New Place-Fruit Tree Ideas

[Troubles Trees]

It is difficult to discern the distance you are looking to screen from that overview but it doesn't look like you need to screen a very long distance. Maybe just building up a berm with dirt 7-8 feet tall would be effective and it would be instant screening.
Just thinking out loud here.

 

[BuckSnort]

Thanks for the PM--i am looking into spruce but also found austree hybrid willows? Don't know if anyone can speak to their use--but they said they grow very fast and as I will have clover in this field this year I may need something quicker with maybe the spruce planted in front towards the road? I am open to any and all suggestions but dont want the screen to get too tall as to shade out the field...is there a 10-15 ft tall dwarf spruce? i guess 20 ft would be ok too-I also have some Chickasaw plums on order but I dont know how fast they will make a screen?-thanks again

My brother & uncle split an order of these willows, both planted for a visual screen this past spring. Almost all survived but the deer, which are way too plentiful in the area, browsed them badly. The hope is that the roots systems are well established and they really take off next spring.

 

[Derek Reese 29]

It is difficult to discern the distance you are looking to screen from that overview but it doesn't look like you need to screen a very long distance. Maybe just building up a berm with dirt 7-8 feet tall would be effective and it would be instant screening.
Just thinking out loud here.

the distance from the end of the tree along the road to the driveway is about 35 feet...i was figuring the chickassaw plums spaced at 5 feet would cover 20' (5 feet from pine tree on the left then 5 foot spacing between them) but then need some more screen for where the driveway comes up and for maybe 10-15 yards up from the bottom as well..

 

[Derek Reese 29]

My brother & uncle split an order of these willows, both planted for a visual screen this past spring. Almost all survived but the deer, which are way too plentiful in the area, browsed them badly. The hope is that the roots systems are well established and they really take off next spring.

hmmm that is a consideration, as this fall there were ~40 deer in the ag field on the other side of the fencerow by the driveway

 

[j-bird]

Fruit trees are certainly a $25 tree and a $20 hole sort of deal. Weed barrier, trunk protection and a wire cage with support is all needed to ensure the deer don't prune your tree for you. You also need to ensure they will get plenty of light, and stay away from low lying areas. Low areas tend to collect cool air and can kill the flowers in the spring resulting in no fruit. As for the trees themselves...make sure you select a rootstock that is good for your are and will grow the size of tree you want. Smaller (dwarf) trees will tend to fruit sooner but tend to leave a lot in reach of the deer. Standard trees will grow much larger but tend to take a little longer to fruit. I plant semi-dwarf root stock, and when the trees are older I can trim with a pole saw while standing on the ground. I also then train my trees so the lowest branches are 5 feet or so off the ground if I can. Other than that...pears and crab apples seem the be the easiest to grow from a disease and pest perspective. You will also want to find out what ripens and falls in your area that works for your needs. I avoid "summer" apples because I don't hunt in the summer. As for typical apples there are a bunch of different varieties out there and it all depends on what you want. There are some real good resources here to help guide you.

Do NOT buy fruit trees from a big box store....many times you have no idea what root stock these trees have and in most cases the varieties they carry are "people" apples....which is fine if that is what you want. Most of us want apples for the deer and thus we want them to drop during our hunting seasons. Find a reliable source for your trees that is near your area and they can walk you thru what should work well for you also. Lots of folks here have used many of the bigger on-line nursery places so they can help you with who is good and the like as well. I personally use Turkey Creek Nursery (TC is a member here and will walk you thru the selection process if you so desire).

 

[Derek Reese 29]

Fruit trees are certainly a $25 tree and a $20 hole sort of deal. Weed barrier, trunk protection and a wire cage with support is all needed to ensure the deer don't prune your tree for you. You also need to ensure they will get plenty of light, and stay away from low lying areas. Low areas tend to collect cool air and can kill the flowers in the spring resulting in no fruit. As for the trees themselves...make sure you select a rootstock that is good for your are and will grow the size of tree you want. Smaller (dwarf) trees will tend to fruit sooner but tend to leave a lot in reach of the deer. Standard trees will grow much larger but tend to take a little longer to fruit. I plant semi-dwarf root stock, and when the trees are older I can trim with a pole saw while standing on the ground. I also then train my trees so the lowest branches are 5 feet or so off the ground if I can. Other than that...pears and crab apples seem the be the easiest to grow from a disease and pest perspective. You will also want to find out what ripens and falls in your area that works for your needs. I avoid "summer" apples because I don't hunt in the summer. As for typical apples there are a bunch of different varieties out there and it all depends on what you want. There are some real good resources here to help guide you.

Do NOT buy fruit trees from a big box store....many times you have no idea what root stock these trees have and in most cases the varieties they carry are "people" apples....which is fine if that is what you want. Most of us want apples for the deer and thus we want them to drop during our hunting seasons. Find a reliable source for your trees that is near your area and they can walk you thru what should work well for you also. Lots of folks here have used many of the bigger on-line nursery places so they can help you with who is good and the like as well. I personally use Turkey Creek Nursery (TC is a member here and will walk you thru the selection process if you so desire).

thanks for the info! i relied on a few suggestions from this forum (Blue Hill, Northern Whitetail crabs) and then ordered a few from random well-reviewed nurseries (they noted their rootstocks and had knowledgeable staff who answered my questions) to do a side by side comparison..it might take a few years but I intend to track them using notes and tags

 

[Derek Reese 29]

It is difficult to discern the distance you are looking to screen from that overview but it doesn't look like you need to screen a very long distance. Maybe just building up a berm with dirt 7-8 feet tall would be effective and it would be instant screening.
Just thinking out loud here.

i like the berm idea..but I think it might block some sunlight to the field behind and I would have to do it by hand...7-8 feet is pretty high for that kinda endeavor...

 

[Derek Reese 29]

first step completed...planted 10 willows along the driveway, 3 chickasaw plums along the road, 2 keiffer pears and a dolgo crabapple up towards the top of the field this weekend...thanks to everyone for the advice and especially bowsnbucks for his additional guidance! Pictured is the dolgo crab with the prescribed 6x6 remesh, window screen trunk cover and limestone screening vole prevention.

 

[buckdeer1]

The chickisaw plums will spread pretty fast once they get started

 

[Derek Reese 29]

The chickisaw plums will spread pretty fast once they get started

That's what I'm hoping for...apparently the road 5 yards from those trees is known for lots of spotlighting (legal in PA) and poaching (definitely not legal, but often done in PA)

 

[Bowsnbucks]

Looks good Derek! Your pic looks like the planting method we use at camp - and we haven't had a problem with mice or voles. The deer will nip twigs that grow out from the remesh, but it never slowed down our trees' growth at all. I think you'll see good things there!

 

[Derek Reese 29]

Looks good Derek! Your pic looks like the planting method we use at camp - and we haven't had a problem with mice or voles. The deer will nip twigs that grow out from the remesh, but it never slowed down our trees' growth at all. I think you'll see good things there!

I did order the 5-6 foot branched Dolgo and the keiffers were 7-8 feet tall from Willis Orchards so I can't wait to see what the fall brings. I admit it's kind of cheating buying bigger trees but I had the budget and wanted to see what they would do. Most of the other trees on order are of the smaller variety, so I will have to be more patient with them. Thanks again!

 

[AtomApple]

Did you consider pollination? According to the new Cummins site, the Liberty is a triploid, which means it needs two other apples to pollinate it AND it is sterile so it won’t pollinate other apples.
enterprise is a good diploid for you.
you could also graft a crab branch or two onto you Liberty.

 

[Derek Reese 29]

Did you consider pollination? According to the new Cummins site, the Liberty is a triploid, which means it needs two other apples to pollinate it AND it is sterile so it won’t pollinate other apples.
enterprise is a good diploid for you.
you could also graft a crab branch or two onto you Liberty.

I did notice that triploid notation...there are 3 apples of indeterminate variety planted nearby, along with all of the crabs/other apples I will be adding. (the chestnut and dolgo crabs appear to be pollinators, along with the unknown tree possibly)..i liked the later drop of the liberty and its disease resistance...also would grafting the crab branch onto the liberty help to pollinate it? Like if I grafted a dolgo or chesnut crab branch would those branches help pollinate the liberty?...thanks!

 

[Derek Reese 29]

Update: the dolgo is flowering already! I am a bit worried about the abnormally cold teps (low 20s) that are coming later this week (Thursday/Friday)...any ideas on how to protect those buds? (Can I put a tarp around the tree, spray it with water the night before so the water freezes first, etc?) Thanks !

 

[sandbur]

Update: the dolgo is flowering already! I am a bit worried about the abnormally cold teps (low 20s) that are coming later this week (Thursday/Friday)...any ideas on how to protect those buds? (Can I put a tarp around the tree, spray it with water the night before so the water freezes first, etc?) Thanks !
View attachment 34053

I didn’t review the whole thread, but if that tree was recently planted, I would remove the blossoms. It would be better for the long term health of the tree.


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[Derek Reese 29]

I didn’t review the whole thread, but if that tree was recently planted, I would remove the blossoms. It would be better for the long term health of the tree.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok I can do that...I just planted it ~10 days ago.

 

[Telemark]

I agree on removing blossoms from newly planted trees. You don't want your trees using energy on fruit yet.

 

[AtomApple]

I did notice that triploid notation...there are 3 apples of indeterminate variety planted nearby, along with all of the crabs/other apples I will be adding. (the chestnut and dolgo crabs appear to be pollinators, along with the unknown tree possibly)..i liked the later drop of the liberty and its disease resistance...also would grafting the crab branch onto the liberty help to pollinate it? Like if I grafted a dolgo or chesnut crab branch would those branches help pollinate the liberty?...thanks!

yes, grafting a branch of each to a liberty should ensure good pollination.

 

[Derek Reese 29]

I agree on removing blossoms from newly planted trees. You don't want your trees using energy on fruit yet.

Got the dozen or so blossoms off last night...I will continue to monitor the tree to make sure I get any more that pop out...with the weather we have coming in later this week (low 20s and snow) I may get a little help there...thanks!