Siding for box blind.

Nova

5 year old buck +
What are your thoughts on using 44" X 79" Asphalt Corrugated Roof Panel for siding on a box blind? I have used it for roofing on one and it worked great, but I am thinking of using it for siding on my next one. Here is a link to what I am talking about
https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...corrugated-roof-panel/168/p-1513841398903.htm
 
As long as you can keep water from getting behind it I can’t see why it wouldn’t work.
 
It isn't much cheaper than smartsiding panels, is there a reason you would chose that over the panel?
 
I like the idea. I'd use 1" strips of synthetic decking or some other synthetic solid material to screw threw and into the panels on the overlap and they should be good to go. Good idea.
 
I have used asphalt style siding and the problem is that if you use nails to hang it, it will leak faster than roofing as it is hanging vertically. I used Tyvek over 1/4" plywood before I put the siding on. I attached with metal pan head screws which worked better than nails. I would use metal siding over asphalt due to weight, longevity, and ability to seal corners.
 
I have not used those particular panels but I have used Ondura panels for roofing my blinds. Perhaps they panels you are referencing are designed for siding. The ones I used would not work well for siding. T-111 style panels worked best for me for siding.

Thanks,

Jack
 
I have used asphalt style siding and the problem is that if you use nails to hang it, it will leak faster than roofing as it is hanging vertically. I used Tyvek over 1/4" plywood before I put the siding on. I attached with metal pan head screws which worked better than nails. I would use metal siding over asphalt due to weight, longevity, and ability to seal corners.
The problem with metal is it is a huge PITA to cut out the windows and it is very noisy in the rain/hail/snow/acorns dropping.
 
I just build mine out of green treat, and put a metal roof on it. Lasts many years. Sure the metal roof can be noisier, but by mid November, all acorns are down already, and rain seldom happens in my area in November, and snow isnt noisy.
 
I just build mine out of green treat, and put a metal roof on it. Lasts many years. Sure the metal roof can be noisier, but by mid November, all acorns are down already, and rain seldom happens in my area in November, and snow isnt noisy.
That would be fine if I only hunted one week in November, but this is going to be used the entire bow season.
 
I do understand your concern, but deer will get use to it being there, and the noises, it is just a question of if you can. Acorns are usually done falling by mid September in the north land, and the rain noise is tolerable inside. There are options for you though.

My entire box is green treat. Then I attach the steel roof onto the green treat. You could sandwich some Reflectix between the green treat and the metal roof, that would deaden the sound. In my case I glued some poly foam board on the ceiling to help heat stay in. Mostly because I had a lot of it laying around, and wanted to put it to a good use.
 
If you are hanging this material on the frame work (think pole barn type construction) then yes....metal will "echo" more than the asphalt, but I would think that would be more of a concern with the roof vs the walls. If your putting on wood sheeting of some sort.....the metal it's not near as bad. I have not worked with the asphalt before so I am not sure how easy it is to work with. I just know that metal or even vinyl siding is common and being able to find the trim and the like needed should be easier to finish it out. If your mounting to just the wood frame the asphalt may retain any heat better vs the metal as well..... I look forward to the finished product and getting your feed back if you do go with the asphalt.
 
If you are hanging this material on the frame work (think pole barn type construction) then yes....metal will "echo" more than the asphalt, but I would think that would be more of a concern with the roof vs the walls. If your putting on wood sheeting of some sort.....the metal it's not near as bad. I have not worked with the asphalt before so I am not sure how easy it is to work with. I just know that metal or even vinyl siding is common and being able to find the trim and the like needed should be easier to finish it out. If your mounting to just the wood frame the asphalt may retain any heat better vs the metal as well..... I look forward to the finished product and getting your feed back if you do go with the asphalt.

I am mounting it right to the wood stick frame, no sheeting for a cost saving. I am leaning toward the asphalt. I have used it for the roof on another box and it has held up very well for 4 years. I also emailed the company today and asked about hanging it vertical and they gave me the install instructions for that and said will work.
 
I am mounting it right to the wood stick frame, no sheeting for a cost saving. I am leaning toward the asphalt. I have used it for the roof on another box and it has held up very well for 4 years. I also emailed the company today and asked about hanging it vertical and they gave me the install instructions for that and said will work.
I will be watching to see how it turns out. I am always interested in different ways to do things....especially with materials I have not used. The advantage I found with using wood sheeting is that it really helps keep the wall square and stiffen it up. I went with much thinner sheeting and simply painted mine with the intent to go back and put metal on it this summer for a more long term solution and to break up the costs some.
 
advantage I found with using wood sheeting is that it really helps keep the wall square and stiffen it up

good point jbird
 
I am mounting it right to the wood stick frame, no sheeting for a cost saving. I am leaning toward the asphalt. I have used it for the roof on another box and it has held up very well for 4 years. I also emailed the company today and asked about hanging it vertical and they gave me the install instructions for that and said will work.
I will be watching to see how it turns out. I am always interested in different ways to do things....especially with materials I have not used. The advantage I found with using wood sheeting is that it really helps keep the wall square and stiffen it up. I went with much thinner sheeting and simply painted mine with the intent to go back and put metal on it this summer for a more long term solution and to break up the costs some.

I have 1/2 osb on my blinds with a good heavy coat of exterior paint. Mine have been out for 5 years now and aren’t showing any signs of weathering.


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advantage I found with using wood sheeting is that it really helps keep the wall square and stiffen it up

good point jbird

If you use 1/2 inch treated plywood you don’t need many 2x2 studs for support especially if you overlap the plywood sides over the base. This makes a really stiff and sturdy blind.


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I have 1/2 osb on my blinds with a good heavy coat of exterior paint. Mine have been out for 5 years now and aren’t showing any signs of weathering.


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I have no issue with OSB as long as you paint, seal, cover it.....somehow keep the moisture off of it. I have some that was left exposed because I was cheap and in a hurry that have started to "peel" and sort of resemble a shagbark hickory tree. The wood is still fine, but I know over the long haul it will have to be addressed.....more my fault than the product and I know that.
 
If you use 1/2 inch treated plywood you don’t need many 2x2 studs for support especially if you overlap the plywood sides over the base. This makes a really stiff and sturdy blind.


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In my area for some reason 2x4's are cheap and 2x2 I can't say I have even seen before. As such I then simply use roughly 3/8" plywood. Treated plywood is pretty expensive relative to untreated....I looked into it and with my intent to cover with metal at some point the extra expense seemed like a waste.....but I may regret that decision in the long term. I figure a heavy coat of paint and a decent metal siding job and my blind will more than likely get me into the twilight years on my deer hunting days.

My local Lowes store has 2X3X8' for $1.67 and 2X4X8' for $2.66 (dollar difference).....They don't even have 2x2 as an option. I get 3/8" in 4x8 sheet for $12.63.....where the treated 1/2" 4x8 is double that at $26.57...... I think sometimes what we have reasonably available drives some of our construction method decisions as well. So like all things....there is more than one way to do it. I just like adding some sort of sheeting to help minimize the "racking" of a wall....regardless of what you use to do or or how you finish it off.
 
You pretty much just talked me out of using the corrugated siding. I forgot all about sheeting under it and the corrugated stuff won't have enough structure to stabilize the walls. Appreciate the help!!
 
I know that is why I will use the 4 x 8 smartside panels on my next one. Sheathing and siding in one, not sure if that is what the t111 panels are that yoder was talking about. My first blind I used corrugated steel, didn't realize how badly bugs would want to get in there. So in my opinion I would always try to get sheathing under anything corrugated in the future.
 
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