Building a Tree Row

Jonathan

Yearling... With promise
I am looking into planting a 1800 foot tree row, it will be outside the reach of the end gun of an irrigation pivot and I will be able to install a drip system for irrigation. This will be mostly shrub type stuff to discourage the predatory birds roosting and picking off my grouse and pheasants. Has anyone planted something like this or have any advice on what not to do?
 
Alot will depend on your soil type, average rainfall, and grow zone.

Good places to start researching.
 
What state and what is the purpose?
 
I am in a dry part of south central Montana, but I do have plenty of irrigation water available and good soil. I also will be putting a drip system in. I was thinking Buffalo berry, juniper and maybe choke cherrys. Not sure on amount of rows, but thinking 3-4.
 
I put shrub strips in six years ago, planted four rows east to west around 400+ yards long ten foot apart and at the one end of those four rows north to south 300 yards long spaced the same. From the air looks like a big L boxing in two sides of our pasture. Our soil is loamy clay with decent rainfall.
We planted;
High bush Cranberry
ROD
Gray dogwood
Pinoak
Winterberry
Hazelnut
Crab apple
Chokecherry
Elderberry
Indian currant
Ninebark
Nannyberry
Plums

Still adding new things to them as we go along.

Theory was to grow an old school thick fence row type border with everything in it being nuts/berries/ fruit or browse for wildlife. So far it has worked out good, with the volume we planted was unrealistic to try and protect it all so deer and mice have been hard on the rows but it is getting ahead of them now. Some spots are thin others exactly like we dreamed of having.
Some stuff is bushy and 2’ tall some stuff 8’ tall now, deer turkeys and pheasant travel between the rows year round..looks like it is going to work out as planned just took a lot longer than expected.
 
Planted several tree rows. Borrow or rent a tree planter. The one we used was basically a single bottom plow with a seat and a tree box, then behind it is a wheel that moves the soil back into the plow groove. Sit on the box, drop seedlings into the groove at your spacing, let it cover the roots back up. Easy peazy.
 
We have done this many times in Minnesota and Iowa.. are you more interested in pheasants or deer?
 
We have done this many times in Minnesota and Iowa.. are you more interested in pheasants or deer?
I am more interested in pheasants, but i do have a large deer population which will cause some problems, I intend to run a couple of hot wires around it to discourage them and the elk from destroying it.
 
I like Chokecherry, Plum, Crabapple, Spruce, Cedar, Pine … if you go with one row of hardwoods (oak) would be my choice.

The pheasants get picked off by predators argument is over blown. They like shelter belts and thrive in them.

That being said, you would not need a tall oak, maple, cottonwood for good habitat .8D95BCD9-1694-49E3-9957-3FF8C69795A6.jpeg
 
Do you have a state forestry?I would talk to them about shrubs that don't need protected from deer,example In Kansas sand hill plum is a great shrub and even if a deer rubs it,they come right back.Unless you are in a dry part you may not need to water except first year
 
I am very interested in the irrigation.

Where do you plan on buying your system?

Do you want any scarlet oak seedlings?

I have over 50 I am not needing.
 
I am very interested in the irrigation.

Where do you plan on buying your system?

Do you want any scarlet oak seedlings?

I have over 50 I am not needing.
I have a local irrigation supply house that is designing the drip system for me. When we installed the irrigation pivot we had them oversize the pump to allow me to utilize that pump to supply my drip system.
 
Some of the input I am looking for is row spacing and tree spacing. I was thinking of 16’ between rows to aid in ease of weed control until grasses establish themselves. Another question is continuous weed mat or squares around the trees? Should I vary the trees in rows or plant blocks of similar trees and shrubs?
 
Many states publish windbreak and shelterbelt planting pamphlets. I would Google for your area to see what kinds of plants are suited for you location vs. taking advice on what others have planted. You can usually find a pdf to download.

On a few of your other questions it's easier to stick with planting the same type within a row but than vary stuff between rows or every couple of rows. Spacing between rows is in the 12-15 ft range which also allows easier mowing between to help establishment the first several yrs. Spacing within the row really depends on what is planted. Small shrubs might be 4-6 ft while larger stuff is 8-10 ft Good luck!

Here is a pic from a WI publication that also includes some small shrubs 50 ft in front for a snow trap
PXL_20221026_181537332.jpg
 
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I'm curious how the irrigation is coming along?
I live an hour from my property and don't want to spend my time watering trees. We planted 52 pines along the highway. I have access to surface water part way down the line of trees. I'm going with low rate drippers so everything can be small, cheap, and easy. 1 gallon per hour drippers x 52 is less than 1 gallon per minute. So I'm using 1/2" irrigaiton tubing as the main waterline, with 1/4" taps putting a dripper on each tree.

Earlier this week we got far enough along to connect a 12v diaphram pump to a generator and it had water coming out of all the drippers. Once I'm comfortable its working I'll get a 100w solar panel, battery, charge controller, and timer. Then I'll just check on it occasionally to make sure the drippers aren't plugged or chewed on.

IMG_2500.JPGIMG_2503.JPGIMG_2504.JPG
 
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I laid my 1/2 inch tubing on the groundand had to quit using drippers because of the sand in my water so i just use the barbs.50 is very doable as I did 50 each direction out of a 275 gal tote.I got my new controller from backwoods solar after a recommendation from here.I don't use solar on my irrigation but would be interested how well it works.i just use 2 of the sump pumps that have a garden hose outlet and drop in tote plug into a generator.Hope to get laid out on new orchard as soon as i get my vitalize seed planted in orchard
 
I have never planted specifically for Pheasants or Grouse but have for Turkey so its close and you got me to look it up for Montana. This seemed like a good starting point (below). Windbreaks in the winter, cereal grains for food source and cover for nesting seem to be the main concerns. As long as you have a water supply, it seems all you need is a money for trees and shrubs, and a little imagination incorporated with what you already know about their preferred habitat.

If it were me, I would ask for advice from your local Wildlife Management officials, they can be a very useful tool.

 
I'm curious how the irrigation is coming along?
I live an hour from my property and don't want to spend my time watering trees. We planted 52 pines along the highway. I have access to surface water part way down the line of trees. I'm going with low rate drippers so everything can be small, cheap, and easy. 1 gallon per hour drippers x 52 is less than 1 gallon per hour. So I'm using 1/2" irrigaiton tubing as the main waterline, with 1/4" taps putting a dripper on each tree.

Earlier this week we got far enough along to connect a 12v diaphram pump to a generator and it had water coming out of all the drippers. Once I'm comfortable its working I'll get a 100w solar panel, battery, charge controller, and timer. Then I'll just check on it occasionally to make sure the drippers aren't plugged or chewed on.

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That looks good, I haven't received my trees yet, it has been a long winter so everything is late, irrigation will be after planting.
 
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