Recent content by bornagain62511

Awesome, thanks for sharing! Do you spray the clover with a light dose of gly, or no spray at all and just drill the brassica into live healthy clover? I'd like to do it without any spray so the clover and alfalfa stays living but I just wanted to make sure that's what you're doing and sitll...

thanks for all the replies, comments, and advice everyone!

Thanks I will check it out!

We take 2 crops of hay off each year. 2nd crop cutting is usually mid July. After the hay is baled, the fields are pretty bare for a week or two. The discbine cuts it really low. After raking and baling the fields are really clean with little to no thatch, so I think a no till drill would work...

Thanks for sharing! Can you please comment on the growth you've seen when drilling brassicas into living hay fields? And just to double check to make sure we are talking about the same thing, you are talking about drilling the brassica seed into living hay fields, and allowing the hay to...

I was wondering if anyone has used a no till drill to seed brassicas in a hay or clover field after the 2nd crop of hay was harvested, or the clover was mowed short in mid summer? If so how did it work? We have some alfalfa, alfalfa perennial ryegrass mix, and clover fields. We cut 2 crops of...

As I said I've t-budded probably well over 1000 apple trees over the past 20+ years using budwood from the current year's growth in August. But I think I'm going to try something I've never considered before, that is t-budding in late May or early June for persimmons (and maybe even apples)...

OK thanks again. When were you collecting your scions for t budding and what time of the year were you doing your t budding? I've done hundreds (probably well over 1000 actually) t buds for apple trees in August and usually have great success with that.

OK thanks for the info. Why did he get kicked off the site? And do you know if anyone else on here has t budded persimmons?

Jack, have you ever tried t-budding persimmon? thanks

I'm so glad I found this thread before I decided to use the RM cells. I think I will try direct seedling them in their permanent location if I can keep them from sprouting to early so I can direct seed them after the ground thaws in the spring. I have the chestnut seeds stratifying in wood...

Thanks Jack. So would it be better to do as I've done in the past? In the past I've grown thousands of apple, chestnut, and oak trees from seed germinated in the garden for 1 year, then dig up and transplant to their permanent location the 2nd year as soon as possible after the ground thaws in...

I'm glad I found this thread. I have about 180 hybrid chestnut seeds from the University of Missouri program and I was thinking about starting them in the 18 cell Rootmaker trays indoors later this winter and then transplanting them directly from the RM 18 cell trays to their permanent location...

I didn't realize you had cultipacked it before seeding. The way you did it should have been great conditions for germination. I thought you meant that you disced and then broadcast the seed without cultipacking or anything to firm the soil. Where did you get your Crimson clover seed? We get...

The photos above are from a couple years ago. NW Greening, Galarina, Enterprise, and Snowsweet apples hang late in winter and slowly drop throughout the winter. Liberty usually have some hanging in December and sometimes into January.