Sprays

I have a 5 gal stihl backpack fit herbicide and a 3 gal hand held for fruit.
 
I use the same sprayer for both and have never had any issues. I clean it well and remember the solution to pollution is dilution so I make sure I put tons of water through it to ensure its clean and I remove the filter and clean all the debris out of it. I use a 60 gallon PTO sprayer. I need big tank for both and don't want to buy 2 huge sprayers. Just have to be careful I follow the appleman plan pretty much which is captan and imidan. Captan for disease and Imidan for insects. I will hit with Sevin if the Imidan doesn't keep the the Japanese beetles under control. Its been very successful so far so I am sticking with it.
 
If I remember correctly from last season, Maya said that Sevin won't thin apples after they get to nickel size. So I used Sevin for caterpillars and Jap. beetles on a couple sprays thru the summer. It worked well on bugs. Most of our camp apples are DR varieties for deer, so I won't jump into a disease-spray regimen for them. We don't want to CREATE work for ourselves, or take on added expense for more chemicals / time. These won't be going to market !! I can see the need if apples are going to be sold - people like " pretty " apples.
 
correct Sevin wont thin fruit after a certain size
 
I've planted 60 trees in the last 2 years and have a bunch of mature wild trees. Have used the captan/Imidan approach the last 2 seasons.
Many of my trees get ravaged by CAR. I've struggled to find info regarding chemical CAR prevention. I've read that Spectracide Immunox (not Immunox plus, it's not fruit tree safe) is the best for treating CAR.... I'm skeptical.
Anybody have any thoughts/expirences with CAR prevention/treatment?
Thanks in advance.
Coop
 
No first hand experience with controlling CAR simply because I havent needed to. I have read enough second hand reports to conclude that Immunox does work for control, I would venture it is not necessarily the best. Most use it because it is not a RUP and is relatively inexpensive. The good thing about CAR is that it only needs to be controlled for a short window of time each spring.
 
I would try dormant oil spray which is done early to smother over wintering spores. All I have read says there is really no magic bullet for CAR so dormant oil and planting away from cedars and good clean areas around the tree (remove old dried leaves ) seem to be the best approach along with planting disease resistant varieties if you are in a rust prone area
 
Dormant oil also kills bugs , eggs, etc. doesn't it ?? Do you have to wet every surface on the tree to be effective ??
 
Yes it kills eggs. I think most bugs have not awaken yet but if they did it smothers them if in the tree. Just be careful what else you may spray with dormant oil. Since you are doing it when there are no leaves on tree it is easy to wet the whole tree. That will ensure you get all and not miss the eggs on the spots that didn't get covered
 
So you spray the oil when they are no where near bud break but yet its not 32 degrees either (at night?)
 
Yes in the month of March you should be able to find a few days of no overnight freezing temps. Make sure you read he label and you won't have any problems
 
I use the same sprayer for both and have never had any issues. I clean it well and remember the solution to pollution is dilution so I make sure I put tons of water through it to ensure its clean and I remove the filter and clean all the debris out of it. I use a 60 gallon PTO sprayer. I need big tank for both and don't want to buy 2 huge sprayers. Just have to be careful I follow the appleman plan pretty much which is captan and imidan. Captan for disease and Imidan for insects. I will hit with Sevin if the Imidan doesn't keep the the Japanese beetles under control. Its been very successful so far so I am sticking with it.
We use a broadcast sprayer for herbicides and other spraying ,, our cleanout goes like this fill half full add household bleach agitate let sit over night if possible , rinse thru booms then drain tank, refill plain water rinse thru booms , clean all screens drain tank .

Same way we wash orchard sprayer but do not use herbicides thru it as it a mist type sprayer , no fear properly cleaned you should have no problems.

We apply oil sprays as soon as practical warm sunny days , before any bud swell , easiest low impact spray of the year , you can eliminate a great portion of problems with early oil and gets things started with a cleaner slate
 
Thanks for the info Wooduck. It's always nice to hear from someone who makes a living out of this obsession we have lol
 
I use Rally 40WSP for cedar apple rust. Three cover sprays after petal drop and you have clean trees. It's also nice to break up your applications of Captan to hopefully prevent resistance.
 
Thanks for the info Wooduck. It's always nice to hear from someone who makes a living out of this obsession we have lol
I don't know about making a living maybe trying to is more appropriate , You guys have me intrigued about the many varieties you work with I can see the search for resistant apples drives you .
 
I use Rally 40WSP for cedar apple rust. Three cover sprays after petal drop and you have clean trees. It's also nice to break up your applications of Captan to hopefully prevent resistance.
We use rally later in the season to also break from Captan use , also some Flint as it is good for summer diseases,
 
In my case, Wooduck, my camp plants for deer primarily - with some eating a secondary thing. So DR trees and varieties are a way to limit fussing and hand-holding the trees. We still have to spray for bugs - tent cats., gypsy moth cats., and Jap. beetles are the biggest problems. Choosing DR varieties keeps extra work to a minimum. The deer - or us guys, actually - aren't that fussy when it comes to a few blemishes on the apples. So far, the crabs & apples we have gotten on the newer trees look really good. We've been lucky I guess - I hope it stays that way !!
 
I use Rally 40WSP for cedar apple rust. Three cover sprays after petal drop and you have clean trees. It's also nice to break up your applications of Captan to hopefully prevent resistance.
My neighbor uses Nova, which I think is the old form of Rally. He's had no trouble with diseases.
 
Yes in the month of March you should be able to find a few days of no overnight freezing temps. Make sure you read he label and you won't have any problems

What product do you use for the oil treatment?
 
Bonide has a 'superior' like dormant oil spray that is 98% where superior was labeled 99% mineral oil. Is this ok to use? I cannot find another supplier that sells anything like Superior.
 
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