Big box trees

[Goldentriangle]

I have read and know most of the warnings on buying box store trees. Fortunately I live about 30 minutes from stark bros. I have a friend that manages one of the local big box stores, they still have a few dozen fruit trees from their spring sale. They all appear to be alive and well even though I'm sure the roots are balling up in the standard 3 gallon pots.
Anyways he will make me a deal on the three year old trees that will cost me next to nothing. For apples the varieties they have left are Stayman, Red Delicious, and Pink Lady. They also have Ayers, Keiffer, and Bartlett pears. I know the pears are decent deer and people varieties but is there any wildlife value for these apple varieties?
I plan on ordering multiple varieties next year from stark bros, but I may play with these since I can purchase two and three year old trees for 5 dollars or less a piece.
What are ya'lls thoughts on the varieties listed? I do have some Ayers and moonglow pears in the ground that I purchased from this place on clearance last year and with a little root pruning they are doing great.


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[Turkey Creek]

Sure there is always wildlife value in any tree you buy. Not the best wildlife selections, but you can always graft them over if they take off. I would personally stay away from the Bartlett Pear unless you happen to like fire blight, it is one of the worst fire blight magnets.

 

[j-bird]

If your willing to put the time and effort into them - I say go for it! Cheap trees that will provide some wildlife food would be great. My apples are all people varieties because, well......I'm an idiot!:D I say that simply because I hate taking care of stuff like trees - I should have planted something more "plant and walk away" but I didn't do my homework. Just keep in mind the cost to properly plant and protect those trees......that costs as much as the trees do most of the time. Even if they ripen early or whatever it give you some drop time diversity.....only down side I would see would be if you have limited space (and if so then stick with deer varieties) and or having to spray them for the various issues they may have as some are far more resistant to various issues than others. Also consider if you get them established you can always use them to graft other types to.....I need to start doing that myself.

 

[H20fwler]

I'm normally not a fan of box store trees but do really like our local TSC trees. They are big, healthy, lot's of varieties, sold in March, grow&produce great and are inexpensive. 90% of what I plant is for wildlife and I like to put out standard and semi standard size trees. I will be buying a few more of them this spring with as good as the ones I have tried in the past have done. I will still be buying trees from Cummins and Stark but have no issue whatsoever with the TSC fruit trees I've put out.


If you have the room and the time to get them out right I don't see a downside to taking a chance with them.

 

[SWIFFY]

What is a "plant and walk away deer tree"?? And where do you recommend getting them? id love to get more fruit trees for wildlife on my property.

I here a lot about what not to do, but what should a guy do? And I dont want to get into all this grafting just yet. Baby steps!!

Thanks

 

[Ben.MN/WI]

For $5/tree, you don't have a lot to lose. Just remember to cage them and put window screen around the trunks to prevent mouse damage. I've had decent luck in SE MN with cheap semi-dwarf big box store apple trees, but very little luck with them in NW WI.

 

[Ben.MN/WI]

What is a "plant and walk away deer tree"?? And where do you recommend getting them? id love to get more fruit trees for wildlife on my property.

I here a lot about what not to do, but what should a guy do? And I dont want to get into all this grafting just yet. Baby steps!!

Thanks

I've had the best luck with different varieties of crabapples - they seem to be tougher than some of the regular apple trees. Disease resistant regular apple varieties like Freedom are also good to get. I prefer getting trees on standard rootstocks from St. Lawrence Nursery in NY - they are cold weather trees that can survive in MN and WI. There are other sources for standard sized rootstock, but I've had good luck with SLN so I just stick with them.

Regardless of what type of apple you decide to go with, remember to paint the SW side of the trunk with white interior latex paint every year in late summer/early fall. That prevents SW injury, which can kill or damage even the toughest trees. I lost a number of trees before I realized that SW injury was killing them and a simple coat of paint prior to winter would prevent that.

 

[SWIFFY]

Paint the SW side of the tree??? Thats crazy... sounds like a trick you play on the new guy:)

 

[Needmorebrush82]

Paint the SW side of the tree??? Thats crazy... sounds like a trick you play on the new guy:)

Sun scald is the real deal. I have seen trees turn almost black from being cooked all summer.

 

[Ben.MN/WI]

The damage around MN and WI seems to happen primarily in winter when the sun warm the SW side of the tree, causing sap to flow and then immediately freeze when the sun goes down and the temps drop. Having white paint prevents the bark from absorbing the suns rays and heat, which prevents the sap flow and freeze cycle that cracks the bark. I painted a couple dozen apple trees last weekend in SE MN and I'll be planting some in WI in a week or so.

 

[SWIFFY]

Do you do the painting on all sizes of trees?

 

[chummer]

I buy a bunch of $5 trees every year. Mostly crab apples. If you have the space plant them, I put them around the edges for pollination and diversity. Don't be afraid to negotiate either. I have got trees as low as $3. At some point they just want the trees gone.