Real World Products

[S.T.Fanatic]

I am planning on rotating my TNM brassica plot into soybeans next season and was considering trying the real world northern blend soybeans. Has anyone tried them? Would I be better off just buying a bag off RR ag beans in a later maturing variety? I usually get my beans from the MDHA but the pods usually shatter and all the beans get buried under snow. Looking for something that will hold the beans in the pod until spring and thought the real world product sounded good.

 

[Bill]

Never tried them. For some reason I don't seem to have a shatter problem with regular ag beans. Maybe because we don't get as cold as your neck of the woods for long periods.

I've used Higgins switch grass and can say it performs as advertised. It may be worth trying a bag and seeing how it goes.

 

[swat1018]

I used them in NE MO once and they grew well and didn't shatter. I've had the same luck with regular ag beans, I can get for free. I also have 2 of my plots shattering bad this year with AG beans, for some reason.

 

[yoderjac]

RWB are simply a mix of ag bean varieties selected for the characteristics Don likes and mixed in a ratio he likes for deer. If they happen to be the set of characteristics that work for you and you don't mind paying the premium, there is nothing wrong with them. If you want to save money, simply go to your local coop, and chat with the manager about the characteristics you want in an ag bean.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[Mortenson]

I second what Jack said. Just a quick glance at the Pioneer website shows a good amount of group 0-2 beans with shatter scores of 8 (9 being best). I plugged in a MN zip. Other bean brands including Asgrow as the biggest would have something similar. Ask for leftovers, returns, broken bags, treated beans unused in a probox leftover, etc in the characteristics you want. I also wouldn't be afraid to try Dons if the price is right. People usually seem happy with his products.

 

[S.T.Fanatic]

I think I'll check local for left over. Any idea what 50# of RR ag beans run? The real world was $65 a bag and I guess i didn't look at how much was in a bag.

 

[Mortenson]

Seed size can run from 2K up to 4K seeds per lb. That makes a big difference in how much you get if you only buy by the lb. Most of the ag suppliers have gone to a system where you buy it by the 140K (most common) per unit. For damaged bags or returned seed I'd see if you can get if for close to nothing, and go up from there. I'd think they'd certainly let go of that kind of stuff for a small amount, maybe 20-30 would be fair.

 

[Ben.MN/WI]

I think I'll check local for left over. Any idea what 50# of RR ag beans run? The real world was $65 a bag and I guess i didn't look at how much was in a bag.

I don't know what part of SE MN you are from, but I pick my RR soybeans from Benson's in Lewiston for $25 for a 50 pound bag. You just need to tell them you want a bag of leftover soybeans for a deer food plot and they will help you out if they have any left. They work great and I plant them every year. Good luck-

 

[Mortenson]

Never tried them. For some reason I don't seem to have a shatter problem with regular ag beans. Maybe because we don't get as cold as your neck of the woods for long periods.

I've used Higgins switch grass and can say it performs as advertised. It may be worth trying a bag and seeing how it goes.

Hey Bill, do you have any guess what kind of switch he's using? I've heard people say they thought Kanlow. I considered trying a small bag of his bedding mix, but I don't have a drill to use. So broadcasting switch alone works better for me.

 

[Bill]

Hey Bill, do you have any guess what kind of switch he's using? I've heard people say they thought Kanlow. I considered trying a small bag of his bedding mix, but I don't have a drill to use. So broadcasting switch alone works better for me.

I don't, according to Don Higgins it's a mix he came up with. It may contain Kanlow. I know it's much taller than my CIR. And stands just as well. His bedding in a bag is also a mix with bluestem. Personally, I don't like bluestem. My first try at native grass was big/ little blue and Indian grass. Way to thick for deer to enjoy navigating IMO. Could be I planted to heavy.

The 10 acres I have of Don's switch grass was price competitive with CIR so I gave it a shot.
Some guys can't stand the guy because he's making $ off the sport or what ever? And won't recommend his stuff. I personally have no beef with the guy and if I did I'd still use his product if I needed it and it's good or even better than others.

Here the bluestem. Very tall and very thick.



Here is the switch with my side by side in it. I know it looks just as thick but it's easier to navigate around the clumps.
Deer live in here and does love hiding from bucks here when thier being dogged.

 

[meyerske]

I don't, according to Don Higgins it's a mix he came up with. It may contain Kanlow. I know it's much taller than my CIR. And stands just as well. His bedding in a bag is also a mix with bluestem. Personally, I don't like bluestem. My first try at native grass was big/ little blue and Indian grass. Way to thick for deer to enjoy navigating IMO. Could be I planted to heavy.

The 10 acres I have of Don's switch grass was price competitive with CIR so I gave it a shot.
Some guys can't stand the guy because he's making $ off the sport or what ever? And won't recommend his stuff. I personally have no beef with the guy and if I did I'd still use his product if I needed it and it's good or even better than others.

Here the bluestem. Very tall and very thick.

View attachment 15780

Here is the switch with my side by side in it. I know it looks just as thick but it's easier to navigate around the clumps.
Deer live in here and does love hiding from bucks here when thier being dogged.

View attachment 15781

I'd like to try NWSG, but Don has said that if you don't burn it every couple of years, don't bother planting it. I'm not going to burn. Anyone manage grasses without burning?

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[swat1018]

I'd like to try NWSG, but Don has said that if you don't burn it every couple of years, don't bother planting it. I'm not going to burn. Anyone manage grasses without burning?

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Why don't you want to burn? Plant a ring of clover around it, that will stay green and serve as a fire break. If you are dead set against burning, you can also lightly disc it. It takes some management in one way or another.

 

[Bill]

Why don't you want to burn? Plant a ring of clover around it, that will stay green and serve as a fire break. If you are dead set against burning, you can also lightly disc it. It takes some management in one way or another.

I agree it takes some management. I did my first burn of about an acre this spring. I was/am afraid to burn the neighborhood down. You can get a few years with nothing. My first field of bluestem is growing up in cedars. Personally I like them for cover so I haven't done anything. I have about 10 acres of switch that was getting weedy after about 7 years. I sprayed it with 2,4-D and it helped for a few years but now the blackberries are taking over.

I'm going to have to eventually use herbicide on the blackberry and burn or do nothing and let it convert to early successional habitat. Kinda leaning that way. Back before NRCS made CRP maintainance rules there was some nasty thick over grown CRP fields in my neighborhood. That decision will be based on what's taking over. If it's useless invasive stuff burning may be the only option.

 

[meyerske]

Why don't you want to burn? Plant a ring of clover around it, that will stay green and serve as a fire break. If you are dead set against burning, you can also lightly disc it. It takes some management in one way or another.

Due to the location of houses and a general concern about liability, burning is just not an option for me. I would consider hiring a burning expert but I doubt there are any local sources.

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[john volkman]

if you dont want to burn I've had good luck with mowing at the correct time(just before the grasses emerge from dormancy)

 

[meyerske]

if you dont want to burn I've had good luck with mowing at the correct time(just before the grasses emerge from dormancy)

How often do you mow?

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[john volkman]

How often do you mow?

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i dont have a set schedule but every 3-4 years has worked for me, the key is to not mow to early , if you do you will give the cool season plants a chance to set up shop, you want to do it just before or as the natives are coming alive which can be dependent on soil temp.

 

[homegrownbucks]

We have never burned, out switchgrass always emerges through the thick thatch. Our patches are about 10 years old and very thick.

 

[john volkman]

We have never burned, out switchgrass always emerges through the thick thatch. Our patches are about 10 years old and very thick.

ive noticed the same thing , i have mowed sparingly when i thought it needed a jump start, i have also fertilized some of my switch fields and noticed it helped give it more height.

 

[Plottin'booners]

If you know any farmers in the area you could offer to vacuum out the planter boxes for them after they finish and you keep the seed. We usually have 2 or 3 bags left over and i am carefull to only open what I will need. Or you could offer to clean out the combine and grain cart before they start corn.....and dispose of them in your field in the spring.....