Apple tree planting specifics please

[TMIL]

Hey guys, please humor this total noob. I'll be planting apple trees very soon and I always do things better when I have a clear, very specific plan about the procedure. I have read a lot about apple trees on here and elsewhere, but I'd like to hear the conventional wisdom on a few things.

I have my remesh for cages and a roll of lumite, so I am good with those 2 items. I'll have them pre cut and at the planting sites before planting day. I also have some rods I'll use to anchor the cages, I plan to use some 1/4" iron rods, just one per cage. I think that will be fine as the cages are pretty heavy anyway. I will be getting my window screen material very soon.

Stakes for the trees - do you put in a 10' conduit at planting time? I have unlimited access to 4' hardwood stakes (I'm a land surveyor), would one of those work for the first year maybe?

The hole - does anyone use a post hole digger to do the hard work? Would a 12" auger be appropriate?

Amending the hole - I have pretty good soil, its a silt-loam, classified as prime farm land by the USDA. Would it be beneficial to add anything to the soil at planting time? My soil is acidic so I am contemplating adding a little lime in each hole. Good idea? How about adding manure? Should I add some of that stuff that holds water (watersorb?)?

I will say that I am more interested in doing what I can to help the trees survive and thrive rather than save a dollar or 2. But of course I don't want to do something if it is completely unnecessary.

I have already selected my site, south facing slope with full sun.

If there is anything I have missed, please tell me! Thanks fellas!!

 

[Jim Timber]

I used a compost/top soil mix with my bare roots and they did great with it.

I'd worry about too much chemistry on a young plant. I'm not certain, but I might have killed my Wolf River with too much 10-10-10 mixed in the hole with it. Lime may or may not have the same effect (I don't know), but it'd be safer to keep it out of the hole, and maybe just hold off all together unless the Ph is out of the acceptable range for your root stock.

Using an auger should be fine. I think it would've slowed me down, but then I had moist sub-soil and didn't need to work it below the transplant. If it were hard pan, an auger would've saved my bacon.

 

[Maya]

Sounds good TML, but spread the lime out now to give it time to leach in, or asap. If you just put in the hole it still takes time for it to react w/ soil. Also you would just be amending that soil at or just around the hole. Those roots will quickly grow outward and that soil is not amended. So, lime the area, not just the hole.

12" auger works great, dig down and rock it back and forth a bit to soften the sides.

 

[sandbur]

How deep does your topsoil run, maya?

 

[Lot2Learn]

re: 10' conduit, yes, if you're going to use it (it's probably not strictly required, but I think it's money well spent) then put it in at planting time. With any luck some of your trees will be reaching toward the top of that conduit in the first year.

Also, based on advice from others, I used watersorb as insurance against dry spells in the first year or two. I believe there are similar products as well, but here's where I got mine: http://www.watersorb.com. Also, a little goes a long way.

 

[CrazyEd]

Sounds like you have it all figured out. Lime in the hole is a good idea but also spread it around as Maya suggests. Go with conduit over the 4' stake.

 

[Maya]

How deep does your topsoil run, maya?

3-4' maybe.

 

[sandbur]

3-4' maybe.

Wow. On my better ground where I live it might be 18 inches to 2 feet.
Up north where I struggle with apples it is 4-6 inches.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

I'm only 4 yrs. into the apple / crab planting, but I've mixed aged compost into the topsoil for backfilling the holes and I've had 100% success with that. No fertilizer - just compost like Stu said. I had good growth from year 1 onward. Unless your soil pH is upward of 6.5, lime is a good thing around the whole area as Maya said. I add Watersorb into the backfill soil like others have said as insurance against dry spells. Especially if you can't get to the trees to water them - Watersorb. I learned a TON from guys on here that have orchards.

 

[Maya]

Wow. On my better ground where I live it might be 18 inches to 2 feet.
Up north where I struggle with apples it is 4-6 inches.

Some areas are probably less Bur. Right there where I was using the auger it's deep.