Honey Crisp on standard roots?

[Jordan Selsor]

Anyone try HC on standard roots with any better success than dwarving rootstock? I have the tree on m7, mm111 an b118. Tree is a slow growing here in Mo for sure. I know Native mentions that some trees do much better on standard roots for example wolf river. Just curious what everyone’s experience is. I know Mo is not ideal zone for HC but hoped to provide my wife with her favorite home grown apple some day!

 

[chickenlittle]

I have one on P18 which is a standard, full size stock. Planted in 2015 from Cummins. It's one of the smaller trees on P18 that I planted that spring. It had a limb breakoff in a storm but it recovered fine from that. I think it had a few apples on last year. It's my only honeycrisp so I can't compare the P18 to other rootstocks.

 

[PoorSand]

I planted five Honeycrisp on Antonovka in full sun on gravelly sandy loam in 2008 along with five each of Braeburn, Red Delicious, Haralred, and Honeygold, all on Antonovka as well. The Honeygold are doing the best. The Honeycrisp are a close second.

 

[swat1018]

I planted 4 on B118 last year. They didn't seem to do much yet, but looking forward to what they do this year. 2 are in Indiana, 2 are in MO.

 

[chummer]

I have one on P.18. It is my slowest growing tree. Only 5’ after three years.

 

[Freeborn]

I have 2 on B118 planted in 2013 with several other varieties. They are in the middle of the group on growth but healthy. These are being grown on sandy loam soils.

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[H20fwler]

I've got it on M111 planted in loamy clay five years full sun, last year was first for apples.

 

[Prof.Kent]

By the size of the mature trees, I'd say the Honeycrisps I have on on M7s are not vigorous growers and the iron chlorosis (physiological condition of the yellowing of the leaves) is more pronounced. The Honeycrisps on M106 & M111 rootstocks are healthier, & more vigorous growers. All my trees are in sandy soils. For me, I would not get a Honeycrisp on a dwarfing rootstock.
Zone 5, Mid-Michigan.

 

[Apple Junkie]

I purchased two Honeycrisp on an un-defined “standard” rootstock in 2017 from a nursery I had never tried before. One was planted at home on sandy soil, the other at the camp on a loam soil. Both are alive, but doing poorly in my opinion. The one at the camp is lagging so far behind others planted the same year, I am tempted to cut my loses and replace it with a more vigorous variety from a more trusted nursery. Other varieties planted the same year are doing much better – including a Franklin, which seems to be everything it was touted to be so far.

 

[Prof.Kent]

I purchased two Honeycrisp on an un-defined “standard” rootstock in 2017 from a nursery I had never tried before. One was planted at home on sandy soil, the other at the camp on a loam soil. Both are alive, but doing poorly in my opinion. The one at the camp is lagging so far behind others planted the same year, I am tempted to cut my loses and replace it with a more vigorous variety from a more trusted nursery. Other varieties planted the same year are doing much better – including a Franklin, which seems to be everything it was touted to be so far.

For all the good qualities of Honeycrisp it is only a moderately vigorous grower. Make sure you fertilize it and mulch it if you can. Other than that you can always bury the graft joint and let it put down its own roots. It should then grow larger.

 

[Ben.MN/WI]

I planted five Honeycrisp on Antonovka in full sun on gravelly sandy loam in 2008 along with five each of Braeburn, Red Delicious, Haralred, and Honeygold, all on Antonovka as well. The Honeygold are doing the best. The Honeycrisp are a close second.

My honeygold on Antonovka rootstock is also my best grower. My tree is 6 years old and at this rate I'll be able to hang a tree stand from the tree 6 years from now! My honeycrisp on Antonovka rootstock is growing slower, but still doing all right.

 

[PoorSand]

A coyote dug a hole in amongst the Honeycrisp and other trees on Antonovka I referred to in my post on the 14th. I've attached a photo to give you an idea of the soil that rootstock tolerates for me. I have some trees on regular seedling rootstock there too, and they a lagging far behind those on Antonovka.

 

[KickapooKid#1]

My Honeycrisp on standard roots planted in 2010 has yet to produce a blossom. 3 other trees 2 Cortland and a Wolfriver started fruiting a few years ago and are about 3 times the size.

 

[Jordan Selsor]

My Honeycrisp on standard roots planted in 2010 has yet to produce a blossom. 3 other trees 2 Cortland and a Wolfriver started fruiting a few years ago and are about 3 times the size.

That seems to be the general consensus! I believe I will whack 2 of my 3 honey crisp next spring and graft another variety to the rootstock. I will leave the one on b118 just for observation purposes I guess

 

[KickapooKid#1]

Honeycrisp is at the top of my list for suspect trees in my orchard. My tree on Ant Roots planted in 2010 and has yet to produce a blossom. Very small tree compared to my 2 cortlands and wolfriver. Thinking about top working it over to chestnut crab over the next few years with the huge scion my chestnut is producing. Also thinking about top working a pristine tree on b.118 to snowsweet and sweet 16.

 

[Prof.Kent]

I have grown Honeycissp on Ant., B118, Bud9, M7, M111, G31, and M106... basically whatever was offered. I do not like it on dwarf (M7 and smaller) rootstocks and prefer it on B118. HC is not a vigorous grower for me. My soil is sandy. If you can afford to wait it seems to be healthier on larger rootstocks. Its problem with iron chlorosis seems to make it struggle on smaller rootstocks and struggling makes it a BIG target for Japanese beetles. (Insects tend to attack weak plants first--that is just Nature's way, I guess-- either that or they just like HC like the rest of us do!) My brother next door couldn't get a HC to set or product a crop for years on M7s. Bugs just destroyed them every year.

 

[Tree Spud]

Honeycrisp is at the top of my list for suspect trees in my orchard. My tree on Ant Roots planted in 2010 and has yet to produce a blossom. Very small tree compared to my 2 cortlands and wolfriver. Thinking about top working it over to chestnut crab over the next few years with the huge scion my chestnut is producing. Also thinking about top working a pristine tree on b.118 to snowsweet and sweet 16.

Are you in Wisconsin? I am considering Honeycrisp, would like to hear local obsrvations.

 

[Prof.Kent]

Are you in Wisconsin? I am considering Honeycrisp, would like to hear local obsrvations.

No, I'm in Mid-Michigan, Zone 5A. What purpose is your HC for? Wildlife? Home garden?

 

[Tree Spud]

No, I'm in Mid-Michigan, Zone 5A. What purpose is your HC for? Wildlife? Home garden?

Wildlife, eating, disease/scab resistance of 4a environment. Have 60 trees in our orchard, adding another 80 this spring.

Have sandy loam soils ... looking for balance to wildlife crabs, cider trees, to fill our orchard, balance bloom times, some to hang late, some to pick early and eat.

My limited apple tree knowledge suggests HC should be cold hardy to zone 3, bloom mid to late spring, and is a good cross pollinator to may other apple trees.

It was also the dominant tree in Bill Mayo's orchard in northern Vermont where he developed the Franklin Cider tree.

Open to any and more experienced thoughts on my above approach.

 

[KickapooKid#1]

Are you in Wisconsin? I am considering Honeycrisp, would like to hear local obsrvations.

Yes. Southwest Wisconsin.