New Barn Build - 25x36 Pole Barn
- Thread starter Natty Bumppo
- Start date
Natty Bumppo
5 year old buck +
Knee braces would be diagonal between the bottom of the truss to the posts. Our sheds have them, but I don't think they're absolutely necessary. They're extra strength against shifting. Great looking build- you will pat yourself on the back big time for putting that style of trusses in, even if it was an accident!Are you running electric, water and/or drainage in the floor of the building? If you're not completely sure, make sure before concrete- a lot easer to put it in first rather than cut concrete later!
Thanks Jeff. I did actually put down perforated pipe in the stone that we brought in and I day-lighted it down the hill to keep water away from underneath the pad. I also put in a nice swale uphill from the entire building to direct water around the building. Not going to bring water out, but will eventually run power out there. My plan is to install a nice 12' lift in one of the bays...maybe next summer. Thanks for your thoughts.
Natty Bumppo
5 year old buck +
Thanks Jordan. Yes, not sure about other regions, but here in my neck of the woods we have heavy, wet clay soils and 6x6 posts in the ground tend to rot right at ground level. 4' down they're fine. And 12' up they're fine. But where you have water and oxygen, even with PT wood, the posts rot in about 40 years.
Natty Bumppo
5 year old buck +
Thanks. Interesting. I did some searching about knee braces quickly because I have not heard of them and found a few sites that advised not putting them in, especially if the trusses have not been specifically engineered to sustain that kind of a load. Here's a link:
http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/01/post-frame-construction-knee-braces/
Natty Bumppo
5 year old buck +
You got it buckdeer1. I was going to actually go with a triple 2x6 glue-lam as you mentioned. I forget why in the end I decided to to go with 6x6's? In hindsight, I think I would have made my own triple 2x6's columns out of KD...screwed and glued...there's really no need for PT wood with the cement bases.
4wanderingeyes
5 year old buck +
Are you intending on having a living quarters in the rafters? Or just storage?
Natty Bumppo
5 year old buck +
Just storage. Our house is on a cement slab, so we really are looking forward to having some awesome storage space. Plus...it has not escaped me...I could add stairs and a large deck to one gable end and then room off a little 14x12' end of the attic for a little hunting base station complete with an elevated practice shooting position.
Looks great,. I used room in attic trusses when I built my shop/garage. When you install the floor and walls of the attic it will stiffen the framing up and make it rock solid.
I would recommend a 4ft wide stair case to the attic. My wife and kids go up there all the time and it's a lot safer than those pull down type stairs designed to go between the trusses. I built the stairs inside because of snow and ice in winter.
Make sure to add plenty of Windows, it's so convenient not to have to use the lights every time you go in to grab something.
I would recommend a 4ft wide stair case to the attic. My wife and kids go up there all the time and it's a lot safer than those pull down type stairs designed to go between the trusses. I built the stairs inside because of snow and ice in winter.
Make sure to add plenty of Windows, it's so convenient not to have to use the lights every time you go in to grab something.
swat1018
5 year old buck +
Yea, I use the laminated post. It makes the "notch" for the band boards easy. I just cut back the outside and inside 2x6 and put a band board on each side.
Red Picqua
5 year old buck +
very interesting.. I would point that out to the building inspector if you are called out on it. My initial concern for the knee braces are your post spacing past or up to 8ft. the original code called for pole buildings to be 6ft on center and recently it changed to 8ft. Hence why most building packages you see on the "sites" are always divisible by 8ft. More posts... more money $$$$$$$$$$$$
Natty Bumppo
5 year old buck +
The 6 week Massachusetts bow season ended today and I have nothing to report....so I thought I'd post and update of my barn build. Since posting this thread back at the end of August I have made some decent progress. The weather was, and remains, on my side this fall. Hoping to have it buttoned up by the time the snow flies.
Here you see all the purlins in place, the fascia and soffit boards in place, both ladders installed on the gable ends, and the framing for the transom windows in place. Also, I had the cement pad poured about mid September. My K10 is happy to have a roof over its head!
Here you see all the purlins in place, the fascia and soffit boards in place, both ladders installed on the gable ends, and the framing for the transom windows in place. Also, I had the cement pad poured about mid September. My K10 is happy to have a roof over its head!
Natty Bumppo
5 year old buck +
Last week I got the metal roof on...everything except for the ridge cap. Not sure how I am going to tackle that. Might have to get clever with some ladders and rope. But it's up.
And on Black Friday I started the siding. I am using 1x12 ship-lap pine that I will eventually add a batten strip to. Since I didn't use any plywood or OSB I put down some Tyvek on the purlins as a water barrier. I am anxious to get this buttoned up, so I sacrificed hunting on Friday to make some progress. Below you see the results.... I should be able to finish up that gable end tomorrow and complete the front of the building as well.
And on Black Friday I started the siding. I am using 1x12 ship-lap pine that I will eventually add a batten strip to. Since I didn't use any plywood or OSB I put down some Tyvek on the purlins as a water barrier. I am anxious to get this buttoned up, so I sacrificed hunting on Friday to make some progress. Below you see the results.... I should be able to finish up that gable end tomorrow and complete the front of the building as well.
Catscratch
5 year old buck +
Absolutely love it! Good job.
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Mibowhunter91
A good 3 year old buck
I like it good job!
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Big Snow Man
5 year old buck +
Great looking shed
Bowsnbucks
5 year old buck +
I just found this thread, Natty. SUPER barn/shed !!!! Excellent with storage space above. Board & batten with red metal roof = COOL !!! I like the concrete base posts. Those keep the rot away. Any new pix of this barn ??
If you plant to bring power to the barn, where will it come from - your house, or a separate pole yet to be set ?? Either way, plan on a panel going in the barn. Drive at least 2 ground rods for that panel - 6 ft. distance minimum between them ( more is better ). If it's coming from the house, I'd highly recommend using PVC conduit underground as opposed to direct-burial cable. If you have rocky soil, you don't want frost heaving those rocks like a grinder around the cable. Direct-burial cable CAN be done with proper code work - meaning a buffer zone 360 degrees all around the cable with sand and fines (small stone screenings). Check with your codes people. PVC conduit is cheap and is also a permanent barrier to cable damage AND a clear route underground if you should ever need to replace that cable. I always opt for the PVC conduit. Once and done. Also check with your codes people about lightning protection for the barn and grounding everything there in the barn. Ground-fault circuit interrupting receptacles throughout. Safety first !!! (I'm a big construction / industrial electrician for 37 years.) Local codes can vary from place to place.
If you plant to bring power to the barn, where will it come from - your house, or a separate pole yet to be set ?? Either way, plan on a panel going in the barn. Drive at least 2 ground rods for that panel - 6 ft. distance minimum between them ( more is better ). If it's coming from the house, I'd highly recommend using PVC conduit underground as opposed to direct-burial cable. If you have rocky soil, you don't want frost heaving those rocks like a grinder around the cable. Direct-burial cable CAN be done with proper code work - meaning a buffer zone 360 degrees all around the cable with sand and fines (small stone screenings). Check with your codes people. PVC conduit is cheap and is also a permanent barrier to cable damage AND a clear route underground if you should ever need to replace that cable. I always opt for the PVC conduit. Once and done. Also check with your codes people about lightning protection for the barn and grounding everything there in the barn. Ground-fault circuit interrupting receptacles throughout. Safety first !!! (I'm a big construction / industrial electrician for 37 years.) Local codes can vary from place to place.
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Natty Bumppo
5 year old buck +
Hey Bowsnbucks. I went out this afternoon and snapped a few pics. Thanks for your kind words and your tips. I really appreciate you taking the time to write and offer your expertise. I am going to bring 220 from the main panel in my house. The PVC conduit is smart!
We've had a few mild weekends so I was able to get some more pine boards up. I finished all 4 walls last weekend. Now I just have to do the trim and the batten strips. Garage doors, entry doors, transom windows, and stairs and a small deck to the 2nd floor entry door will all happen this summer. If I have the money, I will also do a shed roof off the back wall for implement storage. I'm also hoping to put a 2 post car lift in this summer.
Thanks again for your tips. Very helpful!
