Stadder?

[yoderjac]

The last elevated box blind I built worked out pretty well. I used an old ladder stand for entry. I've got no problems with that, but I am climbing pretty vertically. I wonder if I'll be able to do that as I get older. On some box blinds I have put in stairs. It makes sense on some that are closer to the ground, but is too expensive for tall ones.

So, with the new box blind I'm building, I'm using a "Stadder" for entry. It has an angle somewhere between stairs and a typical ladder. I'll climb it like a ladder. Since it is tied into the permanent stand, there is no chance of the bottom kicking out like a normal ladder so the angle can be much less steep.

Here is a pic:

The stand is still under construction. I plan to have a hand rail on the left side near the top where you transition from climbing to standing. I still need to add the door, carpet, and do some final touch up on the push-out windows.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[j-bird]

I tend to do something very similar jack. I don't like the straight up climb...at least to a shooting house. One thing I like to do however is extend the vertical pieces of the ladder up and above the platform level. This gives you something to steady yourself with as you are making the transition on to or off of the ladder.

 

[4wanderingeyes]

Also add a hand rail.
I built my own stairs. Just buy a couple 2x12's, or 2x10's depending on how high it is, and how much you weigh. Then just cut them out your self. I would recommend green treat as well, but just regular pine will last 10 years usually.

 

[SwampCat]

I tend to do something very similar jack. I don't like the straight up climb...at least to a shooting house. One thing I like to do however is extend the vertical pieces of the ladder up and above the platform level. This gives you something to steady yourself with as you are making the transition on to or off of the ladder.

yes - I run the sides of the ladder three feet higher up than the flat on my pee porch. I also like my ladder two feet wide so I can easily get through it at the top with pack and weapon.

 

[roymunson]

There's probably a snarky comment to be made about a bunch of geriatric old timers here... But i'll refrain

:D

Ours have a hatch underneath and lets us get in and out a little bit less conspicuously, but I don't think it makes much of a difference.
Set it up to be safe. The rest is details.

 

[yoderjac]

I tend to do something very similar jack. I don't like the straight up climb...at least to a shooting house. One thing I like to do however is extend the vertical pieces of the ladder up and above the platform level. This gives you something to steady yourself with as you are making the transition on to or off of the ladder.

Yes, my plan is to put a hand rail on the left side that functionally does that. I should be able to hold on to that as I transition from climbing to standing.

 

[yoderjac]

Also add a hand rail.
I built my own stairs. Just buy a couple 2x12's, or 2x10's depending on how high it is, and how much you weigh. Then just cut them out your self. I would recommend green treat as well, but just regular pine will last 10 years usually.

I did this on a couple stands. The problem is that with high stands, the cost of the long 2x12s plus all the treads drives up the cost pretty quickly compared to the Stadder approach. All the lumber I use is treated except the flooring inside. Some of my stands use OSB as flooring but I used plywood on this one.

 

[yoderjac]

There's probably a snarky comment to be made about a bunch of geriatric old timers here... But i'll refrain

:D

Ours have a hatch underneath and lets us get in and out a little bit less conspicuously, but I don't think it makes much of a difference.
Set it up to be safe. The rest is details.

I considered the trap door approach when designing stands. I concluded that the complication of trying to enter that way required me to build larger box blinds to make it practical. I've reduced the size over time. I started building them when I was spending a lot of time taking kids out. Most of my stands are 6x8 which is a comfortable size for two. I tried one stand that is 8x8 but I found it too large. I'm now focused on extending my hunting into my twilight years as far as possible. So, I'm now building some single person box blinds. This keeps the cost down. I like to use an office chair since comfort is a key for how long I can sit with my arthritis. Bottom entry requires greater floor joist separation than I use which means I need a thicker stiffer floor. With a few 2x4 scraps running cross ways between the joists, I can get away with 1/4" plywood as flooring.

Keep in mind that here in zone 7A, heat is the issue during archery season and cold is not a big problem, so these are designed for air flow. I don't use studs for walls or insulation or anything like that which also helps keep the cost down.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[roymunson]

If it works, thats what matters.

Honestly, i'm not the builder. My buddies are the wood workers. a 6 sided blind with windows is pretty sweet.
I have a couple of boys and a couple of "entry level" hunters that I want to accomodate in the woods, so this is what we go with. Works well for us.

Double paned plexiglass is the real deal too. And we're air tight, so the wind isn't as important. That's helped us a lot.

 

[yoderjac]

If it works, thats what matters.

Honestly, i'm not the builder. My buddies are the wood workers. a 6 sided blind with windows is pretty sweet.
I have a couple of boys and a couple of "entry level" hunters that I want to accomodate in the woods, so this is what we go with. Works well for us.

Double paned plexiglass is the real deal too. And we're air tight, so the wind isn't as important. That's helped us a lot.

Yes, I agree. The kinds of blinds that are ideal here would not suffice up north. Here, scent control start with the shower and clothing, the blind is just a little extra layer, not primary. Like most thing you just got to match your needs.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[Barndog56]

I've done something similar but put the rings inside like on a stronger rather than on top like yours. Gives a wider area to step on.

 

[yoderjac]

I've done something similar but put the rings inside like on a stronger rather than on top like yours. Gives a wider area to step on.

My rungs are 19" wide with a 1' spacing. Have a pic of how you did yours? How did you attach them? I just use 3 1/2 decking screws.

 

[j-bird]

There's probably a snarky comment to be made about a bunch of geriatric old timers here... But i'll refrain

:D

Ours have a hatch underneath and lets us get in and out a little bit less conspicuously, but I don't think it makes much of a difference.
Set it up to be safe. The rest is details.

I am working on trap-door type entry on my 2 new ones....to try to reduce being seen as well. I won't consider myself an old guy just yet.....but I have been hunting with my kids for the past decade or so and safety....theirs and mine...has always been a huge concern. Also my nimbleness isn't what it used to be either. I used to have some pretty challenging stands I would use....no more. It ain't worth it to me. I prefer my shooting houses or a nice safe ladder stand. I have a few hang-ons for archery season and a climber, but I use those very sparingly and I don't let the kids use them at all. Our main hunting time is late november and into december (gun season) here so dealing with wet, icy or even just the cold can be a little bit of a challenge. I don't get huge amounts of snow....snow, I can handle. Its the slick, frost covered wood, freezing rain or sleet that tends to bite you around here. This is where I hope a trap door entry will help shield the ladder/stairs as well some from the weather and make things even safer.

 

[yoderjac]

Box blind with the exterior and windows finished:

I still need to put in the carpet and window treatments, but it is essentially done.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[j-bird]

I like the addition of the hand rail....you will appreciate that when the time comes. How are your legs fastened to the concrete footers...some sort of bracket? How are you propping your windows open? Just curious..... I have went to sliding windows, but that is more to help retain heat and better seal the blind. But I have had "flap" type windows before. I used a knotted rope to open mine and allow different positions and used latches to hold closed. I never went with other "window treatments" with the flap windows.....I was able to keep the opening small and create the shading inside where it wasn't really needed as long as your blind isn't skylined. I went to "window treatments" with my sliding windows because I no longer could create those shadows.

 

[yoderjac]

The 4x4 legs are not tied to the footers. I did not get the footers centered exactly where I wanted so some are right on the edge. I normally don't do anything to tie them in. It is just the weight of the stand that makes it stable. However, since these are so close to the edge, I may add some 2x4s that tie to the leg and go along the side of the footers. We did have a pretty strong earth quake with the epicenter about 15 miles away. I've had no problems with the other box blinds but a little extra just in case would not hurt.

Down here, cold is not a big issue for me. I wear heated clothes in the winter. Heat is a problem. These windows pop out and are held in position by 2x2s with holes through them. I slide bolts through the holes and then into the 4x4 frame. Page 2 of this thread shows an earlier stand that has the same kind of windows: http://www.habitat-talk.com/index.php?threads/foodplot-stand-transfered-from-the-qdma-forum.5529/ They are tied to the stand with 3 1/2 inch hinges at the top.

Tight seal works against me here with the heat. I try to leave things open enough to create an updraft. I use the same scent control protocol that I use when hunting an open stand, so I'm not worried about scent. The biggest issue in the box blinds I've tried with flat windows is deer seeing movement inside. While deer acclimate to these they also know they are a danger source sometimes. They will stand still in the brush and watch the blind for long periods before entering the field. Light coming in the windows is a big problem. These popout windows act as shades significantly reducing the amount of light that gets in.

I would use a completely different design if I was up north and cold and wind were issues.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[yoderjac]

I like the addition of the hand rail....you will appreciate that when the time comes. How are your legs fastened to the concrete footers...some sort of bracket? How are you propping your windows open? Just curious..... I have went to sliding windows, but that is more to help retain heat and better seal the blind. But I have had "flap" type windows before. I used a knotted rope to open mine and allow different positions and used latches to hold closed. I never went with other "window treatments" with the flap windows.....I was able to keep the opening small and create the shading inside where it wasn't really needed as long as your blind isn't skylined. I went to "window treatments" with my sliding windows because I no longer could create those shadows.

I was putting some finishing touches on it today like installing the carpet and curtain rods (pvc). I took a blow up of how the windows attach for you:

The 2x2 is screwed into the hinged flap portion of the window. I drilled a hole in the end of another board. In this case I had some 1x2 oak scraps, but I've used 2x2s in other blinds. I ran a bolt through it then a washer, then through the 2x2. I used wing nuts, but any nut would do. I don't tighten them much so they swivel. I then push out the window to one or more positions where I want it open for different styles of hunting. I drill a hole at the appropriate location on the lower end of the 1x2 and into the 4x4 vertical corner. I then ran a bolt through those holes. I could use a pin of some kind but bolts are cheap. This holds the window open to that position. Finally, I pull that bolt out and close the window completely. I drill another hole through the 1x2 aligned with the hole in the 4x4. This lets me secure the windows in the closed position when the season is over.

Thanks,

Jack