Erecting a ladder stand with one person

I read through the comments and i didn't see that anyone else sets them how i do. It takes two people, usually my wife helps, I take the bottom section off of the ladder stand, lean the ladder stand against the tree, Take a deep breath and lift the stand up while my wife sets the bottom section into place, then i lower the top onto the bottom ladder, fastest way i have found. I know the topic is one person, but thought i would share this method.
 
Holy crap, you guys sure make getting into a tree a major project. And how on earth do you quickly and quietly move a ladder during the season when it's not in the right place? This thread has reinforced in my mind that I'm gonna keep hunting out of my lock-on stands.
 
Holy crap, you guys sure make getting into a tree a major project. And how on earth do you quickly and quietly move a ladder during the season when it's not in the right place? This thread has reinforced in my mind that I'm gonna keep hunting out of my lock-on stands.
well a BIG advantage to a ladderstand IMO is it can be left in place for yrs and yrs, so they can be set up in the off season, long time for deer to get used to them, and there way more comfortable than a loc on ever can be, due to more room, and they can be shielded to hind you, many perks to a ladderstand IMO don't forget MOST all loc on strands are NOT supposed to be on a tree for more than a few weeks(read the safety manual with any)

I have moved countless stands IN season, do so mid day, and have never seen any issue's with doing so, as long as I do not got go close into a bedding area
these are deer, most are accustomed to some disturbance due to most places are not super remote anymore!
like all things, pro's and con's to them all, use what youy like, but its NOT that big a deal using ladderstands, all the more so when you get the pro's with them1
 
Holy crap, you guys sure make getting into a tree a major project. And how on earth do you quickly and quietly move a ladder during the season when it's not in the right place? This thread has reinforced in my mind that I'm gonna keep hunting out of my lock-on stands.

You must have stand sites that are sure-fire bets from year to year? An inside corner bordering old fields and packed with wild apples for example. That's where I'm hanging a ladder stand. On the other hand, a nice bench on a steep oak ridge packed with scrapes and rubs...that's where I'll hang a lock-on. I think they each have their place.
 
Sit in a 21 foot millennium ladder for a few hours and you won't like a lock on. Comfy and safe.

For me it's easier to yank a ladder stand up with a 4 wheeler then to cling onto a tree and try and hang one.
 
You must have stand sites that are sure-fire bets from year to year? An inside corner bordering old fields and packed with wild apples for example. That's where I'm hanging a ladder stand. On the other hand, a nice bench on a steep oak ridge packed with scrapes and rubs...that's where I'll hang a lock-on. I think they each have their place.

I do have some spots that have produced well over the years but that's not why I don't understand the attraction to ladders.
Please don't take me wrong...I'm not ripping your guy's stand choice. To each his own. But in this thread, I've seen tractors, quads, pulleys, and multiple helpers to erect a ladder stand.
I'm usually a one man operation, sometimes a helper but I don't depend on one.
I want to be as versatile as possible. And no stand can compare to a lock-on for versatility. I can hide one in most any tree, at any height take advantage of cover or deer patterns. I can carry a stand, steps, and my bow all at one time. I can hang the stand and be in most trees within 20 minutes. My platform isn't large enough to square dance on, but it's plenty large enough to operate from. The larger the stand, the more a hunter moves around in it. I actually like a tiny platform. They hang in places where a larger platform can't fit.
A ladder is "X" feet...can't really go higher or lower without adding/subtracting sections.
It often cannot be tucked into multi-trunked trees or among branches.
Ladders are pretty hard to hide from the kind of hunters that like to hunt from other peoples stands.

For out of state hunts, I don't have to luxury of equipment to erect a 50 pound ladder and even if I did, I don't think landowners would always welcome running equipment/quads across their property. And I'm pretty sure that someone else would have hunted from it before I returned. Even if they didn't hunt out of it, they certainly walk over to check it out. I don't like that disturbance around my stands.

I'm not trying to talk you guys out of ladders and you won't talk me into one. Obviously enough hunters like them or there wouldn't be a market for them.
 
Sit in a 21 foot millennium ladder for a few hours and you won't like a lock on. Comfy and safe.

For me it's easier to yank a ladder stand up with a 4 wheeler then to cling onto a tree and try and hang one.

What happens when I don't want to be 21 feet? Maybe there's a cluster of branches that are exactly 21 feet. Cut them and eliminate the cover?
I have plenty of stand sites where it's impossible to get there with a quad.
My lock ons are safe and comfy enough.
Hey, live it up...hunt outta whatever stand makes you happy. Lock-ons make me happy.:emoji_slight_smile:
 
Btw, I'm sincerely sorry if I jacked the thread Jack. You didn't start the discussion to compare different types of stands. I apologize.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Btw, I'm sincerely sorry if I jacked the thread Jack. You didn't start the discussion to compare different types of stands. I apologize.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

No problem Tap. Here are my thoughts. From my perspective, ladder stands have a single standout advantage over hang-on type stands, safety. My personal preference has always been a hang-on stand where I can use them. In some of the environments I've hunted, you can't leave you stand when you go. Provided there were the right kind of trees in the right spots, a climber was my first choice there.

We have done a lot of habitat improvement on my place, and it definitely impacts stand locations. While terrain stays constant, vegetation changes over time change where deer bed, feed, and travel. About 8 years ago, I was using hang-on stands exclusively. I put up my first couple 2-man ladder stands so I could take out kids. I quickly found a few issues. First the stand comfort was horrible. Most had bench seats with a straight up and down back. No matter how much padding I used, I could only sit in them for a couple hours at most and it was hard for me to sit still. Kids were even worse and would fidget constantly just cause they were kids. That is when I started building box blinds. These are in permanent locations primarily over food sources where kids can see plenty of deer. I tried different sizes, primarily 6x8 and 8x8. I found 6x8 offered plenty of room to move enough around and do whatever I needed to help a kid. 8x8 cost a bit more to build with no benefit and mature deer seem to avoid larger structures during daylight, even after they have had years to acclimate. As structures get smaller and blend in more, this issue is reduced.

I was still doing my personal hunting out of hang-on stands. I began to have issues. I would go in in the afternoon when it was nice and warm and climb into a hang-on. By the end of shooting time, the temperature had dropped significantly. My arthritis would flair up and climbing down became challenging. After thinking I may need to call for help one night, I decided it was time to phase them out. I can hid a hang-on stand like no other and it definitely limits my stand site selection but ladder stands are safer for me to ascend and descend. By this time, companies had made some real improvements. My first millennium was a dream for comfort. The profile was not too large, and I could use one in crooked tree because of the double rail design. They are much tougher to erect with one person (thus this thread) and I don't relocate them. Other companies like Muddy are now focusing on seat design and comfort like the one pictured. They work great in straight trees but need a straight tree for the ladder brace because they are not a double rail design. They are much less expensive and I feel comfortable in them. They are lighter to transport and erect.

I don't move stands during the season. I try to get most of my stands established in the summer. You are right that sometimes after you hunt a stand you want to move it 50 yards or something based on deer movement for archery. I still use a climber for this where I can. I still feel safe using a climber because I'm not trying to feel for steps and I am with climbing aids for hang-on stands. I find this happening less. Perhaps I'm getting better at my initial selection of stand locations. For year to year movement, I simply add more stands. It is a cost, but old stands eventually come back into vogue.

Someone said you can leave ladderstands in place from year to year. I need to caveat that. If you simply leave them as is, it is unsafe. The tree will grow around the gripping bar over time. Once the tree is permanently attached, movement of the tree in storms will stress, weaken, and eventually crack the metal. My technique is to loosen the ratchet straps a the end of the season and leave a little slack. I keep the cross straps in place. I then move the stand a few inches toward the tree at the base moving the gripping bar up a few inches. This de-embeds the gripping bar from any growth and allows the stand to move as the tree sways in the wind. Before the season, I carefully climb back up and tighten the ratchet straps. This technique allows me to keep the stand in place from year to year.

One of my partners was in his 80s and had knee replacements. My elevated box blinds worked well to extend his hunting opportunity as even stairs were a struggle for him. I began to think about extending my own hunting opportunities after even ladder stands become difficult. I decided to build and try out an elevated box blind for myself: http://www.habitat-talk.com/index.php?threads/foodplot-stand-transfered-from-the-qdma-forum.5529/. It is 6x6. It is large enough that I can comfortably use a compound, crossbow, muzzleloader, or firearm from it. I sat in 4x4 boxes and found them much too small for me (I'm not a small guy). That particular stand uses an old ladder stand for entry. I did that to keep cost down, but my others all have stairs. I'd probably add stairs for future stands for aging.

I'm now finding myself hunting these box blinds more and more. Because of their locations, I see more deer during archery season (fewer shooter bucks) but fewer deer in archery shooting range (30 yards with a crossbow and 20 with a compound). I find I hunt more with them. Even in a comfortable treestand 3-4 hours is my limit, but I can hunt all day if I want in these box blinds. You will notice the one above has a urinal so I can relieve myself without exposure.

Things change as we get older. Either we find ways to accommodate our limitations, or we lose our passion for hunting and it becomes more talking about the old days. I'm not ready for the latter yet!

Thanks,

Jack
 
I went online looking for parts to make this even easier. I first found this: Knape & Vogt 208 Extra Heavy Duty Ultimate L-Bracket, 22 in L x 1-3/16 in W x 21.4 in D, White It says a pair will hold 1,000 pounds on a shelf. So, I'm figuring one can support 500 lbs from a single bracket which is more than it will need to lift for a ladderstand. It is only 3 lbs. While not as heavy duty as the contraption I made, it should be much easier to strap to the tree. I think I paid about $15 for it to my door through the walmart store.

The next item is a hand winch. It got this one from harbor freight: https://www.harborfreight.com/manual-strap-winch-95541.html. It is really overkill at 900lbs. Northern tool has a 600 lbs winch but it uses wire rope and I like straps. The strap on this is 20 foot. I plan to mount the winch on a short piece of 2x4 that I can attach to the tree with straps. I figure if I attach it at chest height, I'll have more than enough distance to lift any stand. I put a prussic knot in the existing rope and should be able to easily slide it to whatever position I need. With the typical 20% off HF coupon it ran me about $20.

I'll try to take some pictures next time I erect a ladder stand. I'm in the process of buying a homesite for retirement. It will be a few years until we build a house, so I bought a millennium stand for there. I have not yet assembled it but will soon. I'm expecting closing to occur in the next few weeks. That will give me an opportunity to test this out.

Thanks,

Jack
 
What happens when I don't want to be 21 feet? Maybe there's a cluster of branches that are exactly 21 feet. Cut them and eliminate the cover?
I have plenty of stand sites where it's impossible to get there with a quad.
My lock ons are safe and comfy enough.
Hey, live it up...hunt outta whatever stand makes you happy. Lock-ons make me happy.:emoji_slight_smile:

I always want to be 20 feet in the air :). Yep I'll cut the junk or find a better suited tree and manipulate the area so the deer go by the stand. Can't get to with a quad! I have a box in some strip mines you'd swear had to be helicoptered in.
It took 2 chain saws, a trailer on the 4 wheeler, a winch, 4 guys and cross ties from trees to the 4 wheeler to keep it from rolling sideways down the hill but it's there...

I hear you though, your way works for you. Sometimes ladders are harder but once in I love them for me.
 
No problem Tap. Here are my thoughts. From my perspective, ladder stands have a single standout advantage over hang-on type stands, safety. My personal preference has always been a hang-on stand where I can use them. In some of the environments I've hunted, you can't leave you stand when you go. Provided there were the right kind of trees in the right spots, a climber was my first choice there.

We have done a lot of habitat improvement on my place, and it definitely impacts stand locations. While terrain stays constant, vegetation changes over time change where deer bed, feed, and travel. About 8 years ago, I was using hang-on stands exclusively. I put up my first couple 2-man ladder stands so I could take out kids. I quickly found a few issues. First the stand comfort was horrible. Most had bench seats with a straight up and down back. No matter how much padding I used, I could only sit in them for a couple hours at most and it was hard for me to sit still. Kids were even worse and would fidget constantly just cause they were kids. That is when I started building box blinds. These are in permanent locations primarily over food sources where kids can see plenty of deer. I tried different sizes, primarily 6x8 and 8x8. I found 6x8 offered plenty of room to move enough around and do whatever I needed to help a kid. 8x8 cost a bit more to build with no benefit and mature deer seem to avoid larger structures during daylight, even after they have had years to acclimate. As structures get smaller and blend in more, this issue is reduced.

I was still doing my personal hunting out of hang-on stands. I began to have issues. I would go in in the afternoon when it was nice and warm and climb into a hang-on. By the end of shooting time, the temperature had dropped significantly. My arthritis would flair up and climbing down became challenging. After thinking I may need to call for help one night, I decided it was time to phase them out. I can hid a hang-on stand like no other and it definitely limits my stand site selection but ladder stands are safer for me to ascend and descend. By this time, companies had made some real improvements. My first millennium was a dream for comfort. The profile was not too large, and I could use one in crooked tree because of the double rail design. They are much tougher to erect with one person (thus this thread) and I don't relocate them. Other companies like Muddy are now focusing on seat design and comfort like the one pictured. They work great in straight trees but need a straight tree for the ladder brace because they are not a double rail design. They are much less expensive and I feel comfortable in them. They are lighter to transport and erect.

I don't move stands during the season. I try to get most of my stands established in the summer. You are right that sometimes after you hunt a stand you want to move it 50 yards or something based on deer movement for archery. I still use a climber for this where I can. I still feel safe using a climber because I'm not trying to feel for steps and I am with climbing aids for hang-on stands. I find this happening less. Perhaps I'm getting better at my initial selection of stand locations. For year to year movement, I simply add more stands. It is a cost, but old stands eventually come back into vogue.

Someone said you can leave ladderstands in place from year to year. I need to caveat that. If you simply leave them as is, it is unsafe. The tree will grow around the gripping bar over time. Once the tree is permanently attached, movement of the tree in storms will stress, weaken, and eventually crack the metal. My technique is to loosen the ratchet straps a the end of the season and leave a little slack. I keep the cross straps in place. I then move the stand a few inches toward the tree at the base moving the gripping bar up a few inches. This de-embeds the gripping bar from any growth and allows the stand to move as the tree sways in the wind. Before the season, I carefully climb back up and tighten the ratchet straps. This technique allows me to keep the stand in place from year to year.

One of my partners was in his 80s and had knee replacements. My elevated box blinds worked well to extend his hunting opportunity as even stairs were a struggle for him. I began to think about extending my own hunting opportunities after even ladder stands become difficult. I decided to build and try out an elevated box blind for myself: http://www.habitat-talk.com/index.php?threads/foodplot-stand-transfered-from-the-qdma-forum.5529/. It is 6x6. It is large enough that I can comfortably use a compound, crossbow, muzzleloader, or firearm from it. I sat in 4x4 boxes and found them much too small for me (I'm not a small guy). That particular stand uses an old ladder stand for entry. I did that to keep cost down, but my others all have stairs. I'd probably add stairs for future stands for aging.

I'm now finding myself hunting these box blinds more and more. Because of their locations, I see more deer during archery season (fewer shooter bucks) but fewer deer in archery shooting range (30 yards with a crossbow and 20 with a compound). I find I hunt more with them. Even in a comfortable treestand 3-4 hours is my limit, but I can hunt all day if I want in these box blinds. You will notice the one above has a urinal so I can relieve myself without exposure.

Things change as we get older. Either we find ways to accommodate our limitations, or we lose our passion for hunting and it becomes more talking about the old days. I'm not ready for the latter yet!

Thanks,

Jack
I went online looking for parts to make this even easier. I first found this: Knape & Vogt 208 Extra Heavy Duty Ultimate L-Bracket, 22 in L x 1-3/16 in W x 21.4 in D, White It says a pair will hold 1,000 pounds on a shelf. So, I'm figuring one can support 500 lbs from a single bracket which is more than it will need to lift for a ladderstand. It is only 3 lbs. While not as heavy duty as the contraption I made, it should be much easier to strap to the tree. I think I paid about $15 for it to my door through the walmart store.

The next item is a hand winch. It got this one from harbor freight: https://www.harborfreight.com/manual-strap-winch-95541.html. It is really overkill at 900lbs. Northern tool has a 600 lbs winch but it uses wire rope and I like straps. The strap on this is 20 foot. I plan to mount the winch on a short piece of 2x4 that I can attach to the tree with straps. I figure if I attach it at chest height, I'll have more than enough distance to lift any stand. I put a prussic knot in the existing rope and should be able to easily slide it to whatever position I need. With the typical 20% off HF coupon it ran me about $20.

I'll try to take some pictures next time I erect a ladder stand. I'm in the process of buying a homesite for retirement. It will be a few years until we build a house, so I bought a millennium stand for there. I have not yet assembled it but will soon. I'm expecting closing to occur in the next few weeks. That will give me an opportunity to test this out.

Thanks,

Jack

Wow Jack ... if I read all of the above, the deer hunting season would be over. :emoji_zipper_mouth::emoji_sleeping:
 
Wow Jack ... if I read all of the above, the deer hunting season would be over. :emoji_zipper_mouth::emoji_sleeping:

Short version:

Our approaches are similar, I'm just at a different stage of age/health/fitness than you. The rest of it you probably already know or won't care about for a few years. :)

Thanks,

Jack
 
I do have some spots that have produced well over the years but that's not why I don't understand the attraction to ladders.
Please don't take me wrong...I'm not ripping your guy's stand choice. To each his own. But in this thread, I've seen tractors, quads, pulleys, and multiple helpers to erect a ladder stand.
I'm usually a one man operation, sometimes a helper but I don't depend on one.
I want to be as versatile as possible. And no stand can compare to a lock-on for versatility. I can hide one in most any tree, at any height take advantage of cover or deer patterns. I can carry a stand, steps, and my bow all at one time. I can hang the stand and be in most trees within 20 minutes. My platform isn't large enough to square dance on, but it's plenty large enough to operate from. The larger the stand, the more a hunter moves around in it. I actually like a tiny platform. They hang in places where a larger platform can't fit.
A ladder is "X" feet...can't really go higher or lower without adding/subtracting sections.
It often cannot be tucked into multi-trunked trees or among branches.
Ladders are pretty hard to hide from the kind of hunters that like to hunt from other peoples stands.

For out of state hunts, I don't have to luxury of equipment to erect a 50 pound ladder and even if I did, I don't think landowners would always welcome running equipment/quads across their property. And I'm pretty sure that someone else would have hunted from it before I returned. Even if they didn't hunt out of it, they certainly walk over to check it out. I don't like that disturbance around my stands.

I'm not trying to talk you guys out of ladders and you won't talk me into one. Obviously enough hunters like them or there wouldn't be a market for them.

I hear you, and completely agree. While I do love my ladder stands for comfort, safety, and ease of entry and exit, I do have a fleet of Millenium Monster 150's that I absolutely love. Big and comfortable, and yes, they allow me flexibility.
 
I just put up a new ladder stand this past weekend by myself. I assembled it on the ground - (the last 2 ladder sections. I put the seat platform together at the cabin.) I then walked it up like you would a ladder so it was leaning on the tree. After setting the angle to the tree & putting my weight on the lowest rung to " set " the feet into the ground, I used the 2 " lifting " ropes that come with the stand to secure the stand to the tree. The lifting ropes are tied to the rear of the seat platform before lifting the stand. I just wrapped the ropes around the tree and tied them to rungs about 5 ft. off the ground. They have to be pulled tight. I set the adjustable ladder-stiffening bar between the ladder and the tree trunk & tied it fast. I went up the ladder, wrapped the strap of the ratchet around the tree & cinched it up tight. The stand was secure and tight. The whole process at the stand tree took about 1/2 hour with no other tools, ladders, or pulleys. I got the stand close to the location by hauling in the bed of my truck.

I've used this procedure many times at various locations. I WILL say it's easier with 2 people, but certainly not a hard job.
 
Can you further explain "walked it up like your would a ladder"? A picture of the treestand might help as well. I can envision that with some of the old 12' platform-only ladder stand I tried years ago, but the comfortable 21' stands I've been using are way to tall and top-heavy for a normal guy to lift.

Thanks,

Jack
 
I just put up a new ladder stand this past weekend by myself. I assembled it on the ground - (the last 2 ladder sections. I put the seat platform together at the cabin.) I then walked it up like you would a ladder so it was leaning on the tree. After setting the angle to the tree & putting my weight on the lowest rung to " set " the feet into the ground, I used the 2 " lifting " ropes that come with the stand to secure the stand to the tree. The lifting ropes are tied to the rear of the seat platform before lifting the stand. I just wrapped the ropes around the tree and tied them to rungs about 5 ft. off the ground. They have to be pulled tight. I set the adjustable ladder-stiffening bar between the ladder and the tree trunk & tied it fast. I went up the ladder, wrapped the strap of the ratchet around the tree & cinched it up tight. The stand was secure and tight. The whole process at the stand tree took about 1/2 hour with no other tools, ladders, or pulleys. I got the stand close to the location by hauling in the bed of my truck.

I've used this procedure many times at various locations. I WILL say it's easier with 2 people, but certainly not a hard job.

How tall of a ladder stand? I have ones that are double rail and 22' to the seat. Unless you are 8' tall with 6' arms you ... your fulcrum point will not be in balance.
 
My stand is 17 ft. to the seat. I use basic stands for archery hunting, so no rails, foot rests, or anything that flips up/down, etc. It's no problem to stand it up.

For Yoderjac - I position the base of the ladder roughly where I think it will give me a good angle to the tree. I then lift the top of the ladder stand and push it above my head. Then I just " walk " my hands up the rungs, one at a time, until the stand is vertical and then lean it against the tree. Simple. The next steps I already listed above.

I will say I don't use this method on sloping ground, where one leg would be lower than the other. I also pick trees that are big enough in diameter so the " V " section that grips the tree trunk is stable. I'm not suicidal. I've done this a number of times alone with no problems. I'd rather have 2 people, but sometimes it's not possible.
 
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