These trees are 7 yr old trees. They are Bud 118 and M111. There are about a dozen of them planted on the property of EverSource ( electric company). The electric company informed my buddy they will need to be removed because they are doing work there in a couple months. What are the chances of survival if he removes them with an excavator and I bring them to another property to replant? It must be done in dormant season I believe . Has anyone had any experience doing this? Any help would be great.
Transplanting Apple trees
- Thread starter BobinCt
- Start date
Native Hunter
5 year old buck +
Yes, we successfully moved several big apple trees in 2015, and most of them had been in the ground much longer than 7 years. Some were on M111 and B118, and a few were heirlooms on their own roots that had been started from root sprouts. Only one tree died, and it was damaged above ground by a rodent after being moved. We did it with a backhoe and got huge root balls. Many of those trees are loaded with apples this year. Below is a pic of one of them today (a Milam) that is covered with green apples, which are difficult to see at a distance.
I had a thread on this back then, and I was able to find the link for you shown below:
I had a thread on this back then, and I was able to find the link for you shown below:
At least I'm trying...
Some of you may recall me talking about the new road coming through and clipping the edge of my yard and taking my inlaws house. We didn't want to lose some of our best young apple trees so we made an attempt to save them. The three chestnuts being taken were just too big, so we didn't try...
habitat-talk.com
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Native Hunter
5 year old buck +
Yes, I think it would be hard to successfully move them in the summer.
If you can water them regularly the first Spring after you move them I believe that will increase your chances of success.
I failed to realize that and lost several that we moved last Fall. I think we damaged the small capillary roots digging them out with a backhoe and they just didn't have enough established root structure to survive a dry May/June.
I failed to realize that and lost several that we moved last Fall. I think we damaged the small capillary roots digging them out with a backhoe and they just didn't have enough established root structure to survive a dry May/June.
FarmerDan
5 year old buck +
I readily admit this is all book learning, what I'm about to offer. Moving big trees seemed to me a job left ignored. In a long-ago arboriculture class we were instructed in the basics. Two keys. Take as much root structure as you can...but it won't compensate for the canopy it will most likely need to support. To counter balance the lose of root, trim back the canopy - no more than a third of the total.
In an ideal world with enough lead time there would be some preliminary root pruning involved before the move. If only in your imagination draw a circle around the tree so that the circle contains the root mass you think you can move. Inside of that circle draw another circle, a concentric circle, about a foot wide, more or less. Divided the space inside the two circles into six pieces and dig out every other one maybe two feet deep - or whatever is practical. In effect you are pruning one half of the trees root system while leaving the other half as a "lifeline." This gives the tree some time to compensate for the loss of roots by growing more root fibers inside the surviving root zone.
Ideally, you'd come back later, maybe six months later, and do the same for the unpruned sections. Then you'd wait another period of time for the tree to over come the final shock.
Nothing in this world is ideal, I get it, but any thing you can do to lessen transplant shock is to your benefit.
https://extension.psu.edu/transplanting-or-moving-trees-and-shrubs-in-the-landscape
In an ideal world with enough lead time there would be some preliminary root pruning involved before the move. If only in your imagination draw a circle around the tree so that the circle contains the root mass you think you can move. Inside of that circle draw another circle, a concentric circle, about a foot wide, more or less. Divided the space inside the two circles into six pieces and dig out every other one maybe two feet deep - or whatever is practical. In effect you are pruning one half of the trees root system while leaving the other half as a "lifeline." This gives the tree some time to compensate for the loss of roots by growing more root fibers inside the surviving root zone.
Ideally, you'd come back later, maybe six months later, and do the same for the unpruned sections. Then you'd wait another period of time for the tree to over come the final shock.
Nothing in this world is ideal, I get it, but any thing you can do to lessen transplant shock is to your benefit.
https://extension.psu.edu/transplanting-or-moving-trees-and-shrubs-in-the-landscape
If they are close to the R/W I would check the easement to make sure they are in an area that they can even mess with them.I have a small tree spade that can move 2-4 inch trees and have a guy that can move big trees.Alot of time the time of year that we want to move a tree is when the tree guys are slow and you can get a good deal.I am moving a couple apple trees and a DCO.They just seem to be getting bigger and blocking my view in food plot
Well I’m digging up the trees next Sat and replanting . The electric company said by Nov 1 since they will be doing work there . My buddy owns 200 acres and the power lines run through his property. I got my buddy who has an excavator to help. I’m still not optimistic about the survival rate, but we will see.
Did you read your easement?Usually a tree has to be so close to electric before it's a problem.I have seen these R/W maintence guys try to BS their way just to make it easier on them but it violates their agreement.Also always watch the tree trimmers they hire as we have had them poison trees on the inside of R/W so they can cut the next year. that cost them.
Yes. It’s my buddy’s property and he got power lines going through it. He just lets me hunt and do whatever I want up there. I just hope I can save some of the trees, 75 per shooting for. I got 16 of them and ranging from 5-8 yr old trees. We are supposed to do it next week.
Prof.Kent
5 year old buck +
The major opinion is that "fertilizing" adds nitrogen. New transplanted trees need root growth, not leaf growth, so fertilizing the first year is usually not recommended.
A 3-20-20 fertilizer that contains 3 percent nitrogen, 20 percent phosphorus and 20 percent potassium encourages roots to grow strong and healthy.
A 3-20-20 fertilizer that contains 3 percent nitrogen, 20 percent phosphorus and 20 percent potassium encourages roots to grow strong and healthy.
bigboreblr
5 year old buck +
How often can you guys get there? Hows your ability to give them water? IF the area is sloped, maybe you can dig a channel in. Mulching helps. Any good sized bucket you can get, get. Put a few rocks in the bucket and drill a hole in it. Come by, fill up the bucket and what ever extra water you have go around the canopy. That slow feed of water lets all the get to the roots and not run off.
You may want to stake the trees too.
You may want to stake the trees too.
bigboreblr
5 year old buck +
BobinCT,
I work for a power company. I dont do line or right of way maintenance, but do computer controls / relay protection systems for them.
Find out what they are using to manage the right of way. What chemicals they use, how often they go over.
MY old boss has 110 acres in a right of way. We used to do fallow in the right of ways. Rotate strips of mowings. sometimes followed by a light discing. Spread rye in the vehicle path areas. Deer loved that spot. Red dogwood might work good for you over there.
I work for a power company. I dont do line or right of way maintenance, but do computer controls / relay protection systems for them.
Find out what they are using to manage the right of way. What chemicals they use, how often they go over.
MY old boss has 110 acres in a right of way. We used to do fallow in the right of ways. Rotate strips of mowings. sometimes followed by a light discing. Spread rye in the vehicle path areas. Deer loved that spot. Red dogwood might work good for you over there.