and probably work better than the pins. I don't use mulch, but do use limestone screening around my fruit trees.
 
Free junk woven wire for the past couple years. Works for me and price is right.

Gave up on remesh a number of years back for a couple of reasons.
 
I'd take a giant step back and assess what's the best use of your time and habitat dollars. I'm very anti-tree planting. That being said, I do a little tree planting and tree work, but for the most part do not plan/plant anything that's gonna be expensive, labor intensive, high maintenance, and may not fit the zone, site, or local challenges (bears, rabbits, mice).

I will move trees around my property. I ripped out a hundred spruce and fir that germinated on or near my land and relocated them to other parts. I've caged some naturally occuring dogwoods. I even planted and caged some white pines in my yard. But otherwise, if it cannot go with that amount of help or an application of sunlight, I don't do it. The natural landscape has lots of good in it already. It just needs a gentle nudge to tip the system in your favor. The smaller the nudge, the smaller the backlash.

My go to mindset on all of that is this: "If it ain't there already, it's probably not meant to be there."
 
I’ve hunted to many deer over fruit trees to not plant some for the long haul on a property that are not native (apple/pear) but I also plant native oaks for the really really long haul that my great grandchildren will still be hunting over.
 
The cheapest remesh you will find is dumpster diving at construction sites. Go find a subdivision under construction and keep an eye on the dumpsters. You will be surprised how much gets thrown away. I find 10-50 foot pieces all the time. I collect it whenever I see it and by the time I start planting in the fall, I usually have enough for my needs.
 
My advice is buy the 5 ft fence, weed fabric, stone instead of much and posts ( I use 10 ft electric conduit piles cut in half). Buy what is within your budget or reasonable to you because in my opinion, young fruit trees need all the above. Without fencing, my trees would never last. Plant some each year, they all don’t need to be put in -in one year . I wouldn’t short cut any steps.
 
I went with the 2x4 welded wire with my last purchase. I cut it into 8 foot pieces and wind the end around the beginning when making the circle. I went with the 4 foot stuff, but that doesn't mean I have to leave branches lower than with the 5' remesh. I'm too cheap to use weed mats, and I don't really mind weeds as long as they aren't turf grasses.
 
We used plastic deer fencing and 3 t-posts to make some cheap cages before we realized it was just better to buy the remesh. The netting works but isn't quite as convenient for maintenance. Never had a deer break through the netting and it did its job.
 

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I have used chicken wire where I am at the deer don’t seem to browse fruit trees here but rub them. Couple 1/2 pvc posts and chicken wire is enough to deter them but they have plenty of alternatives to eat also.


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I've used everything I think over the past 28 years here including chicken wire, 4' high welded wire as well as 5' and 6' welded wire for cages. I don't cage conifers - although at one time if we wanted a naturally seeded White Pine to survive we did have to cage if for 2-3 years. Now, with a more normal deer density it isn't necessary.

Here is my take on it. I will never use chicken wire again for cages. Those that I still have out there on some young crabapples will be scrapped wihen I step up to 4' or 5' welded wire 2x4 cages.

I will never buy 4' high welded wire again either. It can be somewhat successful if you make it wide enough but I prefer to have them a little narrower. I can get double the number of cages from 5' high wire than I can get from 4' high because I don't have to make them as wide.

I am still using 6' high 2x4 welded wire for cages that I originally purchased in 1995 and I will continue to reuse it, but I won't purchase any more.

I have decided that for what I am doing, 5' high welded wire is the ideal size. I just purchased 2 more 50' rolls of it today to cage some Red Osier Dogwoods that are coming out of the tops of the tubes. If I simply remove the tubes and leave them on their own the deer will devastate them. If I cage them for a few years the deer can still browse around the outside of the cages every year but they won't kill the plants.

I have used lots of T-Posts and rebar in the past and I still reuse those as well but for the past several years all I have purchased is 10' sections of 1/2" EMT conduit and cut them in half.

I initially used 20' of 6' welded wire for each individual apple tree so I still use those for new apple trees I plant (although I am about done planting new apple trees).

These days I am using cages for oak trees I start from acorns - once they come out of the tubes, a couple dozen ROD, and crabapples - some of which I started from seed and some seedlings which I purchased.

Yes - there is more than one way to skin a cat, and yes, caging trees is "high maintenance" but in some cases it is necessary. For example, we named our farm "Lone Oak" as there was only a single Northern Red Oak on the entire 160 acres when we purchased it. I have planted several hundred oaks since then and while I am just beginning to get acorns from trees I have planted, some day, somewhere down the line, somebody is going to really appreciate what I have done by planting them now. That is what keeps me doing the things I do. Trying to be a good steward of the land and leave it in better condition than it was when I acquired it.

For oaks I almost always start out with acorns - this is the cheapest part of growing an oak tree LOL
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Sometimes I direct seed the acorns in their permanent locations but I also start acorns in Rootmaker Express cells
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at the end of summer if I haven't planted them in their permanent locations they will go in one of the raised boxes in my wife's garden for the winter and are then transplanted in spring
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They are tubed as soon as they are planted but eventually they will grow out of the 4' tubes. If I had it to do over I would have purchased all 5' tubes.
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I leave them in the tubes for another couple of years even after I cage them as they are too wimpy to stand on their own. The tubes need to be removed each spring in order to clean out the fallen leaves and to remove the lower branches. I keep trimming the branches until the lowest branch is above the tube.
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When they can stand on their own and the lower branches are well above ground level the cages can be removed and reused on another tree
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10' lengths of 1/2" EMT Conduit - cut in half gives me 5' stakes
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More of the 6' welded wire which has been reused and repurposed since 1995. For oaks and shrubs I cut the wire to a little over 6' lengths and wire it together to give me about 2' diameter cages. I get 8 cages from a 50' roll of wire.
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Uncaged trees like this would be browsed to the top of the tube and never grow any higher.
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More of the old 6' high cages being used on yet another apple tree...


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Tubing and caging trees is expensive and labor intensive until the tree is big enough to make it on its own but it has to be done. If there is any saving grace is that if you do only what you can handle each year, you can reuse the tubes, fencing and stakes many times over.
 
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I’ve hunted to many deer over fruit trees to not plant some for the long haul on a property that are not native (apple/pear) but I also plant native oaks for the really really long haul that my great grandchildren will still be hunting over.
Don't confuse my method with not taking a vested interest in what's happening in the woods. I try to spend a week in the woods with the chainsaw each year after gun season closes. I'm always working on flattening my sanctuary, leaving the desirables stand, moving spruce and balsam into places they can get light, making brush piles for birds to deposit cherry, dogwood, and viburnum seeds. I think I enjoy that most of all the habitat things. The weather is great, nothing ever fails, and all it costs me is some calories, chain sharpening, and fuel and oil.

After 6 years of doing varying degrees of that, I'm getting ahead on browse, so much that my unprotected native dogwoods are producing seed heads all over the property. I've got some natural ROD strategically caged throughout the property to be satellite seed producers, and they are also loaded this year. My north plot looks like a big pie with one piece left. I keep what I call the feature on that slice to make deer walk around, and give me some visual cover going to the blind.

I took all the aspen, ash, and too tall firs out. Now it's viburnum, dogwood, basswood, maple, birch, bur oak, chokecherry, stump sprouts, and volunteer spruces and firs under 10'. I'm hoping I can luck my way to some native juneberry also getting pooped into it. It's kind of a pain because it's getting so thick I can't see anything through it. Every single stem above 3 feet is a desirable, and I didn't plant any of it. I just subtracted a few things and added sunlight. I even kicked a spike buck out of it last weekend when I was out liming. Come mid October into November, the grouse are in and out there every time I'm in the blind. This coming winter, I'm probably going to have to cut out a few more spruce and fir as they climb out of the ground cover range and produce too much shade.
 
Don't confuse my method with not taking a vested interest in what's happening in the woods. I try to spend a week in the woods with the chainsaw each year after gun season closes. I'm always working on flattening my sanctuary, leaving the desirables stand, moving spruce and balsam into places they can get light, making brush piles for birds to deposit cherry, dogwood, and viburnum seeds. I think I enjoy that most of all the habitat things. The weather is great, nothing ever fails, and all it costs me is some calories, chain sharpening, and fuel and oil.

After 6 years of doing varying degrees of that, I'm getting ahead on browse, so much that my unprotected native dogwoods are producing seed heads all over the property. I've got some natural ROD strategically caged throughout the property to be satellite seed producers, and they are also loaded this year. My north plot looks like a big pie with one piece left. I keep what I call the feature on that slice to make deer walk around, and give me some visual cover going to the blind.

I took all the aspen, ash, and too tall firs out. Now it's viburnum, dogwood, basswood, maple, birch, bur oak, chokecherry, stump sprouts, and volunteer spruces and firs under 10'. I'm hoping I can luck my way to some native juneberry also getting pooped into it. It's kind of a pain because it's getting so thick I can't see anything through it. Every single stem above 3 feet is a desirable, and I didn't plant any of it. I just subtracted a few things and added sunlight. I even kicked a spike buck out of it last weekend when I was out liming. Come mid October into November, the grouse are in and out there every time I'm in the blind. This coming winter, I'm probably going to have to cut out a few more spruce and fir as they climb out of the ground cover range and produce too much shade.

Wow! Sounds like you have a great plan for managing native habitat SD. I really need to step up my game in that area. Looks like I could use a few tips from you.
 
Wow! Sounds like you have a great plan for managing native habitat SD. I really need to step up my game in that area. Looks like I could use a few tips from you.
It is very rewarding. The woods is absolutely quiet and empty that time of year. No gun shots, dogs barking, tannerite blasts, side by sides roaring up and down trails whatsoever. It also forces you to go and look at every single stem out there, and know how to ID everything.

I haven't planted any bur oak, but I have liberated well over a hundred that were already 6-12' tall. What is the value of 100 bur oaks over six feet tall if a guy had to buy them? And how long would it take to plant them, water them, and cage them? And how many could you lose?

Same goes for native spruce and fir, well over a thousand of them have been given sunlight and a chance. I keep a rough count in my head each day of how many of each desirable species I found and opened up to the sun. I have a dozen naturally occuring large white cedars finally getting light. Hundreds of birch from 10-20' tall now getting full sun. I found a chokecherry cluster with about 30 young trees in it. I spent half an hour putting the sunlight to them. I'm finally getting some maple and jewelweed regen in the heart of my brush and log tangles where the deer cannot reach.

I took a bunch of the ash logs and made wide V-shaped beds under balsams in the sanctuary that open up to the south, and they used them right away last winter. I took a bunch of the ash to split for camp fire cooking wood. I'm also using large aspen logs to make raised garden bed rails this summer. The top half will be cut up and buried under the garden beds. Nothing gets wasted, some of it just does more good on the ground or in a pile protecting something else. The stump sprouting out there is off the charts too.

My second most favorite habitat time is in the spring after all that stuff has pushed new growth for the season. There is so much out there already working that just needs that little extra touch to unleash it's potential.
 
Looking for advice on best practices when it comes to caging trees for protection, in the current inflated economy where 150' rolls of remesh wire are going for $230-$280 a piece.
- Diameter; small enough to yield high cage counts per roll, while not screwing yourself for future growth of the tree
- Height; 5' standard? 4' could save $$ but is it worth the risk?
- Anchoring; T-posts, rebar, pipe, zip-ties, tie wire, copper, etc....
- Weed Control; Weed mat vs. no weed mat + spraying herbicide?
- Mulch vs. bare earth?
- 2" x 4" 14 gauge welded wire vs. 10 gauge remesh wire?

There is a lot of information scattered throughout random threads, but I thought one dedicated thread would be helpful. Thanks!
IMO, you're better off planting fewer trees that you can take proper care of than planting a bunch and skimping. I'm guilty of that every year!
 
It is very rewarding. The woods is absolutely quiet and empty that time of year. No gun shots, dogs barking, tannerite blasts, side by sides roaring up and down trails whatsoever. It also forces you to go and look at every single stem out there, and know how to ID everything.

I haven't planted any bur oak, but I have liberated well over a hundred that were already 6-12' tall. What is the value of 100 bur oaks over six feet tall if a guy had to buy them? And how long would it take to plant them, water them, and cage them? And how many could you lose?

Same goes for native spruce and fir, well over a thousand of them have been given sunlight and a chance. I keep a rough count in my head each day of how many of each desirable species I found and opened up to the sun. I have a dozen naturally occuring large white cedars finally getting light. Hundreds of birch from 10-20' tall now getting full sun. I found a chokecherry cluster with about 30 young trees in it. I spent half an hour putting the sunlight to them. I'm finally getting some maple and jewelweed regen in the heart of my brush and log tangles where the deer cannot reach.

I took a bunch of the ash logs and made wide V-shaped beds under balsams in the sanctuary that open up to the south, and they used them right away last winter. I took a bunch of the ash to split for camp fire cooking wood. I'm also using large aspen logs to make raised garden bed rails this summer. The top half will be cut up and buried under the garden beds. Nothing gets wasted, some of it just does more good on the ground or in a pile protecting something else. The stump sprouting out there is off the charts too.

My second most favorite habitat time is in the spring after all that stuff has pushed new growth for the season. There is so much out there already working that just needs that little extra touch to unleash it's potential.

Sounds like you are doing a great job SD - and you've given me some ideas for things I can do on my property.

What state are you from? I am in Upper Michigan. Snow can get pretty deep in winter but I could do a lot of those things in spring.
 
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