Tar River SAYA-507 No Till Drill
- Thread starter breddick
- Start date
There are some spring loaded pressure plates located behind the roller cage. Where l no-tilled into worked ground, very little seed was exposed so L thing it covered well. l also planted into some areas that had some vegetation. l believe the seed was deposited well. Seed should germinate in a few days so I'll know more in 10 days or so. Let me know if you have any additional questions.
Any updates, especially with pictures of how things worked out this year? Thinking about going the no till route and considering these drills. Also looking at the genesis and Great Plains. Obviously this drill is a major step down but will it do the job for the substantially lower price vs the others?
Southern Hunter
Yearling... With promise
Nice view..
Food for thought. Your curve doesn't appear to hard but turning with the implement in the ground does create excessive wear on bearings and can break a coulter or openers. I have a few places I curve a little to but try keeping it straight for the most part. Looking good.
Agree100%. That curve is honestly not as sharp as that picture makes it look and I wouldn’t go any sharper than that.
I’ve added roughly 300 lbs to mine. In some ground that’s not needed. In other ground it wouldn’t be enough. The absolute key (in my opinion) is to simply drill into moist (heck even wet) ground). Lot of clay in my ground. When it’s dry it’s hard. Not a big deal if you’re planting 1/2”-1”. If you’re trying to plant soybeans 1.5-2” deep in hard dry clay I think you might be disappointed without a lot of added weight. The Tar River has a big shelf on the front so adding weight is easy.
Nightvision
5 year old buck +
I know this is a thread about your tar river but tell us about this new kubota
Nightvision
5 year old buck +
Dang. A drill and a cab. Congrats What hp is that? I have a 46hp Kubota and it does very well for a smaller tractor
What way have you found to catch the seeds to weigh?
I’ve been using zip loc bags on a couple and it is a pain in the butt. Thinking about making a catch that stretches across all the tubes.
Also are y’all having a problem with the longer tubes stopping up a lot? If so how did you remedy it. I pull those tubes and let them hang in front of the openers. Buckwheat and oats it doesn’t make much of a differenc. Soybeans, I feel as if I am losing germination.
I’ve been using zip loc bags on a couple and it is a pain in the butt. Thinking about making a catch that stretches across all the tubes.
Also are y’all having a problem with the longer tubes stopping up a lot? If so how did you remedy it. I pull those tubes and let them hang in front of the openers. Buckwheat and oats it doesn’t make much of a differenc. Soybeans, I feel as if I am losing germination.
For me the ziplock bags are not a big pain. That’s what I use. If you take good notes and write in a sharpie on the underside of the lid it’s not something you’ll have to do all that much.
As for the tubes. Yes. I kinda forgot about that. I ditched the bigger rubber tubes. They hang at too much of an angle and the larger bends catch the seed really bad. A bunch of seed would stick along the side and when you hit a little bump... spillage.
I went to all smaller plastic tubes. For the longer reaches you do have to piggy pack a short piece of additional plastic tube (they have male / female ends). Tubes are cheap at any farm supply store.
The tube deal is one of those quality control / testing issues that really should have been caught during design. However, for the cost of this drill those are very minor gripes with easy fixes.
The other user I’ve been having is that the galvanized pipe that holds all the spring flaps will tend to twist up over time. The u bolts on each end just aren’t designed to hold the twisting force constantly applied to it. When the drill is off the ground those black flaps should point pretty much straight down. I can plant an acre of two and lift the drill and they’re pointing more horizontal than vertical. Haven’t tinkered with resolving this little issue but I can think of a few pretty easy ideas.
As for the tubes. Yes. I kinda forgot about that. I ditched the bigger rubber tubes. They hang at too much of an angle and the larger bends catch the seed really bad. A bunch of seed would stick along the side and when you hit a little bump... spillage.
I went to all smaller plastic tubes. For the longer reaches you do have to piggy pack a short piece of additional plastic tube (they have male / female ends). Tubes are cheap at any farm supply store.
The tube deal is one of those quality control / testing issues that really should have been caught during design. However, for the cost of this drill those are very minor gripes with easy fixes.
The other user I’ve been having is that the galvanized pipe that holds all the spring flaps will tend to twist up over time. The u bolts on each end just aren’t designed to hold the twisting force constantly applied to it. When the drill is off the ground those black flaps should point pretty much straight down. I can plant an acre of two and lift the drill and they’re pointing more horizontal than vertical. Haven’t tinkered with resolving this little issue but I can think of a few pretty easy ideas.
john volkman
5 year old buck +
could you snap a pic of these issues fixes when time allows, im suppose ot have mine in December so ill have some time to work on it prior to spring.
What about oats? would that work?
