LP3P606NT drill

Any tips on calibration?
Links? resources? etc

bill

The seed rate chart has always been "close enough" for me. I plant a lot of mixes, I base the rate off the bulkiest seed in the mix, using past years notes and experience. It's hard to go wrong, some plots are just better than others. If you have a really small seed in the batch (or a couple) I tend to throw them in the small seed box, so they don't separate out with all off the vibration.
 
The shop vac is a great tool for cleaning out the hopper!!! Second that

Digital scales like for a kitchen off amazon are excellent to weigh seed
 
The shop vac is a great tool for cleaning out the hopper!!! Second that

Digital scales like for a kitchen off amazon are excellent to weigh seed

digital scale is a must for small seed. Forgot that one.
 
Ok
Got her hooked up
Still on factory settings

drive wheel not touching the ground

how do I lower the height?
 
Ok
Got her hooked up
Still on factory settings

drive wheel not touching the ground

how do I lower the height?

Drop the drill in the field, yard, etc. and pull it a short distance so the coulters and openers cut in. Take a level, and make sure the drill is level, you can check it on the box lid. If it's level and still not getting good consistent contact, so the chain is always moving, you need to lower the drive tire/wheel. If you look, there are a bunch of holes where you can bolt the axle of the drive wheel. Just lower it, until it makes contact and doesn't skip. You may get close to the correct spot and it moves 50% of the time, but also skips, just keep lowering...
 
Drop the drill in the field, yard, etc. and pull it a short distance so the coulters and openers cut in. Take a level, and make sure the drill is level, you can check it on the box lid. If it's level and still not getting good consistent contact, so the chain is always moving, you need to lower the drive tire/wheel. If you look, there are a bunch of holes where you can bolt the axle of the drive wheel. Just lower it, until it makes contact and doesn't skip. You may get close to the correct spot and it moves 50% of the time, but also skips, just keep lowering...

Many thanks,

will make adjustments this weekend

bill
 
Those are all great points

Anyone else have any practical advice or "lessons learned" they are willing to share/

bill

We had a lot of trouble with the small seed tubes clogging up from spider webs. Instead of cleaning out the tubes every year we now plug the top and bottom. Plugs from Amazon.

0f289fcab636e88ef22be2aa19b3af5e.jpg

89403594bc92055aba63ee9383e3b01e.jpg

ea013a76162de9bcf93afee1ebdffe9a.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That’s a good idea!!
 
Drop the drill in the field, yard, etc. and pull it a short distance so the coulters and openers cut in. Take a level, and make sure the drill is level, you can check it on the box lid. If it's level and still not getting good consistent contact, so the chain is always moving, you need to lower the drive tire/wheel. If you look, there are a bunch of holes where you can bolt the axle of the drive wheel. Just lower it, until it makes contact and doesn't skip. You may get close to the correct spot and it moves 50% of the time, but also skips, just keep lowering...
Just curious after fighting some hard ground last week, I had same problem. Had to tilt drill up a tad so more pressure on colters , and drop packing wheels. Not exactly level but seem to worked. My ground driven wheel is at factory setting. It would have been a pain to change on the fly. Have any of you guys adjusted the ground driving wheel much? And if so is it difficult? I take the level reading off the horizontal
 

Attachments

  • 1E6FA882-3CFE-4C4F-BEDB-20B8A364ACB5.jpeg
    1E6FA882-3CFE-4C4F-BEDB-20B8A364ACB5.jpeg
    366.5 KB · Views: 9
Just curious after fighting some hard ground last week, I had same problem. Had to tilt drill up a tad so more pressure on colters , and drop packing wheels. Not exactly level but seem to worked. My ground driven wheel is at factory setting. It would have been a pain to change on the fly. Have any of you guys adjusted the ground driving wheel much? And if so is it difficult? I take the level reading off the horizontal

havent had a chance to try Swat's tips

Manual says to loosen the chain idlers which allows you to adjust drive wheel setting

bill
 
havent had a chance to try Swat's tips

Manual says to loosen the chain idlers which allows you to adjust drive wheel setting

bill
I was told by Land Pride rep to adjust the drivewheel only as last resort since the factory setting is good for most all ground types. He also said it's a major pain to adjust it for changing ground types...meaning you might only have drought conditions once every 2-3 years.
The best advice he gave me was to get a hydraulic top link! I can now easily adjust tilt to get the drivewheel perfect. Im never far from level at all. Tweaking the packing wheels like gasdoc says is key.
 
I screwed around with tilting the drill via the top link for a couple years. I couldn't get the drive wheel to stop skipping until I adjusted it down. I did it one time, can't remember if I went one hole or 2, but the drill now runs level, as it should, and never skips. It was a simple operation to change, Tree Daddy explained. You want the drill level in a perfect world, if the drive wheel skips when it is, fix the drive wheel and be done with it. I lowered mine 6-8 years ago and have never touched it again, and never had another problem.
 
Has anyone found a Quick Hitch that would work on the 3p6060NT? (Other than Pat's QH)
 
Wlmuzz, heard same thing from rep. I have a hydraulic top link now which helps, but seems like a lot of trial and error to get it right. Have not adjusted wheel yet.....buttttt
 
Top