9’ tall apple stick?

[Maddog66]

Last spring I planted a 5’ tall bare root Wolf River (standard) apple tree. It was a stick with no feathering and nice roots. I was advised by the seller NOT to prune it the first year (which I now realize was a mistake).

Anyway, l planted and fenced and watered it all summer. It grew great and shot up over 3’ last summer, but still no side branches.

Now, I want my fruit bearing branches to be high anyway (deer), so last weekend I went and cut off about 2.5’ from the top at a nice bud. I also cut a little notch above 2 buds on opposite sides of the trunk at about 5’ high….based on internet reading.

Is there anything else I could do, or shouldn’t have done, in this case?

 

[Barndog56]

Notching above buds should do the trick.

 

[WTNUT]

Notching above buds should do the trick.

Agreed notching is just a cut in case maddog66 does not know


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[Prof.Kent]

The 'stick' or bare-root whip you received should have been cut back to a healthy bud to promote branching in its the first year after transplanting. Usually this is done by the nursery before shipping.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

As for notching above a bud, I've done it with good results. I read some pro instructions on how to do it, and they said to use a sharp knife blade and just press it into the bark - gently - until you just feel a "pop". Do it about 1/4" above a bud. You only want to just break through the bark and cambium - not cut deep into the wood itself. Evidently doing that signals the bud to grow a new baby branch at that location.

Prof. Kent - Did I get that right?? It's been a while since I read that instruction. Correct me as needed.

 

[Prof.Kent]

As for notching above a bud, I've done it with good results. I read some pro instructions on how to do it, and they said to use a sharp knife blade and just press it into the bark - gently - until you just feel a "pop". Do it about 1/4" above a bud. You only want to just break through the bark and cambium - not cut deep into the wood itself. Evidently doing that signals the bud to grow a new baby branch at that location.

Prof. Kent - Did I get that right?? It's been a while since I read that instruction. Correct me as needed.

Sounds about right. Haven't tried it myself yet. My trees are all well-behaved. LOL
If I remember correctly, cutting into the bark above the bud cuts off the anti-growth hormone made by the buds above to limit growth below. This is the tree's way of growing the tallest and most vertical. Without this anti-growth hormone the bud grows more vegetative growth (branches) instead of just a few leaves.

 

[Maddog66]

Thank you all very much. The tree is still dormant (z3). Do you think I should notch 1-3 more buds on that trunk? I’m shooting for about 4 bearing branches per whorl on a standard-size central leader tree - correct?

 

[Derek Reese 29]

I have a few trees like this, that came as 1 kind of "stick" about 4' long, except unlinke Maddog's trees, mine barely grew at all...(the only exception was the droptine from NWC, which grew 3-4' in height and is starting to pop out limbs now).
anything I can do to help this? (fertilize, do the bud chip thing?, etc).
Thanks!

 

[bigboreblr]

I have a few trees like this, that came as 1 kind of "stick" about 4' long, except unlinke Maddog's trees, mine barely grew at all...(the only exception was the droptine from NWC, which grew 3-4' in height and is starting to pop out limbs now).
anything I can do to help this? (fertilize, do the bud chip thing?, etc).
Thanks!

what kind of soil did you plant it in? covering the ground with mulch / fabric helps keep it moist longer. I see the differencei n the trees I do it vs not. While you do that, you could get some tree fertilizer spike or agriform tablets.

When I add supplemental water during dry spells, I put about 1/2 to 1/3 of the recommended dose of miraclegrow. Just regular vegetable stuff.

My aunt used to take a bit of fertilizer and leave it in some water to make a fertilizer solution, then add a bit to the water she used.

Any water is better than none at all, but if it can be warmed up water, all the better. Summer pond temp is ok, just that 50 deg F from the well slows them down a touch.

 

[Derek Reese 29]

what kind of soil did you plant it in? covering the ground with mulch / fabric helps keep it moist longer. I see the differencei n the trees I do it vs not. While you do that, you could get some tree fertilizer spike or agriform tablets.

When I add supplemental water during dry spells, I put about 1/2 to 1/3 of the recommended dose of miraclegrow. Just regular vegetable stuff.

My aunt used to take a bit of fertilizer and leave it in some water to make a fertilizer solution, then add a bit to the water she used.

Any water is better than none at all, but if it can be warmed up water, all the better. Summer pond temp is ok, just that 50 deg F from the well slows them down a touch.

The soil isnt the greatest (pH in the high 5s, with nominal nutrients) but I did the usual window screen around the trunk, cage around the tree on top of weed mat covered with limestone screenings...i watered the trees a few times when it got dry in the early summer, but the place they are planted is relatively wet....several other kinds of trees planted the same time in relatively the same area did alot better...the ones that did not do well were empire apple and kerr crabs.