Cuddelink general Q&A recommendations

[john volkman]

Starting this thread for anyone using the Cuddelink system that needs help. Hopefully others can learn from these posts ,shorten the learning curve and simplify things. As always, i'm available via PM if you need specific help as well. Ill add to this thread the process I use for setting up my networks and others are welcome to do so as well. If you have a specific issue with cuddeback CS or myself i just ask that you start another thread or add to an existing one that isnt mine. i want to keep the posts on mine specific to those needing help. As i stated in the other thread I cleared this with Bill ahead of time earlier this fall.

 

[john volkman]

Some basic trouble shooting tips that help clear up issues.
1. Set your cameras height low enough. Cuddeback cameras have a very defined detection zone. I like to set mine waist high at the highest. Often times i set them thighhigh. Deer , turkeys etc are lower than people realize at times. I like to use a pole mount or metal fence post to get them the height i want them.
2. Do a walk test with the camera armed , walk by it at 5,10 , 15, 20 ft perpendicular to the camera , pull the card and look at the images on a computer , phone reader etc.
3. IF this is your first set , set them up in your yard and try them out for a day or two to get familiar before deploying in the timber etc.
4. Pick a channel number that isnt likely a neighbor would use. If you are in wi, dont use #4 or #12. Everyone likes Favre and rodgers dont use those channel numbers. Channel 1 is also a good one to stay away from.
5. Get a good quality new SD card for each camera or at least format them when putting them in the camera by "clearing it in commands".
6. keep in mind atmospheric conditions when setting them up, High humidity and green cover restricts RF(CL) signal. if you get a good CL signal in july or august , your signals will only get better as fall comes.
7. if possible keep your home camera or cell unit centralized to your remote cams. I realize this isnt always possible depending on the site but if you can it will help make your system work even better.
8. Update firmware when ever its convenient. Its not normally a necessity to update firmware but its good practice to do so at least once a year to all cameras.By doing so your system will run the best. Ill try to keep everyone up to date on when its vital to do so. Here is a link for those that need it. https://www.cuddeback.com/update
Some computers need the file unzipped when copied to the card so try it both ways if it doesnt load on you cameras the first time as a zip file.
9. Battery choices- this is a personal opinion but shared by many inside Cuddeback. I use Rayovac batteries and have had excellent success with them. I also purchase them thru several outlets, one of them being EBAY where one can buy a bulk flat of 105 rayovac high energy batteries for as low as $61 including shipping, so for under .60 Cents per battery this allows me to run my cams for 4-6 months for under $4. The D battery I most often hear of when it comes to issues is Energizer , they can be a bit oversized and we have seen both life issues and operational issues in our cameras with energizer D's. I have heard word that Energizer recently bought out Rayovac so i am holding my breath hoping nothing changes at Rayovac, but we will definitely monitor it .

 

[cspot]

Mostly making this just so it is in my subscriptions. However I will add this to John's post above.

Almost all my issues with trail cameras over the years (both Cuddeback and others) usually comes down to the SD card and batteries. SD Cards do go bad overtime. I keep extras so that I can put in a new if I start having issues. I also reformat the card anytime I have them near my computer.

I have also had batteries that were "bad" right out of a new package. Doesn't happen alot but it does happen. You can always check the battery with a volt-meter.

 

[BWHunter]

Thanks John. I just posted something in the trail cam forum..had a few questions about batteries and ideas to make them last longer. I buy durable alkaline; haven't tried solars yet but seeing if I can do something to make some of the cameras last longer than 2 weeks as we do not live where we hunt....thanks for your help in advance

 

[john volkman]

Thanks John. I just posted something in the trail cam forum..had a few questions about batteries and ideas to make them last longer. I buy durable alkaline; haven't tried solars yet but seeing if I can do something to make some of the cameras last longer than 2 weeks as we do not live where we hunt....thanks for your help in advance

i recommend a battery booster on every camera- when running a 6 d cell booster. 120 days is very common and many exceed 180 days.

 

[BWHunter]

i recommend a battery booster on every camera- when running a 6 d cell booster. 120 days is very common and many exceed 180 days.

ok....I added the D accessory to replace the AA's....is that what you are talking about...also what adapter do I need for my home unit so I can plug in

Thanks for your help

 

[RRAB58]

SD cards are critical to camera's function. If the camera cannot write to SD card, the camera will not function. This error may halt further functions. To save space, I will let you Google what can damage SD cards. But one rule is to not remove SD card while it is reading or writing to SD card. So, how do you pull card? It most likely triggers when you opened the door. Also, if you let batteries run to failure and the camera dies in the middle of reading and writing, can your SD card be corrupted? Another rule I read about is not to let card get full or near full. The SD card can be corrected by simply formatting.

So here is my own little protocol. Be it what it is... I have a new blank card that I formatted in one of my Cudde cameras, then downloaded firmware on it. This is my specific Firmware card, not used for anything else. I do not think it is good to have other files on this card. I take it with me when I go to camera’s. When I reload firmware on a camera, I will definitely Clear/Format my regular card. When I put regular card in camera I Clear/Format card each and every time it goes in. If I change batteries, I'll Clear/Format card. This is 1 failure point that is simple to avoid.

If I suspect any issues, my own protocol is as follows:
1st- check to see if I fat-fingered settings.
2nd- check batteries voltage. Buy a voltage meter. Note batteries will average going dead at about 1.1v per cell.
3rd- reload Firmware into camera from my Firmware card.
4rd- swap SD card and format card.

The camera has a TEST mode with several test functions. You can do most of them at same time by simply ARMING camera and taking several pictures. Cover the camera lens and you will hear IR cut filter switch to night position. Looking through your iPhone camera you can see if Blackflash or IR Flashes (don't look at strobe!!). If it flashes, there is nothing wrong with your PIR. Pull your card and look and if there aren't any pictures on card, you can try reloading firmware & maybe swapping/Formatting SD card. (on this issue it may require customer service). If there are pictures on card, all is good. Review picture to see if intended area of target is in middle of screen.

Hope this helps,
Happy New Year !!

 

[john volkman]

ok....I added the D accessory to replace the AA's....is that what you are talking about...also what adapter do I need for my home unit so I can plug in

Thanks for your help

the d replacement battery pack will definitely help- i typically get 90-100 days out of the J with that pack on it. When i run G's- i run the booster on them with the 4 internal d's as back up and that set up averages 120 days on the externals , sometimes 180 days.
With the future J cameras having a 4 d pack , one could run the same set up and expect the same battery days.
You can also run the 3358 D booster on any J camera set up. You can run it without batteries in the camera or you can run it with aa batteries installed as back up. You could even run it with your current set up and the 6 d replacement pack meaning you would have 12 total d's running your camera .
running a 3358 booster with any camera will pay for itself in less than a year .

 

[RRAB58]

Often there's some confusion around the terms "Zones" and "Centered". I think this may be a good topic to discuss. There are 2 totally different "Zones" that are discussed. (**IF...you are not concerned about a better picture, just use Wide & Wide. It really doesn't matter.**) John and FredG please correct me as needed

The first is the "Detections Zone" (Centered & Wide). Centered=Narrow. The detection zone (or angles) are fixed by lens design. The angles can be narrowed by covering edges of the Fresnel lens via the sliding shutter. This is the "Zone Control". You can leave lens uncovered for a wider angle of detection or cover it up for a narrower angle of detection. The philosophy of using this shutter to narrow detection zone, is that the deer will be more in front (Centered) of the camera's view when it is detected and triggers a picture.

The second is an internal setting "Exposure Zone" (Centered & Wide). **Exposure zone not to be confused as having anything that affects detection. This is associated with the camera's light meter and which area of the view it is using to determine exposure. This exposure setting does not help get more or less pictures of deer on edges or in the middle. You want the camera sensor mostly capturing the light from the area the deer is at. The Exposure setting- "Centered", has the camera's sensors, that sense the central part of the camera's view, more sensitive to light than the edges. So if the deer is in the middle of screen, then that is where camera sensor should concentrate on. Here is the connection with "Zone Control" and "Exposure Zone". The narrow detection angle or "Centered-Zone Control" ensures deer will be more in center of view before triggering. And with deer more in the center, it is better to have the camera sensing this central area for exposure by using the "Centered-Exposure setting".

Your iPhone camera uses similar technology. Touch the screen where you want camera to prioritize shot. A yellow box appears and light is adjusted to the light sensed mostly in that area. Move the box, it re-adjusts to new area.

 

[Boone]

I checked allow more images as my data ran out. How long before my account is active again and the camera sends pics? Its been about a day and a half so far, thanks.

 

[john volkman]

I checked allow more images as my data ran out. How long before my account is active again and the camera sends pics? Its been about a day and a half so far, thanks.

if you checked it after the data ran out( the report isnt always real time) you may need to call CS to make sure the change happened in time. You can also look on your camp page on cuddeback.com cell management to make sure your plan is active.

 

[john volkman]

Often there's some confusion around the terms "Zones" and "Centered". I think this may be a good topic to discuss. There are 2 totally different "Zones" that are discussed. (**IF...you are not concerned about a better picture, just use Wide & Wide. It really doesn't matter.**) John and FredG please correct me as needed

The first is the "Detections Zone" (Centered & Wide). Centered=Narrow. The detection zone (or angles) are fixed by lens design. The angles can be narrowed by covering edges of the Fresnel lens via the sliding shutter. This is the "Zone Control". You can leave lens uncovered for a wider angle of detection or cover it up for a narrower angle of detection. The philosophy of using this shutter to narrow detection zone, is that the deer will be more in front (Centered) of the camera's view when it is detected and triggers a picture.

The second is an internal setting "Exposure Zone" (Centered & Wide). **Exposure zone not to be confused as having anything that affects detection. This is associated with the camera's light meter and which area of the view it is using to determine exposure. This exposure setting does not help get more or less pictures of deer on edges or in the middle. You want the camera sensor mostly capturing the light from the area the deer is at. The Exposure setting- "Centered", has the camera's sensors that sense the central part of the camera's view more sensitive to light than the edges. So if the deer is in the middle of screen, then that is where camera sensor should concentrate on. Here is the connection with "Zone Control" and "Exposure Zone". The narrow detection angle or "Centered-Zone Control" ensures deer will be more in center of view before triggering. And with deer more in the center, it is better to have the camera sensing this central area for exposure by using the "Centered-Exposure setting".

Your iPhone camera uses similar technology. Touch the screen where you want camera to prioritize shot. A yellow box appears and light is adjusted to the light sensed mostly in that area. Move the box, it re-adjusts to new area.

to add to this, one can also replace the fresnel lens with a centered version (available to purchase ) that will increase your detection distance but somewhat restrict the detection area. IF you have cameras that are in full sun for a long period fo time its also not a bad idea to replace the fresnel lens periodically as sunlight can degrade the lens and affect performance.

 

[cspot]

the d replacement battery pack will definitely help- i typically get 90-100 days out of the J with that pack on it. When i run G's- i run the booster on them with the 4 internal d's as back up and that set up averages 120 days on the externals , sometimes 180 days.
With the future J cameras having a 4 d pack , one could run the same set up and expect the same battery days.
You can also run the 3358 D booster on any J camera set up. You can run it without batteries in the camera or you can run it with aa batteries installed as back up. You could even run it with your current set up and the 6 d replacement pack meaning you would have 12 total d's running your camera .
running a 3358 booster with any camera will pay for itself in less than a year .

John, If I run the new dual battery bank on a J's without any internal batteries should I expect 200+days on that setup?

 

[john volkman]

John, If I run the new dual battery bank on a J's without any internal batteries should I expect 200+days on that setup?

with alkaline in both banks i would expect that or more. I havent had any of mine out that long so i dont have personal experience that long but the expectation would be that.

 

[cspot]

with alkaline in both banks i would expect that or more. I havent had any of mine out that long so i dont have personal experience that long but the expectation would be that.

Thanks. That is the route that I am going to go. I had the solar panels this year and they worked pretty good especially the one in full sun. The other 2 locations (partial sun) they worked pretty well, but would eventually go dead. Still they worked way better than using standard batteries and paid for themselves this year. I would rather get the dual battery banks and then not have to worry even though it will cost me some more $$ per year. If I put out in March with a full set of batteries then I can change them out in late August/First September with a fresh set. My main timeframe that I don't want an issue with batteries going dead is Oct thru the 1st of January. Sounds like I wouldn't have to worry about them. I still might run solar on the one camera where it gets full sun, and I have a 3358 too, so I may run it on a camera where I am not as concerned about it going dead and would be easy to change if it does.

If any member here is looking for the solar panels here shoot me a PM as I will make you a good deal on a couple.

 

[john volkman]

Thanks. That is the route that I am going to go. I had the solar panels this year and they worked pretty good especially the one in full sun. The other 2 locations (partial sun) they worked pretty well, but would eventually go dead. Still they worked way better than using standard batteries and paid for themselves this year. I would rather get the dual battery banks and then not have to worry even though it will cost me some more $$ per year. If I put out in March with a full set of batteries then I can change them out in late August/First September with a fresh set. My main timeframe that I don't want an issue with batteries going dead is Oct thru the 1st of January. Sounds like I wouldn't have to worry about them. I still might run solar on the one camera where it gets full sun, and I have a 3358 too, so I may run it on a camera where I am not as concerned about it going dead and would be easy to change if it does.

If any member here is looking for the solar panels here shoot me a PM as I will make you a good deal on a couple.

Keep in mind you can run solar in conjunction with the dual power bank . That type of set up may give you over a year or longer . Also it’s important to note that when running the dual power bank all cameras in the network have to be at least on7.7 firmware . With 8.0 coming soon you may as well wait for that update and do all your cams so you have remote control of everything from your phone or computer.

 

[cspot]

Keep in mind you can run solar in conjunction with the dual power bank . That type of set up may give you over a year or longer . Also it’s important to note that when running the dual power bank all cameras in the network have to be at least on7.7 firmware . With 8.0 coming soon you may as well wait for that update and do all your cams so you have remote control of everything from your phone or computer.

Hmm. I may do that, but I also had a couple of the rechargeable batteries this year go bad on me for some reason. I may just stick with the single use batteries if I am getting 6 months of life out of them. Would only cost be about $15-20 per year per camera depending on what I can get the batteries for.

I will need to update my firmware prior to using them as I think I am 7.6 I usually bring my cameras home in the Spring sometime and update firmware, reformat SD cards, and give them a cleanup prior to putting them back out. I run cameras year around but in the March-May timeframe, I usually only leave a couple out. Often it is just my cheaper regular trail cams.

 

[roosterstraw]

I have a camera that has been getting behind on sending images and just can’t seem to catch up. Yesterday it was at 70 image que and today it’s at 120 image que. There are no other cameras that are keeping it from sending. It has good signal strength (50). It has done good since I put it out but this is the second time it has backed up in the month of December. I am still receiving pics from that camera it is just really really slow at sending them to the home for some reason? It also has the newest firmware and is set on 30 second interval.

 

[RRAB58]

I have a camera that has been getting behind on sending images and just can’t seem to catch up. Yesterday it was at 70 image que and today it’s at 120 image que. There are no other cameras that are keeping it from sending. It has good signal strength (50). It has done good since I put it out but this is the second time it has backed up in the month of December. I am still receiving pics from that camera it is just really really slow at sending them to the home for some reason? It also has the newest firmware and is set on 30 second interval.

Post your report. Let’s see what may be going on.

 

[john volkman]

I have a camera that has been getting behind on sending images and just can’t seem to catch up. Yesterday it was at 70 image que and today it’s at 120 image que. There are no other cameras that are keeping it from sending. It has good signal strength (50). It has done good since I put it out but this is the second time it has backed up in the month of December. I am still receiving pics from that camera it is just really really slow at sending them to the home for some reason? It also has the newest firmware and is set on 30 second interval.

what is your camera delay set at and what kind of set up is the camera on? maybe post a recent pic form that camera as well.