Which oak do i need?

[Northbound]

I've been clearing a fence line of mostly box elder, and ash (hate to do it but I'm assuming their going extinct and I need firewood)..
Leaving the oaks stand (I belive they are white oak,) and black cherry stand. I'd like to add more oaks to this line but idk what to order.
The ground is very high and dry. One of those fields you have to be cautious about working ground late and losing moisture. Trees will get full sun as this line fence runs east/west. So what do I order? Bur, white, swamp white, pin, red, ???
Of course I want fast growth and acorn production, but realistically what grows best on this ground is what matters. From description I've read from nurseries it sounds like burr oak may be best?

 

[TreeDaddy]

Google up "Texas Tree Selector"

You may have a similar section on your state parks and wildlife site

bill

 

[Bowsnbucks]

My camp has white oaks growing in open fields with full sun and they have HUGE canopies that drop bushels of acorns. It's on higher ground that drains well and dries out pretty well in summer. Northern red oak should grow well in that situation too. We also have a bunch of those on high, dry ground and they dump loads of acorns as well. Red oaks grow on the tops of dry ridges all around my camp area.

 

[j-bird]

I would simply look at what is native in your area and of those what will handle a drier soil and plant several different types.

I have a well drained sandy loam type soil and Norther red oak, chinkapin and burr oak are the main oaks on my place. I wouldn't even consider seeing an acorn for 20 years however.

Also consider shrubs. Shrubs will grow faster and produce cover for this fence line....which means deer activity as many fence rows connect one block of cover to another. Shrubs can provide browse and sometimes soft mast as well. Also consider planting clusters of a few conifers (for future ground blind cover).

Keep in mind that many fence rows are a property line and if it is in farm country farmers remove fence rows to boost crop production by removing the competition for water and light. Make sure you are not investing into something that somebody is going to remove in the blink of an eye in a few years. Fence rows are great cover for quail and the like as well. With cover and food you could really turn a fence row into a monster buck trap.

 

[Northbound]

I would simply look at what is native in your area and of those what will handle a drier soil and plant several different types.

I have a well drained sandy loam type soil and Norther red oak, chinkapin and burr oak are the main oaks on my place. I wouldn't even consider seeing an acorn for 20 years however.

Also consider shrubs. Shrubs will grow faster and produce cover for this fence line....which means deer activity as many fence rows connect one block of cover to another. Shrubs can provide browse and sometimes soft mast as well. Also consider planting clusters of a few conifers (for future ground blind cover).

Keep in mind that many fence rows are a property line and if it is in farm country farmers remove fence rows to boost crop production by removing the competition for water and light. Make sure you are not investing into something that somebody is going to remove in the blink of an eye in a few years. Fence rows are great cover for quail and the like as well. With cover and food you could really turn a fence row into a monster buck trap.

The fence is entirely on my side of prop line as we just had it surveyed, ag fields on both sides. Last year I planted 3000 white pine on 3x3 spacing on north side of fence(plan on losses). Cutting the fence trees now. Figured partial shade their first year would help establishment. This year adding two rows of Norway spruce north of pines. I was going to plant apples on the fence but after admiring the 8 giant oaks currently on the fence- I'm thinking I should add some as these oaks won't last forever. I don't know how to identify oak trees, just recall neighbor saying they where white oaks. This pine thickened fence will connect about 300 acres of timber to a 2 acre orchard and 2 acre food plot.

 

[j-bird]

The fence is entirely on my side of prop line as we just had it surveyed, ag fields on both sides. Last year I planted 3000 white pine on 3x3 spacing on north side of fence(plan on losses). Cutting the fence trees now. Figured partial shade their first year would help establishment. This year adding two rows of Norway spruce north of pines. I was going to plant apples on the fence but after admiring the 8 giant oaks currently on the fence- I'm thinking I should add some as these oaks won't last forever. I don't know how to identify oak trees, just recall neighbor saying they where white oaks. This pine thickened fence will connect about 300 acres of timber to a 2 acre orchard and 2 acre food plot.

Just keep in mind some times folks use "white oak" as a general term as there are 2 types of oak classifications, white and red. Red oak family generally produces an acorn crop every other year while white oak family members tend to produce acorns annually. Get pics of some of the dried leaves from these oaks and we can help you better identify them if you wish. Native oaks that prefer your soil conditions will do much better than trying to "force" something to grow there. Sounds like you have a great plan for that area as well.

 

[Northbound]

Yeah if you can identify that'd be great. Pic attached.
Is there some way I can identify young oaks this time of year? Maybe I can find some growing naturally and just tube them to help there odds.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

Those pix are of red oak. Red oaks have points on the ends of the leaf lobes - white oaks have rounded ends on the leaf lobes. Easiest way to tell them apart.

 

[OakSeeds]

Yeah if you can identify that'd be great. Pic attached.
Is there some way I can identify young oaks this time of year? Maybe I can find some growing naturally and just tube them to help there odds.

BNB .... you faster than me :-)
That's a rede oak leaf in your photo; see the pointed end of the leaves. White oaks have lobes thar are rounded on the end.
Here are white oak leaves



These are 2 different types of columnar white oaks; great trees for interior screens.

 

[Northbound]

Thanks guys, guess the ol timer neighbor was wrong, and me too for assuming he knew.

 

[bwoods11]

I would recommend a hybrid oak that is rated for your zone...I personally like the Swamp Bur Oak Hybrid..I am in MN

 

[Ben.MN/WI]

I would pick up acorns that fall from the trees you have growing on that fenceline and throw a few on the ground where you want an oak tree and cover with an inch or two of loose dirt. Repeat that process about 100 times along your fenceline and you'll have oak trees that will definitely grow well on that site and it won't cost you a penny.

For variety, I would also mix some white and/or bur oak acorns in with your red oak acorns. It usually works best to find trees growing in that general area, so if there are some nice oaks in a nearby park or yard that would be a good acorn source.

 

[Northbound]

The hybrids all seem to be in warmer climates, never find any listed from nurseries within a few hundred miles so I've just assumed I should stick with the basics. Again I'm new to planting anything besides fruit and conifers.

If you plant acorns direct, should I tube them as well or wait to see if they actually germinate? Since the difference in leaves was pointed out to me I did find white oaks on another fence line.

 

[Ben.MN/WI]

If deer browsing is an issue in that area, I would just tube or cage them in fall after they have been growing for 6 months. I would just find the strongest growers and cage them. I've never caged the oaks I've planted from acorns, but I don't have high deer numbers on my WI property.

 

[ksgobbler]

I would recommend a hybrid oak that is rated for your zone...I personally like the Swamp Bur Oak Hybrid..I am in MN

Where are you getting Schuette oaks from?

 

[OakSeeds]

NB ... if you have a couple of ash trees in the fence line that don't already show substantial damage (30% or less) from ash bores, you can treat them very easily and rather inexpensively ... assuming you might like to keep a couple of them. The termiticide - imidacloprid - in a 21% solution (e.g., Dominion 2L) is quite effective for tree bores (including emerald ash bores). I have an ash tree believed to be close to a state record on my property (137-inch cir. / approx 45-inch DBH) that I have treated for 7 years with no evidence of bore infestation. If you prefer the expensive route, contact a licensed applicator of TREE-age and have the trees injected; effective for 2 years rather than the require3d annual treatment with a product like imidiclopride. Give me a shout if I can answer any questions.

 

[Northbound]

I am interested in saving some if not to difficult. I did leave 5 or so that had no damage yet and my other fences have some healthy ash. Being a guy that heats only with wood I'm very fond of ash trees for there ease of splitting and good heat. Hate to see them all go but also know I'm better off getting some other trees started to take over. I'd guess 40% of the woods around me is white ash. Pm sent also

 

[Bowsnbucks]

Young oak growth is a highly preferred browse item in most places. If it were me, I'd cage them as they sprout ( acorn route ), and for sure cage them if you buy seedlings. Why take a chance with money output and time / labor invested ?? Oaks grow really slowly as it is, so why start all over if you can prevent browsing from the get-go ??

 

[H20fwler]

For fast growth and fast nut production pinoak would be my choice, maybe mix some in with some slower growing bigger white oaks.

 

[bwoods11]

Where are you getting Schuette oaks from?

Kelly Tree Farm in Iowa. I have oaks with acorns in 5-7 years in MN. This one in picture is probably 5 years old, it is now a bit taller and spread out