New 6ft landpride drill 3P606NT

WKyGasDoc

5 year old buck +
Any advice on my first attempt at using my drill this fall, following several plots that had radishes/PTT /clover/wheat mix. I am thinking of a simple red/ladino clover and either wheat or rye. maybe toss in some peas.... In West Ky
 
Last fall I used my Great Plains for turnips and clover. I don’t have the numbers with me but it wasn’t hard to calibrate. I shot for about 10 lbs total of PTT, DER, GHR, white and red clover. Don’t have to worry about clover competition as it won’t do much until spring.

I never added grains to brassicas until last year. Always figure the grain would add competition. But last year I did go back in early sept and broadcast rye into them. Worked pretty good.
 
Oh don’t plant deep. Just scratch the surface with the openers and let the press wheels push it down.
 
Do yourself a favor and get a journal and put it in the box with the seed rate book. Keep specific notes of the acre meter when you start/finish, the drill settings and how much seed you used. When you hit a home run you'll be able to get back there again.
 
Depending on how big your tractor is, make sure you realize your drill is 6' and your tractor is probably 8 or 9. overlap wheels accordingly.

Takes some getting used to, but we did buckwheat this spring and i planted a pond bank with our about a month ago. it is beautiful .
 
What do you want to know? I have planted close to 100 acres with a 706, including a bunch two days ago.
 
Last fall I used my Great Plains for turnips and clover. I don’t have the numbers with me but it wasn’t hard to calibrate. I shot for about 10 lbs total of PTT, DER, GHR, white and red clover. Don’t have to worry about clover competition as it won’t do much until spring.

I never added grains to brassicas until last year. Always figure the grain would add competition. But last year I did go back in early sept and broadcast rye into them. Worked pretty good.

WR is always a good fall overseeding complementary grain.
 
Do yourself a favor and get a journal and put it in the box with the seed rate book. Keep specific notes of the acre meter when you start/finish, the drill settings and how much seed you used. When you hit a home run you'll be able to get back there again.
Very much agree. I calibrate my drill for every seed or seed mix that goes through it....and I keep detailed notes on everything.
 
Sounds like the journal is a good idea. I did it with sunflower, I am used to broadcasting based on what I want on a #/ac basis using published numbers. I just add all my seeds to creat a blend and spread it all . Now I can drill more precise but each seed needs to be calibrated. I have a small seed box and regulars seed b ox. Any refs on how to start
 
It may seem trivial WKyGasDoc....and I know most of us only read instructions as a last resort....but it really helped me to READ THE OWNERS MANUAL when I bought my drill 6 years ago. :emoji_relaxed:

As I mentioned earlier, I like to keep good notes so I don't have to reinvent the wheel every time I do something. Here are some notes I took while reading the owners manual that seem to be most helpful from time to time. Actually, I don't think I have had to even look at them for a few years but they are there if I need a refresher....or to help others out from time to time.

Land Pride 606NT No-Till Grain Drill

To Transport:

Move draw bar on tractor all the way out
Inflate tires to 60 PSI
Check Hydraulic Fluid in tractor
Remove Jack Stand
Hub Lock Out in transport position
If seed is in boxes - set Seed Cup Doors to #1
set Seed Rate Handle to 0

To Plant:
Zero Acre Meter (Press & Hold both up and down arrows for 2 seconds)
Engage Lock Out Hub to plant position
Set Hydraulic Stop for desired planting depth (need two 1/2” wrenches)
Set Seed Drive Gear
Set Seed Rate Handle (3/4” socket or wrench)
Set Seed Cup Doors
Set Press Wheels (more down presssure) - Forward - (Less down pressure) - Rearward)
Adjust Press Wheel Springs for more pressure

Settings:

(Closest to 50 on Rate Handle)


Rye: (7.5” Rows)
142#/Acre -
Drive Rate Gear 3, Seed Rate Handle 55, Seed Cup Doors 2.

Clovers (Small Box)
8-10#/Acre:
Seed Rate Lever - 45-50 (Higher with coated seed)

This should be a good starter. Up next....Calibration.
 
It may seem complicated at first but once you've done it 2-3 times it is really easy. Just get into the habit of doing it when you are planting a new seed and you won't even have to think about it.

Also...it took me a few years to learn this but I always had a tough time getting the hoses hooked up and clamped again after removing them for calibration. I finally stopped disconnecting them and now just raise the drill up enough so that I can catch the seed in small pails. This has made life so much easier when calibrating.

Calibrating 606 NT Drill

Set Up

  1. Move draw bar on tractor all the way out
  2. Inflate tires to 60 PSI
3. Check Hydraulic Fluid in tractor

4. Lift drill all the way up and hold up for 30 seconds to “Re-Phase” the cylinders.

5. Set coulters in ground and adjust frame height 24 3/4” to bottom of frame from ground and then set cylinder stop there.

6. Level seed box with drill in ground - level on top of main box. 1 7/8” wrench.

Calibrating (I do this in the barn - not in the field)

Ensure that lockout hub is disengaged.

Adjust clutch to engage fully (clutch tab lever all the way up - use 9/16” socket) when cranking jackshaft manually for calibration.

Crank jackshaft counter-clockwise - 102 cranks per 0.1 acre

Raise drill and place pails or pans below tubes to catch seed from 3 tubes and combine them to weigh. Do not remove seed hoses.

Divide total weight by 3 to get the average weight of seed.

Multiply by number of tubes to be used (from 3 to all 9).

Multiply by 10 to get total pounds per acre.

If weight comes out in ounces - divide by 16 to get pounds per acre. Green pail (2 gallon) weighs 1.0 pound.

A few pics to help explain some of this because sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words.

To calibrate with the hand crank, first mark a line with a Sharpie where your clutch is currently set (note my mark in the photo below). Then loosen these two 9/16" nuts and move the clutch lever all the way up and tighten them there.

IMG_5261.jpg

Get your pails in place to catch the seed and turn the crank handle 102 turns counter clockwise - this equals 1/10th of an acre.

IMG_5266.jpg

These 2 gallon pails easily fit under the drill to catch seed.

IMG_5267.jpg

Plastic covers to block seed tubes and a little card I cut out to block small seed from going any further than the 3rd tube for calibrating.

IMG_3738.jpg

Works well. I just catch seed from the first 3 tubes when calibrating for the small box.

IMG_3739.jpg

Weigh the seed you catch and average out per the number of tubes and then do the math to calibrate pounds per acre. Adjust drill settings and do it again. Rinse and repeat until you get the rate you are looking for....THEN MAKE NOTES OF THOSE SETTINGS.

When you have it calibrated where you want it, don't forget to remove and secure the crank handle and reposition your clutch and tighten it up.

You probably already know this but it helps me to put a zip tie on the top hydraulic hose so I get hooked up right the first time.

IMG_3744.jpg
 
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Here are the notes from my fall cover crop last year.

Land Pride 606NT No-Till Drill

Fall Cover Crop 2020

Large Box:


Rye 50#/acre
Soybeans 10#/acre
Hairy Vetch 3#/acre
Buckwheat 2#/acre
Radish 2#/acre
Japanese Millet 1.5#/acre

Total - Large Box 68.5#/acre

Small Box:


Purple Top Turnips 1#/acre
Barkant Forage Turnips 1#/acre
Appin Forage Turnips 1#/acre
Kestrel Kale 2#/acre
Crimson Clover 2#/acre
Medium Red Clover 2#/acre
Total - Small Box 9#/acre

Total 77.5#/acre


Drive 2
Seed Cup 2
Seed Rate 41 (Large Box) = 68#/acre

Small Box Setting - 43 = 9#/acre

Notes:

May broadcast more rye 2 weeks after initial seeding
 
Notes from last year's brassica planting:

Land Pride 606NT No-Till Drill

Brassicas 2020 - Drilled July 9th

Large Box:


GH Forage Radish 6#/acre

Small Box:

Purple Top Turnips 1#/acre
Barkant Turnips 1#acre
Appin Forage Turnips 1#/acre
Kestrel Kale 2#/acre
Crimson Clover 2#/acre
Medium Red Clover 2#/acre

Total 9#/acre + Radish = 15#/acre


Hydraulic Stop up 4” from bottom for shallow seed depth

Large Box Settings for GH Radish:
Drive 2 (Calibrate using Drive 1 next time)
Seed Cup 1 (closed)
Seed Rate - 1 = 6#/acre

Small Box Setting - 43 = 9#/acre

Press Wheels (Shallow - Forward & Deep - Rearward)

Adjust Press Wheel Springs for more pressure

Notes:
May broadcast rye 3-4 weeks after initial seeding …

Calibration:

Small Box Settings - 40 = 8.25#/ac … 45 = 9.56#/ac - Used 43

Large Box Settings - Seed Cup 2 was way too heavy. Used Cup 1 (closed).

Lever setting 4 = 11.8#/ac - 2 = 7.3#/ac - 1 = 6.2#/acre

Fertilizer:

Soil tests called for an average of 52#/acre P and 55#/acre K. Had Ray’s mix up 5 acres coverage with addition of Sulfur and Boron:

18-46-0 - 600#
0-0-60 - 450#
Sulfur - 100#
Boron - 50#

Will add 100#/acre Urea with next rain and another 100#/acre Urea in 3-4 weeks



In addition to these I have similar notes for:

Alfalfa
Buckwheat
Cereal Grains
Corn
Cover Crops
Buffalo Blend
Sorghum/Milo Screen
Soybeans
Sugar Beets
Switchgrass

I have calibrated my drill to plant all of these - some I have calibrated more than once due to variations in the size of the seeds. Like I mentioned earlier, once you have done it a few times it becomes second nature and not nearly as intimidating as the very first time.

Best of luck with your new drill.
 
WOW, can't thank you enough Wildthing!! Those notes are great starting points for me and the pics are perfect ! I really appreciate the time you put in your response. I never expected (but thankful) for such a good tutorial. I will use your data to start this summer. My drill is a 3pt hitch some some differences but the calibration the same.. I also just noticed that I mis-spelled by title, oops. Thank you again, maybe the moderators can pin this thread
 
WOW, can't thank you enough Wildthing!! Those notes are great starting points for me and the pics are perfect ! I really appreciate the time you put in your response. I never expected (but thankful) for such a good tutorial. I will use your data to start this summer. My drill is a 3pt hitch some some differences but the calibration the same.. I also just noticed that I mis-spelled by title, oops. Thank you again, maybe the moderators can pin this thread

Happy to be able to help you out some WKyGasDoc. If you have any questions or have a specific crop in mind just give me a shout and maybe we can shorten the learning curve for you.

You will really like that drill. I was able to drill some pretty small sugar beet seeds this year at a rate of only 2.0#/acre. That is really good for a drill. Not so much for a precision planter but I think it is darned good for a drill which basically does a somewhat controlled "spill" :emoji_relaxed: .

RR sugar beet seed on the left has 25,000 seeds/#. The RR sugar beet seed on the right only around 10,800 seeds/# as I recall. 2.0# of the smaller seed gets me 50K seeds/acre which is my goal while the larger seed I need 4.6#/acre to get 50K seeds in the ground.

IMG_5310.jpg

The drought conditions this year kicked my butt but a little rain in the last week or so has my sugar beets coming around some. These were drilled at only 2#/acre. I plan to broadcast a little brassica seed in there soon to fill in the thin spots but if we continue to get a little timely rain I think I will be OK.

IMG_5959.jpg
 
IMPRESSIVE, I have never done SB yet. I would like to try that. I wonder if our Hot West Ky (Murray) summer would be tough on them.
 
Don't know about KY but sugar beets are a great winter forage for our deer here in Upper Michigan. They can provide tons of forage which the deer can still dig through the snow to get at. Also...a great place to find shed antlers in the spring.

MFDC5094.jpg

Even into late February.

IMG_0154.jpg
 
Bumping this up ......

how is the learning curve,GasDoc?

Care to share a few "lessons learned?"

bill
 
lots of good planting rates on here.
Wish there was something that'd tell a deer farmer, who plants weird species of food, what and how thick to plant. Things like rutabaga, PTT, driller radishes, etc...
 
Bumping this up ......

how is the learning curve,GasDoc?

Care to share a few "lessons learned?"

bill
Well My food plotting this year had some set back. I had to have some lung surgery during prime planting time, so I am in the recovery phase now. Hope to be strong enough to calibrate my drill for WW, AWP, and clover maybe this Monday. My sunflower plot did terrible. The ground was still wet in areas from our damp spring, I planted too deep in some because of this and no germination. The deer predation on the young shoots was intense . So my lessons with the drill learned are:

1. Best to plant field when dry,
2. Depth calibration of planter critical and tough to adjust on the fly.........Soooo I bought a hydraulic top link to try , no more squeezing between tractor and planter
3. Deer really like sunflowers in WKy
4. Anesthesia is really awesome, Surgery sucks
5. Good to have strong friends to help with stuff as you get older
6. Forums like this are excellent at obtaining info and learning from others.
 
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