If the downed trees are well contained inside a good fire break I am curious what the problem would be? I'd want to walk it and make sure none of the larger pieces were too close to the base of good trees but other than that the fire itself wouldn't be a concern?
Why does the tree have to be dead before burning? Do you think the heat from the fire inactivates the chemical? The chemical should be down to the roots shortly after spraying.
As for the towering fire... I recall very well some standing dead pine burning overnight on one of my burns a few...
you never got a reply. I'm about to do the same. I can't theorize why there would be any issue whatsoever as long as the trees are still fairly green. If you did H/S two years ago and had some dry standing trees you could risk some fire poles.
As for translocation of the chemical for hack and squirt... I did the Harper's cocktail (Arsenal, Garlon, water + blue dye) during a handful of days this January. I mainly targeted every sweet gum I could find and most of the elm. That made up a lot of canopy in some areas. Somewhat by...
For me the ziplock bags are not a big pain. That’s what I use. If you take good notes and write in a sharpie on the underside of the lid it’s not something you’ll have to do all that much.
As for the tubes. Yes. I kinda forgot about that. I ditched the bigger rubber tubes. They hang at too...
I’ve added roughly 300 lbs to mine. In some ground that’s not needed. In other ground it wouldn’t be enough. The absolute key (in my opinion) is to simply drill into moist (heck even wet) ground). Lot of clay in my ground. When it’s dry it’s hard. Not a big deal if you’re planting 1/2”-1”. If...
20+ acres for me this fall. Absolutely wonderful. No major complaints. A couple minor things I’d change or modify design wise but not a big deal. For the $ would not pay 2 - 2.5 x as much for a genesis or GP.
I've installed a few culverts with my mini and its the perfect tool for the job.
That being said these infrequent use crossings where the only water is during rain / storms I find that a concrete low water crossing is a much better solution. Cost is often a wash (pun intended). No worries of...
The SAYA507 is ~ $6000 so it’s really not a fair comparison to those drills that cost 2-3x more.
I feel like my “before” situation was very similar to yours 3 / 17 acres. Without the drill I was limited on what I could do. Not enough man hours to handle more than 3-5 acres without the drill...
Don't be offended by someone pointing out a legitimate trend. I'll say it again. The Tar River is literally 2x less $ than the one you are asking about so your "definitely better than the River" statement needs to factor that in. What exactly is substantially better about this drill that...